R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-24-2007, 11:12 PM   #5056
Tech Adept
 
minimanintaiwan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 160
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by larlee View Post
a touring insert(soft, med or hard?) on top of 60D hard inserts and squeeze into the tires? wow...isn't that a little too hard? how are you able to glue it?
soft inserts. its tricky and takes time getting at all in but gluing is the easiest part once you get it all perfectly snug.
minimanintaiwan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 11:45 AM   #5057
Tech Fanatic
 
Takt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 896
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

I've been told to put o-rings under the shock piston to set droop. Can someone tell me which o-rings to use?

Thanks
Takt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 11:52 AM   #5058
Tech Master
 
gibbous's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: SoCal
Posts: 903
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Takt View Post
I've been told to put o-rings under the shock piston to set droop. Can someone tell me which o-rings to use?

Thanks
I'm really bored at work, so I'll take a jab at this.

I don't think it matters. Use whatever you got so long as you get the desired droop. You could even use plastic spacers, but o-rings are usually pretty plentiful and they fit the shaft perfectly.
gibbous is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 12:09 PM   #5059
Tech Elite
 
OSherman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: o0O In the FishBowl O0o
Posts: 3,151
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbous View Post
I'm really bored at work, so I'll take a jab at this.

I don't think it matters. Use whatever you got so long as you get the desired droop. You could even use plastic spacers, but o-rings are usually pretty plentiful and they fit the shaft perfectly.


The real mystery is HOW MANY??
OSherman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 12:21 PM   #5060
Tech Master
 
Hawk6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Freeport, IL
Posts: 1,522
Trader Rating: 48 (100%+)
Default

I think I remember reading - maybe on rc-mini.net - that the center of mounting hole to center of mounting hole max length of the shock should be 56mm, down from 61mm -- so basically shorten the stock about 1/4" or a little less.
Hawk6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 02:25 PM   #5061
Tech Fanatic
 
Takt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 896
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Scott --

I have the plastic spacer on the shaft under the shock body as well. Should I run both the o-rings in the shock body AND teh plastic spacer under neath?

Thanks
Takt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 02:54 PM   #5062
Tech Champion
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 5,173
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Takt View Post
Scott --

I have the plastic spacer on the shaft under the shock body as well. Should I run both the o-rings in the shock body AND teh plastic spacer under neath?

Thanks
I've removed the plastic spacer completey, and now run two white o-rings, and a 1mm alloy spacer. Seems to give me plenty of drop, and a shock length ~57mm. I've got the spacer between the two o0rings as well, and this way I can (kinda) tune the droop a little, by using a bigger spacer if needed.

HiH
Ed
__________________
| THard.co.uk | Xray | Hobbywing |
TryHard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 02:59 PM   #5063
Tech Master
 
Hawk6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Freeport, IL
Posts: 1,522
Trader Rating: 48 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Takt View Post
Scott --

I have the plastic spacer on the shaft under the shock body as well. Should I run both the o-rings in the shock body AND teh plastic spacer under neath?

Thanks
I don't have a plastic spacer UNDER the shock body. When you put the spacer INSIDE the shock body on the shaft (either o-rings or plastic spacer) the shock will shorten so much I don't think you'll have room for anything on the outside other the the spring retainer on the bottom of the shock.

With the internal spacers (and the spring retainer on the shock), total shock travel is 1/4" or even less, I think.

By the way Tim, I think Derek and I are going to race at Trackside this Saturday to get some practice in before the big Mini Mayhem event there next weekend. Come on up and we can get things tuned up.
Hawk6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 03:28 PM   #5064
Tech Fanatic
 
Takt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 896
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Shoot ... can't on Saturday. I'm scheduled to officiate football. Dang, and I need some help with getting it setup.

I'll have to work on the droop deal. Thanks for the insight!
Takt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 03:39 PM   #5065
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Janesville, Wisconsin
Posts: 2,800
Trader Rating: 110 (100%+)
Default

Tim,
Are you going to race in the Big Mini Race next weekend?
Dave
__________________
Sponsors: YuK-Foo Tire Prep
dragracer72nova is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 07:27 PM   #5066
Tech Master
 
tamiyarcracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 1,634
Send a message via Yahoo to tamiyarcracer
Default

My input on the spacer issue.
I for a long timje used o-rings, what I noticed is that it was very inconsistant from shock to shock I found that the drrop would vary as much a 3mm from shock to shock, that was from o-ring age to type os material, how long it was in shock oil. and so on (I assumed)
So I went away from the o-rings and went to spacers, although a pain to adjust I found that I could be more precise, I then could set it exactly as I wanted. .1mm per corner adjustments.

With that said. the magic setting...... there is none.
I start with flat arms from side to side when unweighted (front and rear). Trying to use a straight edge to measure from arm to arm. Then I would adjust the limiting internal to the shock as I needed more or less droop for the track. One thing to keep in mind you need to keep the shocks on the corner of the car it was shimmed for. once I got the car where I liked it I noticed every corner had different spacing. But the good news once it is set up the first time you remove equal amounts from each side.

