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Old 02-04-2008, 12:16 AM   #6136
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Originally Posted by dragracer72nova View Post
How many guys are running their Mini with Lipo Power and the 1300 gram weight Limit. How much did your setup change?

If will be interesting to see how many Lipo'd powered mini's will be at next weeks TCS race at Trackside
Dave
Takes approx. 4.5 oz. of wt. to bring a Mini with an Orion 3200 up to 1300 grams. Most of us around here are running lipos and have been for the last 6 mos. to a year. With the addition of the extra wt. our set ups didn't change much if at all.
Add 4 oz to the battery which gives you .5 oz to add to the chassis. If your car is pushing add to the inside of the front bumper. If it's loose add it to the back.
If I were to bet, my money would be on the lipos if we took the newbies out of the equation.
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Old 02-04-2008, 12:17 AM   #6137
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Thumbs up MINI SETUP

G'day Barger,

I run a Mini here in Sydney, on a high traction track. I use TRF shocks with short white TRF springs front 50 Wt oil and two hole piston and run same shocks rear with short TRF blue springs with 40 Wt oil, two hole piston. I use the silver swaybar rear on the MO3R. I also use the 5mm internal spacer in all of the shocks and have a total lenght of 56mm.

I run 60D's (Type A's) with the hard tamiya foam insert and run spice 32R rear tyres with the same insert. I also run 1 to 2 degrees toe out front and the 1.5 degree rear MO3R rear uprights.

I have 4.5 to 5mm front ride height and 5 to 6mm rear ride height. Just check to make sure your ride height is not to low as only creates friction and other problems.

I have placed all my electronics in the rear of the chassis, however this is not really that important. I also use 4200 batteries which add more weight to the front.

I have found that Mini setup varies between drivers. I have found this works for me and from here I only tune with different springs and tyres.

When using the Orion 3200 lipo I added weight to the battery and didn't experience any traction roll problems.

Later

Calvin.

Last edited by caltek1; 02-17-2008 at 01:53 AM. Reason: grammer
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Old 02-04-2008, 12:26 AM   #6138
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Thanks Calvin
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Old 02-04-2008, 12:27 AM   #6139
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we dont normally jump our minis, but somebody put 2 out so people could jump walls, they were just little jumps... so if the jumps didint break my hubs, then hitting the wall did.
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Old 02-04-2008, 12:47 AM   #6140
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Talking DOUBLE PACKED 60D's

Ashley

I have found that when you double pack the Type A 60d tyres, they only last for three to four races before wearing through to the insert. I had double stuffed with the Xenon red insert,(soft) and Xenon green insert,(medium) with the Tamiya firm foam insert in different sets of tyres.

The Xenon inserts were not cut and placed into the tyre first with the foam between the rim and Xenon insert.

I now only stick to the single tamiya hard foam insert and put up with the high wear rate on the inner edge of the tyre.

It is just part of the joy's of running Mini.

Later

Calvin.
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Old 02-04-2008, 01:13 AM   #6141
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We are running A slicks..I have 2 inserts in the front..blue fr red rear springs kit oil...added 90gms with 3300lypo...I had trouble with traction rolling and also the steering seemed vague...are the kit servo savers any good...thinking of a kimbrough medium.
any setup tips appreciated
Leave the standard servo saver...its fine. Minis aren't as precise as Touring Cars, you'll get used to it. Other ones compromise the steering geometry and you'll start to break other things. The servo saver's the way it is for a reason..

You really need more weight for the lipos, around 120gm at least will do it.

And Type A's will wear on the inside, you can't really get around it. You can minimise is with careful ride height adjustment. If it's too low it'll be worse.
Some people like the double-stuffed, some don't, the bottom line is that like every other aspect of setup, we all find some things work for us, some don't.

Personally, I now just run standard 60D foam hard inserts all round now and only change sertup with springs. Makes tyre prep a lot easier. Instead of spending ages and ages trying every insert under the sun, just stick to one tyre/insert option and work everything else around that.

