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Old 05-04-2007, 07:17 PM   #3946
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Originally Posted by minidriver
OK folks, just trying to gauge interest here, but ....

My home track, S&N Trackside, had a "Rubber Tire Stock Nationals" race here a few weeks ago. Unique format, with three qualifiers, then the top 32 qualifiers have 6 races of heads up racing, best four races count by finishing order - two day Sat/Sun event. Those top 32 are randomly assigned to their 6 heads up, on the tone, races - you race with a variety of people, all heads up. Those who don't make the top 32 go to a an "open" class of standard triple A, double B format, C and lower format. You wind up with two champions - the "expert 32" champ and the "open" winner. One and only one class - stock rubber tired touring cars. CO27 motors and handout tires only. Lots of fun. Every one ends up with lots of racing: experts race 9 times, the "opens" have 7-8 runs each over the weekend of racing.

As I was there participating and watching the action, I thought - hey maybe this format would work for a BIG Mini only race. Mini's are the most popular TCS class by far. My thought is: Have this format race in very late fall, early winter, in that awful down time between TCS Nationals in August and before TCS officially starts in February/March, when all the TCS guys are just itching to get started on a new season. Heck, maybe we could try and hold it at about the same time the TCS Nationals winner is enjoying his trip to Japan. Mini only event - any version M03, or M04M, running 60D series Tamiya tires. Touring cars need not apply!

How many people might be interested in coming up to Milwaukee to do this? If we could get a promised turnout of greater than 60 (like Memphis TCS did with their minis this past weekend) we might be able to make this happen. Great facility, the best announcer/host in RC - Scotty Ernst. TCS rules would apply. There would be a common grab box of new motors for the event, and you would use one motor one round, then eveyone puts the motors back in the box and grabs blind again for the next round, and so on. This grab box approach means you would not be facing that 1 in 100 super motor that some guys are able to find - level motor playing field. Moderate entry fee. Bring (or preferably buy here - support your local hobby shop/raceway) your own choice of tires, NIMH batteries.

Please let me know if you would like to see this happen and would attend.

(This subject was originally posted in the TCS Racing thread just a couple of days ago, but I looking to guage interest from all Tamiya Mini drivers, so have repeated it here. I hope no one is offended by the cross posting. We already have a number of replies in the TCS Racing Thread, so see what others are already thinking.)
count me in + 1 or 2 more 100%
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Old 05-04-2007, 08:15 PM   #3947
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Rod Mitchell touched base with me today and says to count him in as well. That really means something- guy doesn't travel too often just to race.
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Old 05-04-2007, 08:40 PM   #3948
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How many days wouldthe race be?
I would be interested!
Dave
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Old 05-04-2007, 09:03 PM   #3949
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragracer72nova
How many days wouldthe race be?
I would be interested!
Dave
We would use the same format & schedule as Stock Rubber Nationals.

Saturday - am practice. Start with three rounds of qualifying around 11am - noon. Then determine the top 32. Top 32 race then race the first two of six heads up competition, and the remainder do another round (maybe 2) of qualifying.

Sunday - Run the four remaining heads up rounds, with the Triple A's and lower mains running in between betwen those rounds. Plan on a fairly early start on Sunday (8:30 am or so) so we can get everyone out of there, awards and all, before 4 or 5 at the very latest.
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Old 05-04-2007, 10:52 PM   #3950
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xanavi_R34
guys, can anyone tell me what's wrong with my kit? I have this m03R, and there is this sound (when you turn, "not steer ha", the front wheels without the motor), it's like there's a stone that is trap inside the gear box but I cleaned and checked it, there is no problem or any, I've also checked the axles, dogbones, outdrive, etc, there is also nothing... what could have been causing the annoying sound?

this just happened when I tried it to run on the dirt (rally)... but before that, I don't hear anything, it just so happens when I tried running it on the dirt...
My guess is its the servo. My brother had the same issue with his. I replaced the servo and it's fine now.