The other thing that this did was to adjust the droop to the weight in the chassis. What I mean is use the droop to correct the tweak. So for instance when I lift the front of the car I would make sure the tires came of the ground at the same time. I would balance the rear spring to keep the car flat and maintain the front droop equally. And doing the same for the rear as well.

It seems to make the car more consistant.

I know ramble ramble ramble. (sorry)
tamiyarcracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 08:11 PM   #5067
Tech Fanatic
 
Takt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 896
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dragracer72nova View Post
Tim,
Are you going to race in the Big Mini Race next weekend?
Dave
Yes, going to the Mayhem. Really looking forward to it. Racing your old car (I think). Any suggestions with it? Shocks are from an 04M I bought then realized that one series doesn't allow them, so Scott traded me.

Tamiyaracer - you have me confused on how to setup the droop with the spacers. The way I read it, you set up the shocks, then make minor adjustments in droop ... but without taking apart the shocks again, how do you make the minor adjustments? How do you "tweak" the droop to fix the tweak? I don't understand.
Takt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 08:27 PM   #5068
Tech Elite
 
andrewdoherty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ★Wylie, TX★
Posts: 3,763
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

setting tweak on a mini!?!
__________________
"Whether you think you can, or think you can't, you're right." -Henry Ford
"[Driving] Genius is 1% inspiration, and 99% perspiration" -T.A. Edison
|◤Hobbywing◢|◤SpeedzoneUSA.com◢|◤Pro-One◢|
|◤ReflexRacing.net◢|◤Protoform◢|◤AVID R/C◢|
andrewdoherty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2007, 08:30 PM   #5069
Tech Master
 
tamiyarcracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 1,634
Send a message via Yahoo to tamiyarcracer
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Takt View Post
Tamiyaracer - you have me confused on how to setup the droop with the spacers. The way I read it, you set up the shocks, then make minor adjustments in droop ... but without taking apart the shocks again, how do you make the minor adjustments? How do you "tweak" the droop to fix the tweak? I don't understand.
Well you have to rebuild the shock every time you adjust droop.

As for tweak:
it is hard to type easy to show.

But in a touing car what I find is that even though you measure your droop and set it exactly you will find if you lift the front slowly you will not get the front tires to lift off of the table at the same time (usually) When you set the droop to the table (Dave Jun method) or you measure from the bottom of the chassis, I always continued to have problems and what I notice (with some help) was that if a car is balanced and weighted properly it will raise of the table squarely. meaning the tires come off exactly at the same time. in a mini that is very difficult. remember it is a molded chassis.
what I also notice if you raise the fron you might notice the rear sink as the weight transfers, you might also notice that the car will also sink further in one real corner than the other. adjust the springs so the rear of the car stays flat, then the front stil won't come off at the same time unless you space each shock indivudually. I know it is confusing, and I wish I could show youin person, maybe I will get a video camera some day and I can show that way.

But what I'm trying to comunicate is as weight transfers in the molded car it doesn't really work well if everything is set the same. the molded chassis is not square. I use the smae method on a TA05 when I have a chassis that is warped, and noticed a night and day difference in performance, cause the car acts square to the track, not to a set up board.
tamiyarcracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2007, 04:29 AM   #5070
Tech Elite
 
rccardr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: The Secret Underground Laboratory
Posts: 2,353
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

You can also set tweak using the external spring preload spacer (or ring on a TRF shock):
* Take out the motor and remove the pinion, then reinstall the motor (you need the motor in the car so it is in 'on track' condition). You also need the battery in the car.
* Put the car on a truly flat surface (plate glass or setup board)
* Put a nickel slightly toward the front on the top of each front wheel and slowly lift the front of the chassis at the centerpoint (where the two chassis halves come together) with an X-Acto knife.
* The nickels should both roll foward at the same time. If not, add a thin spacer (or move the ring downward slightly) on the rear wheel OPPOSITE the front wheel that needs to roll sooner. NOTE: This will only work if you have some diff action. Those who run with a spool type front end need to figure out some other way to do this.
* Once you have the fronts rolling forward at the same time, do the same for the back wheels.
__________________
I've never lost.
I've just been a little bit behind when time ran out...

RED DOT MOTORS- Fastest Titan 12T and silver can 540 motors in the known galaxy!
rccardr is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Tamiya Mini Cooper M-03L Hop-ups mini71 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 4 05-04-2016 11:07 AM
Tamiya Mini Cooper mach51 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 10 09-02-2011 12:08 AM
FS:TAMIYA Mini Cooper, TA 04S rthmotorsports R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 4 10-20-2007 09:37 PM
Tamiya 415 MSX and M03 Mini Cooper F/S Racer X79 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 14 12-22-2006 07:38 AM
Tamiya M01,02,03, or 04 Mini Cooper ccugolf.com R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 2 12-05-2004 08:55 PM


Tags
m03, m03r ules, m05, mini, tamiya


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (0 members and 3 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:23 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0