Mostly...just have fun. If you're forever chasing the perfect setup, you'll end up frustrated and lose the whole point of running Mini in the first place.
My shocks for instance, are out-of-the-box plastic Super Minis, built as per instructions, with the kit oil. And they're perfect...
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Old 02-04-2008, 02:10 AM   #6142
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Hey guys.

Had great fun my mini today. Finally sorted out it's shocks (borrowed my spare set of TRF's from my tourer), and was really good.

As the traction came up at the end of the day, started to loose a little steering. And as I was running a very sharp toothed 18 pinion, managed to strip the internal gears... opps.

But had fun, as the car was great fun to drive, and it didn't disgrace itself against the 4wd tourers I had a little fun with on track Was using my 416 in 10.5, so ran the mini in 27t... very amsuing harrying some big arse with my mini terrier...

Oh, and I'm loving my new Northcraft Skyline shell... I don't car that it's very scale, I just think it looks really , and a lot of fun!
And ain't that the whole point right?

Regards
Ed

P.s. Apologies for the some of the crappy pics... camera phone...
Spotted a few errors on teh setup sheet above.... Rear springs were Tam Short Red, and I was running a black front roll bar.... opps
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Old 02-04-2008, 09:22 PM   #6143
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G'day Barger,

I run a Mini here in Sydney, on a high traction track. I use TRF shocks with short TRF springs front 50 Wt oil and two hole piston and run same shocks rear with short TRF blue springs with 40 Wt oil, two hole piston. I use the silver swaybar rear on the MO3R. I also use the 5mm internal spacer in all of the shocks and have a total lenght of 56mm.

I run 60D's (Type A's) with the hard tamiya foam insert and run spice 32R rear tyres with the same insert. I also run 1 to 2 degrees toe out front and the 1.5 degree rear MO3R rear uprights.

I have 4.5 to 5mm front ride height and 5 to 6mm rear ride height. Just check to make sure your ride height is not to low as only creates friction and other problems.

I have placed all my electronics in the rear of the chassis, however this is not really that important. I also use 4200 batteries which add more weight to the front.

I have found that Mini setup varies between drivers. I have found this works for me and from here I only tune with different springs and tyres.

When using the Orion 3200 lipo I added weight to the battery and didn't experience any traction roll problems.

Later

Calvin.
With the 1.5 degree rear toe, is that total or each side?

I'm thinking its each side, as I can only find the toe ins that go in 1 degree increments (0,1,2,3 degrees)

thanks
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Old 02-04-2008, 09:32 PM   #6144
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1.5 each side. They are the rear carriers from the M03R
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Old 02-04-2008, 09:55 PM   #6145
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1.5 each side. They are the rear carriers from the M03R
got a part number?

I'm currently looking at the 0403404072215,EAGLE RACING,1680YEN,M03M-12/3/LB M-03M ALUMINUM REAR HUB CARRIER(3 DEGREE)

thanks

ashley
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Old 02-04-2008, 10:36 PM   #6146
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Ash, your Swift has 2 degree rears as standard...

If you want the M03R ones the part number is 49442, but...I defy you to be able to tell the difference between 1.5 and 2.0 degree!
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Old 02-04-2008, 10:50 PM   #6147
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Ash, your Swift has 2 degree rears as standard...

If you want the M03R ones the part number is 49442, but...I defy you to be able to tell the difference between 1.5 and 2.0 degree!
Okay thank you very much for that
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Old 02-04-2008, 10:55 PM   #6148
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I defy you to be able to tell the difference between 1.5 and 2.0 degree!
That's not even a tough one. It is .5 degrees, or (2 X pi)/720 radians for the Trigonometers amonst us.
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Old 02-04-2008, 11:10 PM   #6149
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So you're good at maths but can't spell amongst eh Scotty?....
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Old 02-04-2008, 11:27 PM   #6150
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So you're good at maths but can't spell amongst eh Scotty?....
I can spell it fine...just can't type it to save my life
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