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Old 06-15-2007, 07:07 PM   #4321
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I ran a locked stock diff in my M03M at our last race. It worked o.k. but it was a smallish track so my tires really suffered! On a bigger flowing track it might work better.

The other bad thing about running it is that it is not TCS legal I believe? We loosely follow TCS rules so for us it was o.k. to run.

To adjust the ball diff you still need to take the car apart to adjust it. I think for the most part you would just build it and have it set how you want it (pretty much as tight as possible) and install it so you won't have to worry about adjusting it later?
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Old 06-15-2007, 07:07 PM   #4322
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Originally Posted by tamiyarcracer View Post
The Tamiya Track is closing...
Huh? After Socal and Hotbox closing, I just bought a TA05R hoping I could run at the last track near me (Mission Viejo). When is Tamiya closing the track? Anyone want to buy a brand new, never run TA05R with a C5R body?

More importantly, how are manufacturers going to sell cars if there is nowhere to drive them? With all the manufacturers in OC, I can't believe they haven't gotten together and opened a facility. What am I missing here?

Am I going to have to take up golf instead?
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Old 06-15-2007, 07:19 PM   #4323
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Originally Posted by lucybluemoon View Post
question about lube and diffs:

tony, you seem to have some definite opinions about how to lube your gears and diffs.
i notice you say to not use the AW grease as it locks up the diff (another no no apparently...) but to use very light amount of silicone rather. can you say why this is and how it really effects the performance? why is locking a diff frowned upon?

and when all assembled with no motor attached, should the wheel (and the whole gear box) really spin freely for 20 seconds as some say????? that seems crazy smooth, the likes of which i have never seen.

and ball diffs: are these adjustable like on other cars from the outside? or does one still have to disassemble the whole chassis?

thanks....
Lucy. my opinions (well as stated on our site anyway) are based on the rules we run here in Australia.

Tamiya recommend using AW grease (in the M03R instructions) and while it works, it does leak out when it heats up so thats why we're not keen on it.

As for diff locking, well it doesnt fit within our rules (or TCS) so it's out. We'd much prefer that everyone just runs normal ball or gear diffs. Level playing field (sorta) then. And isn't that the essence of Mini anyway? In most places diff locking isn't legal - simple as that.

I've had the same ball diff in my car for over 12 months. Adjusted it once (tight) and haven't touched it since...

As for the transmissions, don't worry too much about it. Stating a spin time isnt relevant. There are so many factors involved...

Remember, its just Mini, its supposed to be fun. Sometimes people get too caught up in things and forget that.
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Old 06-15-2007, 08:04 PM   #4324
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Originally Posted by tony gray View Post

As for the transmissions, don't worry too much about it. Stating a spin time isnt relevant. There are so many factors involved...

Remember, its just Mini, its supposed to be fun. Sometimes people get too caught up in things and forget that.
could this be aimed at a local Omaha Mini fanatic?
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Old 06-15-2007, 08:46 PM   #4325
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As they say..."If the foo shits..." or something like that
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Old 06-16-2007, 12:41 AM   #4326
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Default Hey Lucy! It's Dave.

Lucy (heh heh heh)- If you want them, I have a two white 5-spoke HPI wheels and 2 HPI belted radial tires. You can run your mini with mismatching front and rear wheels like a drift car!
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Old 06-16-2007, 09:16 AM   #4327
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could this be aimed at a local Omaha Mini fanatic?
I believe everything I read on the internet.... don't you???
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Old 06-17-2007, 06:19 AM   #4328
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Default wheel stuttering

problem:

