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Old 03-27-2008, 10:46 PM   #6451
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ok thats what i was afraid of guess i will need to desolder them. Where can i get kits to solder them in the stick pack config?
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Old 03-27-2008, 11:06 PM   #6452
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Ummm I think you got your wires crossed there a bit.

The whole point of the Powertubes is that you DON'T have to solder anything!

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Old 03-28-2008, 12:13 AM   #6453
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what size are the pinion on the mini cooper? (mo3r)
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Old 03-28-2008, 12:32 AM   #6454
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16, 18 or 20 - (0.6 module pitch). But everyone uses the 20......
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Old 03-28-2008, 12:41 AM   #6455
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Thanks, I guess I worded that wrong now that I look back at it, but you did answer my intended question, what pitch are the pinions? Thanks.
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Old 03-28-2008, 03:59 PM   #6456
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Wooop, it's here....

Now have an Exige powered Mini, looking forward to trying out this weekend.
Also, as I'm enjoy my tweaking, purchased the plug-in setting card (pictured) to have a play with the settings. At about 15, worth it IMO

Now, just to get it on track...
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya mini cooper-dscf0027.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dscf0032.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dscf0033.jpg  
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Old 03-28-2008, 08:49 PM   #6457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Wooop, it's here....

Now have an Exige powered Mini, looking forward to trying out this weekend.
Also, as I'm enjoy my tweaking, purchased the plug-in setting card (pictured) to have a play with the settings. At about 15, worth it IMO

Now, just to get it on track...

There is 8 things you will need when running this car.

1. MO3 Spare Gear Parts - G
2. MO3 Spare Gear Parts - G
3. MO3 Spare Gear Parts - G
4. MO3 Spare Gear Parts - G
5. MO3 Spare Gear Parts - G
6. MO3 Spare Gear Parts - G
7. MO3 Spare Gear Parts - G
8. MO3 Spare Gear Parts - G
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Old 03-28-2008, 10:00 PM   #6458
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But isnt the exige system supposed to be similar to a sporttuned? Then surely it wouldnt be any harder on gears than normal?
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Old 03-28-2008, 10:18 PM   #6459
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Default Exige BL SYSTEM

Tryhard,

Good to see another person running this system.

The Exige system is harder on the universals and diff cups than the mini gears. I have been running the system for approx four months and I am still using the same MO3 gears.

The BL motor has more torque and harder acceleration so the universals and diff cups take a flogging. My CVD's are in need of replacing, due to the elongation of the holes. These have worn out quicker than when using the Tamiya sports tuned motor.

Later

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Old 03-29-2008, 12:10 AM   #6460
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Evening fellas, I have a question...... My wife just got a set of digital scales for the kitchen (and when she's not here, for my hobby room shhhhhhh). Just for laughs I decided to weigh my new M03-M Swift. With Battery installed it weighed in at 1256 grams. I don't race but was just curious about a couple of things. If you guys have a minimum weight to meet, that means with the battery installed, yes? What kind of weight requirement do you guys have with these or does it vary?

Mine is stock and has the rear bumper removed because I had one of those carbon braces from a old TL-01 LW chassis set. I don't have rear spoiler or mirrors attached. I have a MC230CR esc and a Airtronics micro rx. A 2400 Ni-MH battery. Does my 1256 grams sound about right? As I make modifications to the car I thought it would be interesting to note the weight of the option parts, etc. Admittedly I pushed for her to buy the scales (for my diet) which I will probably burn in hell for that, LOL
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Old 03-29-2008, 12:18 AM   #6461
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I had a couple of other questions about my M03-M swift I had been meaning to ask as well...

1. I had set my lower body clips on the posts in the position the manual suggested. However, when I did that the rear fender was way too low looking in the rear and I had to raise it a notch with the front clips in the manual suggested setting. Anyone else? I wondered if that was a typo or I had done something wrong. Never had that happen with a tamiya kit before. It just looked "jacked up in the front".

2. What is a good front toe setting for just general fun running around parking lots? If I remember correctly, having toe out in the front gives more steering to a point?? If that is so, I assume toe in would give less steering, but would it make it more stable like the rear toe-in?? Kinda confused....

Thanks
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Old 03-29-2008, 12:39 AM   #6462
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eric7,

1. On my swift I ran my body pins in the positions as shown in the instruction manual. however I do use pieces of foam on each body post. This raises the body a little and makes the body sit firmer on the car.

2. Setting for front toe out you normally run from zero to two degrees. The two degrees used when running 60D's. I know that I am running approx 0.5 to 1 degree. Do not run toe in on the front, full stop.

Later

Calvin.
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Old 03-29-2008, 12:51 AM   #6463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caltek1 View Post
eric7,

1. On my swift I ran my body pins in the positions as shown in the instruction manual. however I do use pieces of foam on each body post. This raises the body a little and makes the body sit firmer on the car.

2. Setting for front toe out you normally run from zero to two degrees. The two degrees used when running 60D's. I know that I am running approx 0.5 to 1 degree. Do not run toe in on the front, full stop.

Later

Calvin.
1. Thanks Calvin, I was just wondering as I thought it was strange, but I did use those Dan's mini mount body foam discs under the body in all 4 positions. I can't explain it, but anyway it sits level now so i guess that's all that matters. I'd like to lower it a little all the way around but running unprepped parking lots ground clearance can be your friend, LOL

2. With my car on the tile floor looking at it from above with battery in place and 3 ounce lead weight to simulate the body, it looks like my front toe is somewhere between dead zero and possibly 1/2 degree toe out at the max as it sits right now.
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Old 03-29-2008, 01:02 AM   #6464
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eric7,

Sounds like it is set up OK. If you need more steering when using the 60D's then increase the front toe out.

if you have enough steering and want to decrease the rear drag then change the rear hubs from the standard 2 degree rear hubs to either one or zero. The zero may make the car a little unstable. The one degrees work and do not reduce the steering.

Later

Calvin
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Old 03-29-2008, 01:06 AM   #6465
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Quote:
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eric7,

Sounds like it is set up OK. If you need more steering when using the 60D's then increase the front toe out.

if you have enough steering and want to decrease the rear drag then change the rear hubs from the standard 2 degree rear hubs to either one or zero. The zero may make the car a little unstable. The one degrees work and do not reduce the steering.

Later

Calvin
Thanks Calvin, I am using the kit tires. The 60D's are the optional tires from tamiya, correct?

Would you happen to have the part number for the 1 degree rear hubs?
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