Tamiya mini cooper
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Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (45)
Probably covered a few times. But i'll ask. Trying to convert my m05 to the version 2 chassis, do i need to get the aluminum motor mount to go with the new chassis or can i use my original plastic mount? Also do i have to change the rear chassis pieces aswell? Or can i use my originals? Thanks
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
Probably covered a few times. But i'll ask. Trying to convert my m05 to the version 2 chassis, do i need to get the aluminum motor mount to go with the new chassis or can i use my original plastic mount? Also do i have to change the rear chassis pieces aswell? Or can i use my originals? Thanks
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Probably covered a few times. But i'll ask. Trying to convert my m05 to the version 2 chassis, do i need to get the aluminum motor mount to go with the new chassis or can i use my original plastic mount? Also do i have to change the rear chassis pieces aswell? Or can i use my originals? Thanks
Probably covered a few times. But i'll ask. Trying to convert my m05 to the version 2 chassis, do i need to get the aluminum motor mount to go with the new chassis or can i use my original plastic mount? Also do i have to change the rear chassis pieces aswell? Or can i use my originals? Thanks
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Who can tell me a decent starting setup for carpet, on a M05?
I have the stock wheels and tires, CVA Super Mini shocks, on stock silver springs, yeah racing 2 deg rear uprights, yeah racing steering setup and axles. And I"m running at 17.5 speed passion motor with a 5000mah 2s pack in the ver.2 frame.
The current setup is the CVA stock springs, I have the 5mm wedges on the front, as that seemed to help transfer weight and reduce the rollover tendency. The rear wheels are at a 0deg camber. Front is using the stock links, and are at 0 deg camber. Ride height isn't "set" but is what the Super Mini CVA shocks allow for.
I'd like to have useful suspension travel, and I'd like to avoid rollovers on carpet.
I have ideas of what I should do... but here I am, asking for help. :-)
My thoughts are gluing the sidewalls of the front tires. Sealing and putting grease in the diff. Finding and installing the white springs. Getting swaybars so that I still have the stiff roll axis, without getting twitchy over "stuff" on the carpet.
I have the stock wheels and tires, CVA Super Mini shocks, on stock silver springs, yeah racing 2 deg rear uprights, yeah racing steering setup and axles. And I"m running at 17.5 speed passion motor with a 5000mah 2s pack in the ver.2 frame.
The current setup is the CVA stock springs, I have the 5mm wedges on the front, as that seemed to help transfer weight and reduce the rollover tendency. The rear wheels are at a 0deg camber. Front is using the stock links, and are at 0 deg camber. Ride height isn't "set" but is what the Super Mini CVA shocks allow for.
I'd like to have useful suspension travel, and I'd like to avoid rollovers on carpet.
I have ideas of what I should do... but here I am, asking for help. :-)
My thoughts are gluing the sidewalls of the front tires. Sealing and putting grease in the diff. Finding and installing the white springs. Getting swaybars so that I still have the stiff roll axis, without getting twitchy over "stuff" on the carpet.
This is my setup from last weekend, may give you some basis for a start.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (45)
So main question is then.... do i need to buy the v2 aluminum mount? I heard the offset or something was different but from your info it seems like its good to go? Thanks for your help, trying to keep costs low, its mini afterall 😛
I ran the plastic motor mount for a very long time using HPI Saturn 20 motors and had no problems. Aluminium is an improvement, no doubt, but I wouldn't say it was essential.
[QUOTE=marcos graveyar;14846244]This is my setup from last weekend, may give you some basis for a start.
Hi Marcos,
thanks for sharing! Interesting car you built there.
Do I get it right, that you use 55D inserts in the 60 D M-Grips?
And why you run spacers on the uprights, to compensate for bump steer maybe?
Many similarities I found to my setup like stiffer rear springs than front, and camber setup with the Tamiya tires. Never tried really the differnt rollcentre setup in rear back to back yet.
And to not involve the rebound thread: 1 Oring in the bladder front, none in rear? Thoughts?