maiden run of m03r. mostly fine, but i find that on full turns at near full throttle, the front wheels stutter and make audible shaking noises. upon inspection i find no rubbing or binding that i can see. i take the wheels off and run at full throttle with turns and it seems completely smooth with no stuttering whatsoever. i think even having one wheel off (no difference which one) removes the shaking. what could this be??
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Old 06-17-2007, 08:04 AM   #4329
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If you're running dogbones instead of universals, experiment a little with the thickness of the o-ring in the drive cup. I've found that there's a slight variation from part to part and it's sometimes necessary to thin out or thicken it- actually a small piece of firm foam or the little red foam thingie that goes on the top a TRF shock works well.
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Old 06-17-2007, 07:01 PM   #4330
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Fuel tubing does the trick on mine - and if you lose it, there is more of it in the pitbox to replace it with. I start it long, and just keep trimming til its right. Like rccardr said - they all end up different lengths
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Old 06-18-2007, 06:04 AM   #4331
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You need to be careful when packing the outdrives with orings/foam bits etc because it very easy to cause the suspension to bind up if you go to far.

When you put the packing (orings/foam/fuel tubing) remove the shocks and make sure the suspension can move freely through it's full travel without feeling it bind up or stiffen at any point.

Also move the suspension up and down while the steering is at full lock in either direction.

While the wheels are at full lock try spinning them by hand see if you can feel it bind at all.

Might be a case of trying to set the car up to turn as hard as needed without having to ever go to full lock.

tp
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Old 06-18-2007, 03:18 PM   #4332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony gray View Post
Lucy. my opinions (well as stated on our site anyway) are based on the rules we run here in Australia.

Tamiya recommend using AW grease (in the M03R instructions) and while it works, it does leak out when it heats up so thats why we're not keen on it.

As for diff locking, well it doesnt fit within our rules (or TCS) so it's out. We'd much prefer that everyone just runs normal ball or gear diffs. Level playing field (sorta) then. And isn't that the essence of Mini anyway? In most places diff locking isn't legal - simple as that.

I've had the same ball diff in my car for over 12 months. Adjusted it once (tight) and haven't touched it since...

As for the transmissions, don't worry too much about it. Stating a spin time isnt relevant. There are so many factors involved...

Remember, its just Mini, its supposed to be fun. Sometimes people get too caught up in things and forget that.
hey tony -

I took your sites advice on setup and managed to go from pipe banger to 2nd in the A main. Thanks for the help. I ran the basic setup with the 2 degree rears and still need a just a little more grip and I think I will be set...any suggestions???

I am running the M03M - everything else is set up per your site.....
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Old 06-18-2007, 05:53 PM   #4333
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Saw the ABC Genetic mini on the rc-mini web site and could not resist. Can't race it here, but It looks like fun runner. My Orion li-pos won't fit w/out doing some mods. Anyone have one and tried shoehorning a lipo in it. It looks like you'll have to space the top deck up a bit. Sort of new to mini's so something that may be obvious to the veterans is a complete mystery to me. I've had some great advice on some of my other questions, so HELP
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Old 06-18-2007, 07:57 PM   #4334
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Originally Posted by rcarmchl View Post
still need a just a little more grip and I think I will be set...any suggestions???

I am running the M03M - everything else is set up per your site.....
Our setup is really just a base setup, whch as you've seen in most instances works pretty well. Its hard for us to go much further because from here on in individual tracks and surfaces start to play a large part in the final setup.
Basically all we play with from our base setup is tires..we leave the rest as it is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
Saw the ABC Genetic mini on the rc-mini web site and could not resist. Can't race it here, but It looks like fun runner. My Orion li-pos won't fit w/out doing some mods. Anyone have one and tried shoehorning a lipo in it.other questions, so HELP
An Orion Carbon lipo goes in without much trouble... If you've got the big square ones though you may struggle. I doubt you'll find someone thats done it, you're probably in uncharted waters with this one!
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Old 06-19-2007, 07:35 AM   #4335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony gray View Post
Our setup is really just a base setup, whch as you've seen in most instances works pretty well. Its hard for us to go much further because from here on in individual tracks and surfaces start to play a large part in the final setup.
Basically all we play with from our base setup is tires..we leave the rest as it is.
Well thanks for the intial help. One other question though....on a FWD Mini what is the general effect of softening the rear suspension?
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