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Old 07-29-2007, 01:17 AM   #4561
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As per instructions.... it doesn't really make any difference anyway.
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Old 07-29-2007, 09:41 AM   #4562
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anyone have info on the eagle racing speed tuned gearset for m3 chassis? im using it in club racing so tcs rules dont matter.do you still use stock pinion?is it still metric gearcut?if the main gear is smaller where do you set the 20t pinion for mesh?any info on older mabuchi mtr with 4 vent holes is it faster than the current one?
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Old 07-29-2007, 06:57 PM   #4563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorhead68 View Post
anyone have info on the eagle racing speed tuned gearset for m3 chassis? im using it in club racing so tcs rules dont matter.do you still use stock pinion?is it still metric gearcut?if the main gear is smaller where do you set the 20t pinion for mesh?any info on older mabuchi mtr with 4 vent holes is it faster than the current one?
From reading the info about aftermarket gearing on www.rc-mini.net - it looks like aftermarket gearing isn't that good and are poorer quality than the Tamiya gearing. You might as well stick with the Tamiya gearset.
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Old 07-29-2007, 08:11 PM   #4564
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what kind of ball cups/turnbuckle ends are you guys running? I am contiually snapping them off. I know that the answer is to stay off the pipes, and for the most part I do, but it doesn't take but one clean smack to snap one off.

Also, I will be replacing my second chasis this week due to the servo mount breaking on my m03. Is this because I have too much throw in the servo? I am using the white tamiya servo saver, should I switch that up to avoid this issue? please help as I have been fast with this car in the past but can't get this figured out. We are running a points series and I need to be able to finish!!!
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Old 07-29-2007, 09:05 PM   #4565
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what kind of ball cups/turnbuckle ends are you guys running? I am contiually snapping them off. I know that the answer is to stay off the pipes, and for the most part I do, but it doesn't take but one clean smack to snap one off.

Also, I will be replacing my second chasis this week due to the servo mount breaking on my m03. Is this because I have too much throw in the servo? I am using the white tamiya servo saver, should I switch that up to avoid this issue? please help as I have been fast with this car in the past but can't get this figured out. We are running a points series and I need to be able to finish!!!
Try the X-ray TC ones. They don't break, they are a real hassle to get on and off, though. Switch to a Kimbrough # 124 Servo saver and redrill the holes for the ball closer together. put a 2.5 to 3 mm on your servo mount to space the servo lower.You won't break any more chassis( I'm assuming you mean the right side) if you mount the servo mount with 3x20mm machine screw and place a nut on the end.
I need to add that I don't use much servo throw, so did not have any probs with the KB servo saver
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Old 07-29-2007, 09:16 PM   #4566
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Forgot--- tap the hole for the 3x20 machine screw. It hasn't happened to anyone here yet, but I wouldn't want you to be the guy who splits the chassis putting that screw in
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Old 07-29-2007, 10:39 PM   #4567
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Haha.^^

I want to try this Kimbrough saver idea, I really need something else.
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Old 07-29-2007, 11:52 PM   #4568
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Me and a bunch of the guys that I "bash/race" minis with all run the kimbrough large servo saver. I say race/bash because we all stay on teh stand after our race and play destruction derby with our cars till the director tells us to get down for the next race or we run out of battery. We will run at each other at full bore down the straight and hit at full speed head on sometimes. Ive even seen a couple knucles break, but no balls popping off!

I have a JR z590 servo in my MO3M aSwift and replaced the stock servo mounts with a pair of xray aluminum deals from my T2. I was able to space the servo down like granpa suggested using 3 1.5 mm xray shims (total of 4.5 mm down) I used standard TC metric screws (2.5 or 3 mm or whatever fits in the xray servo posts). I am using the lowest and farthest apart holes inteh servo saver and installed standard AE ball studs in those holes. I am using the regular cheapo AE ball cups on the inside of each turnbuckle (another anodized blue AE part that I don't know the part # of . . .sorry) and am using 4-40 dubro ends on the rear-most hole on the steering knuckle. I have shimmed the dubro hardware on teh knuckle up about 6 mm or soething like that to reduce the bump steer.

I have not once popped a ball cup off with this set up. Hope that helps. Lemme know if you kneed pics or something.
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Old 07-30-2007, 12:08 AM   #4569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorhead68 View Post
anyone have info on the eagle racing speed tuned gearset for m3 chassis? im using it in club racing so tcs rules dont matter.do you still use stock pinion?is it still metric gearcut?if the main gear is smaller where do you set the 20t pinion for mesh?any info on older mabuchi mtr with 4 vent holes is it faster than the current one?
I read rc-mini's article, and still tried the Eagle set Guess what? They know there stuff. Waste of money. Not as durable, no performance gains.
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Old 07-30-2007, 12:14 AM   #4570
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We also say that the stock servo saver is best too...

Why? Because stronger ones just transfer the load elsewhere and something else lets go.. i.e chassis, servo mounts, servo gears etc. Are we starting to get the picture here?

Solution, run the stock one and/or stop hitting things.
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Old 07-30-2007, 12:18 AM   #4571
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I've never had my universals pop out of my joints. I've crashed very hard also and never had a problem like that. I've also raced the stock servo saver and never broken one yet. I was thinking of putting my black Tamiya servo saver in it but it won't help me at all will it?
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Old 07-30-2007, 12:55 AM   #4572
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One of these Minis is an M03 (hint - its NOT the left hand one) to find out more about the other one click here.

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Old 07-30-2007, 05:01 AM   #4573
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Originally Posted by minijosh View Post
I've never had my universals pop out of my joints. I've crashed very hard also and never had a problem like that. I've also raced the stock servo saver and never broken one yet. I was thinking of putting my black Tamiya servo saver in it but it won't help me at all will it?
The Tamiya servo savers get too much slop. The Kimboroughs are the ones to go for
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Old 07-30-2007, 06:57 AM   #4574
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
Try the X-ray TC ones. They don't break, they are a real hassle to get on and off, though. Switch to a Kimbrough # 124 Servo saver and redrill the holes for the ball closer together. put a 2.5 to 3 mm on your servo mount to space the servo lower.You won't break any more chassis( I'm assuming you mean the right side) if you mount the servo mount with 3x20mm machine screw and place a nut on the end.
I need to add that I don't use much servo throw, so did not have any probs with the KB servo saver


Well it is the left side that keeps breaking, As tony said...quit hitting stuff...but I am such a natural at that!!!! I have been using X-ray ends with a steel pivot ball and they just keep snapping, I may try using a standard ball cup if I can't get this straightened out.

Part of the problem might be that I bought this car used so I don't have all of the original parts of the kit. I am sure there are modifications that have been made that I am not aware of that are leading to this.
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Old 07-30-2007, 09:58 AM   #4575
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Well it is the left side that keeps breaking, As tony said...quit hitting stuff...but I am such a natural at that!!!! I have been using X-ray ends with a steel pivot ball and they just keep snapping, I may try using a standard ball cup if I can't get this straightened out.

Part of the problem might be that I bought this car used so I don't have all of the original parts of the kit. I am sure there are modifications that have been made that I am not aware of that are leading to this.
Sorry---assumed it was the rt side where the servo mount bolts to the chassis. If you break the X-ray ends, you might as well use the Tamiya ball cups as they have very little play and will pop off before they break. Also, I assumed you were running a silvercan. If you're running a 27 turn stock or hotter, all bets are off as you'll break stuff that isn't even on the car.
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