As for the big event, sounds like a ton of fun! Its times like this I hate living in GA... Who knows, maybe i'll win the lottery and be able to make it
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Old 05-04-2007, 11:47 PM   #3951
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please ignore this... 2x post...
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Old 05-05-2007, 06:53 AM   #3952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K_Spec_RC
My guess is its the servo. My brother had the same issue with his. I replaced the servo and it's fine now.
but sir the servo is new... but will try removing it for awhile and see if it will still going to make the annoying sound

thanks...
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Old 05-05-2007, 07:07 AM   #3953
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guys... i'm from indonesia n i'm new in this rc things, now i'm using tamiya M chassis. i have problems to keep my batteries (NiMh) at optimal performance, is there any way to take care those batteries before n after being used? i mean when i have to charge n discharge them?

thank you for the help.....
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Old 05-05-2007, 08:28 AM   #3954
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So it's when the steering is at full lock in one direction or the other? Do you have universals or the stock dog bones? I would think if you have dog bones that it's the joint being overextended....to much throw, or maybe the o-rings that should be inbetween the dogbone and the diff outdrives are not there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xanavi_R34
but sir the servo is new... but will try removing it for awhile and see if it will still going to make the annoying sound

thanks...
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Old 05-05-2007, 09:07 AM   #3955
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lambatz
guys... i'm from indonesia n i'm new in this rc things, now i'm using tamiya M chassis. i have problems to keep my batteries (NiMh) at optimal performance, is there any way to take care those batteries before n after being used? i mean when i have to charge n discharge them?

thank you for the help.....
If you use the NiMH every week;
After every race or use discharge them to .9v a cell or 5.4v (.9v X 6 cells = 5.4v) for the pack.

If you don't use them 3 weeks or longer;
Fully charge them for longer periods of time.
If you use them again charge and discharge at 20 amps to 5.4v two or three times and you should be good to go. With NiMH make sure they rest for 1/2 hour or more between charges or cycles. If you use a fan only cool them when you are discharging.
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Old 05-05-2007, 09:33 AM   #3956
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
count me in + 1 or 2 more 100%

I am down too..... getting my m03r very soon

no spec battery though

and even if we use our own motors too... the motor swap might be to much
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Old 05-05-2007, 10:51 AM   #3957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Ko
If you use the NiMH every week;
After every race or use discharge them to .9v a cell or 5.4v (.9v X 6 cells = 5.4v) for the pack.

If you don't use them 3 weeks or longer;
Fully charge them for longer periods of time.
If you use them again charge and discharge at 20 amps to 5.4v two or three times and you should be good to go. With NiMH make sure they rest for 1/2 hour or more between charges or cycles. If you use a fan only cool them when you are discharging.
Thank you for the information.

i have one more thing to ask, i'm using orion advanced charging system and it doesn't have cut off option (i can't setting up to stop at .9v) for discharging, is it automatically setting up it self when i choose battery profile from the menu?

thanks again
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Old 05-05-2007, 05:13 PM   #3958
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If anyone is looking I have a NIP BMW Cooper body set for $22 shipped in the lower 48.
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Old 05-05-2007, 05:47 PM   #3959
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Creations
So it's when the steering is at full lock in one direction or the other? Do you have universals or the stock dog bones? I would think if you have dog bones that it's the joint being overextended....to much throw, or maybe the o-rings that should be inbetween the dogbone and the diff outdrives are not there.
no sir, without steering the wheel in front... It makes a sound that it's like there is something stuck inside the gearbox... about the dogbones, I've already cured that problem, I've changed my dogbones to universal shafts... thanks anyway... One more thing, should I still put O-rings on the outdrive when using universals?
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Old 05-05-2007, 08:29 PM   #3960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lambatz
Thank you for the information.

i have one more thing to ask, i'm using orion advanced charging system and it doesn't have cut off option (i can't setting up to stop at .9v) for discharging, is it automatically setting up it self when i choose battery profile from the menu?

thanks again
I am not up on that system. You can always verify with a voltmeter to see what where it cuts out on discharge.

Integy makes a stand alone discharger with fan reactor 20 or 30 amps. If you take it apart there is a adjustment dial where through trial and error you can get it down to .9v a cell. I actuall drilled a hole in the front for easy access...

That is a cheap ebay option if the Orion does not work out. You probably could email Team Orion or goto their website once they get it back online.
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