And do you glue the sidewalls on front, involving the first tread pattern maybe?
A lot of questions, but really would like to know your experiences about the specialities...
Br,
Matthias
Hi Marcos,
thanks for sharing! Interesting car you built there.
Do I get it right, that you use 55D inserts in the 60 D M-Grips?
And why you run spacers on the uprights, to compensate for bump steer maybe?
Many similarities I found to my setup like stiffer rear springs than front, and camber setup with the Tamiya tires. Never tried really the differnt rollcentre setup in rear back to back yet.
And to not involve the rebound thread: 1 Oring in the bladder front, none in rear? Thoughts?
And do you glue the sidewalls on front, involving the first tread pattern maybe?
A lot of questions, but really would like to know your experiences about the specialities...
Br,
Matthias
Nice looking machine, marcos!!
Tech Regular
hi guys . im looking to buy an MX5 kit for local racing.we arent allowed to mod the car at all cept tires and pinion,
i cant seem to find many wheels around for reasonable prices..where do you get yours from? i see HPI wheels for sale in different offsets. Which offset is the correct one for the mx5 shell?
Is the MX5 shell a good shell or is something like the CRX better to get for the same money?
i
i cant seem to find many wheels around for reasonable prices..where do you get yours from? i see HPI wheels for sale in different offsets. Which offset is the correct one for the mx5 shell?
Is the MX5 shell a good shell or is something like the CRX better to get for the same money?
i
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
Finally cracked the shrink wrap last night on my kit that's been sitting around for a while. Here's where I got to:
I must say I'm not impressed with how much more slop the rear suspension has compared to my trusty old M03. And the steering rack... wow that's some crappy plastic. Almost snapped it in half screwing in the ball studs. I can see why everyone upgrades that straight away.
I must say I'm not impressed with how much more slop the rear suspension has compared to my trusty old M03. And the steering rack... wow that's some crappy plastic. Almost snapped it in half screwing in the ball studs. I can see why everyone upgrades that straight away.
[QUOTE=ruebiracer;14846424]
No, they are Spice inserts for 60D, the 55 refers to the thickness (5.5mm)
Yes, outers for bump steer, inners for ackerman.
I build the shocks with zero rebound when filled. The bladder will give somewhat during operation, the O ring lessens this, it's similar to adding 2mm rebound over the rear shock just a more easy and constant way to measure for me.
I only glue the sidewalls, no glue on the threaded portion of the tyre.
The carpet we use is the Black rubber backed type, the Club only purchased it at the end of last year. It is easier to lay than the old carpet and seems to have a lot less "fuzz" off of it. However it is a fair bit more abrasive, quickly rounding off the outer corner of the tyre. Club rules only allow "Kit Tyres" and M-Grips.
The biggest difference I have found is how much softer oil I now run compared to a year or two ago, used to run 40wt all round. I'm a bit of a cheapskate and haven't bought shock oil for years, Associated 25 is the lightest I have, I'd like to try a little softer some time.
We race black can motor/nimh cells/kit esc/kit diff/M-grips so racing is super tight.
And why you run spacers on the uprights, to compensate for bump steer maybe?
Many similarities I found to my setup like stiffer rear springs than front, and camber setup with the Tamiya tires. Never tried really the differnt rollcentre setup in rear back to back yet.
And to not involve the rebound thread: 1 Oring in the bladder front, none in rear? Thoughts?
And to not involve the rebound thread: 1 Oring in the bladder front, none in rear? Thoughts?
And do you glue the sidewalls on front, involving the first tread pattern maybe?
The carpet we use is the Black rubber backed type, the Club only purchased it at the end of last year. It is easier to lay than the old carpet and seems to have a lot less "fuzz" off of it. However it is a fair bit more abrasive, quickly rounding off the outer corner of the tyre. Club rules only allow "Kit Tyres" and M-Grips.
A lot of questions, but really would like to know your experiences about the specialities...
We race black can motor/nimh cells/kit esc/kit diff/M-grips so racing is super tight.
