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Old 08-24-2007, 12:26 AM   #4861
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Originally Posted by sportsracer-5 View Post
So you can get off tires that are glued to the wheels by boiling them, eh? About how long does it take?

I have some HPI X radials that are just fine, but the wheels are beat to crap. I'd like to get as much life out of these rare tires as possible.

The tires aren't damaged during the boiling, are they?
I used the boiling method to swap some 60D Type As swapped around. I boiled the water in a pot on the stove, then put the rim/tyre into the water, and boiled it for another 2 minutes. The tyre came off very easily, and didn't seem to damage the rubber at all. I have done races on the same combo since, and had no noticeable after effects.
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Old 08-24-2007, 12:34 AM   #4862
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What boiling does is allows us to take advantage of differential expansion between dis-similar materials. CA glues have little shear strength/are very brittle bonds. When one material grows more rapidly than the other this bond is easily broken.

I first learned to break CA bonds by boiling with good ol' Matthauser brake pads on my mountain bikes. We went through pads (and rims ) very quickly in the ever-present Western Washington mud. The Matthauser pads were replaceable on the aluminum backing.
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Old 08-24-2007, 10:54 AM   #4863
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Ok Guys, I just finished my Swift, I must say it is a big improvement over the M01 that I owned before. I'm still not done adding all the Aluminum parts, but for now its all done. I'll be testing this weekend, so we'll see how well the 13.5 brushless works. Looks to have plenty of tourque from the runs in the house, but we'll see how we do out in the real world...
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Old 08-24-2007, 02:34 PM   #4864
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Big_Dawg- lookin' good! is that a tamiya body?
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Old 08-24-2007, 02:37 PM   #4865
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uhhh, never mind... i just checked out tamiya's site.
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Old 08-24-2007, 04:32 PM   #4866
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Default Tire boil!

Ive been boiling tyres for years to re use rims and such. The one thing I have to add is...your results may vary! Depending on the glue, rim, and tyre. Ive managed to come up with some bad results. Ive warped sedan rims from a boil and Ive also found s few types of glue that seem to have a stronger bond, so the tyre ends up getting destroyed in the removal process. The best results Ive had were Tamiya rims with losi tyre glue. The glue hold up well and the tyres don't walk off the rims, even on carpet races, and the Tamiya rims seem to hold up to numerous trips to the stovetop. After a quick boil the glue lets go, Ive even used boiling to change inserts on a set of tyres after finding out a better combination from a freind.

Does pigment affect the plastic? Yes it does, ask anyone who works with plastic molding and they will tell you how different colors can affect the strength of a plastic. Simply put I wasnt surprised to hear some people having issues with the Clear shocks on the Mini type R.
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Old 08-24-2007, 11:25 PM   #4867
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I technique that I have been using for awhile that works very very well but can be time consuming is as follows.

I use the back of a very sharp xxato blade and keep scoring around the rim at the beed. a dental pick (the one used to scrape off plaque) would also work very well. You just keep scraping around the tire and rim to remove the dried glue. I have saved many tires with this technique. Nothing is worse than mounting a new set of tires and then crack a rim on the first run. It is worth the time to save the rubber tire. You just need to be careful not to slip and slice the tire.

Boiling has never worked for me, all I ever get when I try to boil a tire is a burn.
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Old 08-25-2007, 04:02 AM   #4868
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what is this? the cooking thread? next you'll be microwaving them! hey there's an idea
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Old 08-25-2007, 11:48 AM   #4869
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Totally off topic, but I've been running the Orion 3200 lipo lately. No trouble getting it to fit as you all know, but the car handled different. It became alittle more "tippy", would hook some of the tighter corners and my lap times were .5 to .7 seconds slower, even tough the car appeared as fast down the straight away. The lap timer is always on where I run. Great for evaluating changes. I put 2 oz. of tire wts on the bottom and centered the wt. It's tempting to put on more, but not extending the wt. to the end of the battery cut down on the "tippiness" as the wt is more centered. Also went one step stiffer on the springs all around, soft sway bar in the back, removed the front sway bar. End result was an improvement of 1 second per lap. These are computer timed laps. Please remember, this results are for an indoor, high traction,asphalt track. Now that HPI belted x-patterns are no longer available, I've been playing around with other tires to see what might work. I'll post those if any one is interested.
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Old 08-25-2007, 05:15 PM   #4870
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Smile TYRE TESTING RESULTS

G'day Granpa,

I'm interested in your tyre testing results. I have been running the Type A 60D's with just the black sponge insert on the front and Pits on the rear. This works well in Aus, however the Pits are now hard to buy. The only downside with this is the 60D's wear out quickly on the inside diameter of the tyre.

My mate has been experimenting with the same tyres and he reckons the Sorex C soft insert,(not shortened) with a black sponge stuffed in is great on the rear and he is running a blue HPI mini insert with with the black sponge stuffed into the front. I tried his car with these tyres last night and it felt planted.

I will add his car is the MO3R with TRF shocks.

Hope you can share some info.

Thanks

Calvin.
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Old 08-25-2007, 08:43 PM   #4871
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please remember---indoor, high grip, asphalt track. If HPI X-patterns rule where you race this may be of some interest. I've tried the Spice, ABC, and the Rp30's and found them unuseable where I race. They seem to work with the ABC genetic, but flip my MO3's quicker than I can blink. The Ride slicks are the only other tires that have found that are as fast or faster than the HPI's. In my hands, they are .3 quicker. I'm using the Ride #3030 slicks with a Spice soft 5.5 mm insert. When new, I almost threw them out, but they came in nicely. I did have to radically rethink my set up, but hat will vary from track to track. Saved the best for last. After over 50 runs, they show very little wear. Hope this helps.
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Old 08-25-2007, 10:20 PM   #4872
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Quote:
Which model of Mini-Z does that fit? I have a Mini Z in a box gathering dust, and that sounds like a nice shell.
It's for the MR-015HM - I've got an MR-02MM, so I can't run it, but it's looks too good to run anyway - it'll just be for display.
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Old 08-26-2007, 04:38 AM   #4873
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Carbon Paint..

I think I get asked at least twice every week how I do this effect. And yet it's really, really easy and looks super-cool. Click here and see just how its done..

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Old 08-26-2007, 08:57 AM   #4874
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I went to my LHS and made a great find. They had a set of HPI X pattern belted & Non belted. I wasn't really looking for them, but I remembered that once and a while the'll have stuff that you just cant get anymore! Now I just have to find me some rims to mount them on
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Old 08-26-2007, 09:01 AM   #4875
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I used that exact same method back a couple of years ago on a touring car, came out great and people seam to love that carbon fiber look. I might have to do it again...
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