[QUOTE=marcos graveyar;14847584]
No, they are Spice inserts for 60D, the 55 refers to the thickness (5.5mm)
Yes, outers for bump steer, inners for ackerman.
I build the shocks with zero rebound when filled. The bladder will give somewhat during operation, the O ring lessens this, it's similar to adding 2mm rebound over the rear shock just a more easy and constant way to measure for me.
I only glue the sidewalls, no glue on the threaded portion of the tyre.
The carpet we use is the Black rubber backed type, the Club only purchased it at the end of last year. It is easier to lay than the old carpet and seems to have a lot less "fuzz" off of it. However it is a fair bit more abrasive, quickly rounding off the outer corner of the tyre. Club rules only allow "Kit Tyres" and M-Grips.
The biggest difference I have found is how much softer oil I now run compared to a year or two ago, used to run 40wt all round. I'm a bit of a cheapskate and haven't bought shock oil for years, Associated 25 is the lightest I have, I'd like to try a little softer some time.
We race black can motor/nimh cells/kit esc/kit diff/M-grips so racing is super tight.
Hi Marcos,
thank you for answering all the questions. Checked my M05 yesterday, and indeed noticed a little bump steer when having bigger bump strokes. Will give the spacers a try.
For shock setup, I also went to the softer side last season, and was really pleased with it. Running BB shocks, I´ve 1,3mm pistons front (like on my M06 rear), 1,0 pistons rear 300MM oil all around. Front always linked to the axle hinge pin, like you. Rear changing to track, carpet often outside, bumpy out door tracks inside for more give.
I´ve to rework some parts now, after 2 seasons nearly without changing parts due to wear on the car. Sealed 3Racing gear diff gets oil change always beginning of the season. Always 20.000 oil, if the diff is settled in. No one in our races drives Spool or very tight gear diff I´d tend to say, as we do not make a secret about it. Last years winner even uses 15.000 oil (only).
That is with Carson Cup machine, and 2s Lipo spec rule Zippy 4000mAh.
Br,
Matthias
No, they are Spice inserts for 60D, the 55 refers to the thickness (5.5mm)
Yes, outers for bump steer, inners for ackerman.
I build the shocks with zero rebound when filled. The bladder will give somewhat during operation, the O ring lessens this, it's similar to adding 2mm rebound over the rear shock just a more easy and constant way to measure for me.
I only glue the sidewalls, no glue on the threaded portion of the tyre.
The carpet we use is the Black rubber backed type, the Club only purchased it at the end of last year. It is easier to lay than the old carpet and seems to have a lot less "fuzz" off of it. However it is a fair bit more abrasive, quickly rounding off the outer corner of the tyre. Club rules only allow "Kit Tyres" and M-Grips.
The biggest difference I have found is how much softer oil I now run compared to a year or two ago, used to run 40wt all round. I'm a bit of a cheapskate and haven't bought shock oil for years, Associated 25 is the lightest I have, I'd like to try a little softer some time.
We race black can motor/nimh cells/kit esc/kit diff/M-grips so racing is super tight.
thank you for answering all the questions. Checked my M05 yesterday, and indeed noticed a little bump steer when having bigger bump strokes. Will give the spacers a try.
For shock setup, I also went to the softer side last season, and was really pleased with it. Running BB shocks, I´ve 1,3mm pistons front (like on my M06 rear), 1,0 pistons rear 300MM oil all around. Front always linked to the axle hinge pin, like you. Rear changing to track, carpet often outside, bumpy out door tracks inside for more give.
I´ve to rework some parts now, after 2 seasons nearly without changing parts due to wear on the car. Sealed 3Racing gear diff gets oil change always beginning of the season. Always 20.000 oil, if the diff is settled in. No one in our races drives Spool or very tight gear diff I´d tend to say, as we do not make a secret about it. Last years winner even uses 15.000 oil (only).
That is with Carson Cup machine, and 2s Lipo spec rule Zippy 4000mAh.
Br,
Matthias