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Old 12-22-2016, 07:57 PM   #28456
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I gave in. Ordered a M05 R version. $200 was the price . Do I need those carbon shock towers? Not sure if it came with the kit. Can't wait. I should have it in 3-4 days[USPS priority]
That's a decent price, where did you get it from?

The kit doesn't come with carbon shock towers. The stand-up front shock tower is a pretty popular upgrade, although whether you "need" it is another matter. You definitely don't need the rear one.
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Old 12-22-2016, 08:15 PM   #28457
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i thought that was a great deal. And it's available
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Old 12-23-2016, 04:40 AM   #28458
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Agreed on the CF shock towers. The rear ones were useless to me too.
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Old 12-23-2016, 03:42 PM   #28459
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That's a decent price, where did you get it from?

The kit doesn't come with carbon shock towers. The stand-up front shock tower is a pretty popular upgrade, although whether you "need" it is another matter. You definitely don't need the rear one.
I got it from brownies hobbies in NY. Not sure if they have more. I'd try to call them. $200 s a great price for a limited edition run
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Old 12-24-2016, 07:45 AM   #28460
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RCReggie- I'm sure you already probably know, but you can also play with thinner axle hex hubs and sand down the wheel hub side a bit on the inside to tuck the wheels in a little for added clearance.

I run the Monte Carlo (M01) body on one of my M05's. It runs fairly well, but it's a lot top heavier due to the scale decorations. I like it, but not really intended for racing.

Here is another M05 where I slammed the ride. This is the non-Monte Carlo M05 with its kit body. This is also running 55mm.
No, I actually didn't know - I'm just desiring to play it safe since I know the body I have is fitting 64mm tires fine. But I think I'll post that info to the youtube video of someone whom is having problems galore - trust me his isn't slammed down that far (in fact, I don't think mines quite that deep into the weeds either).
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Old 12-24-2016, 08:24 AM   #28461
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RCReggie- I see. Yeah, mine is pretty low. On the M05, I had to cut off the tail end of the chassis to get the body to sit properly. See below crappy picture..

The left one is my bone stock one, the right is the slammed chassis at the time.. this is an old picture.

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Old 12-24-2016, 10:20 AM   #28462
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RCReggie- I see. Yeah, mine is pretty low. On the M05, I had to cut off the tail end of the chassis to get the body to sit properly. See below crappy picture..

The left one is my bone stock one, the right is the slammed chassis at the time.. this is an old picture.
My body went right over top but sat behind the body nicely with no contact problems. Although now that my car has been subjected to 4 month's of racing abuse (and numerous crashes), my body does show impact problems from the rails punching at the body. But alas, I can't chop it off due to the racing rules (no chopping, hacking, etc of the chassis permitted).

What's the metal tab on your lowered car for (over top and to the right of the servo)?
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Old 12-24-2016, 03:35 PM   #28463
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What bodies for the M class are allowed for the TCS ? I forgot to mention for the long wheelbase. Is it the RX7 and the Mazda 2 only? If so, it must be hard to find one.
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Old 12-24-2016, 03:36 PM   #28464
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Interesting...I can't share a pic of this (won't let me post a link's to image, at least, not until I make more posts). I was changing some programing settings on my ESC when I noticed that one of my M-Grip tires has a really odd split in it...Never seen anything like this before. The split starts from the 2nd block's of the inner most side, travels through the outer blocks beside it, and then up the side wall and into the rim. It follows the tread pattern out the the side wall, then cuts back as it heads up to the rim. Definitely will have to replace the tire (yay, I *HATE* gluing tires as I always seem to make a mess of things by getting glue patches on the side walls where I don't want to see it). But what would cause this type of damage? Car only gets used on carpet (at the track or inside my apartment). Its not a clean cut - the rubber has a torn look to it..
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Old 12-24-2016, 06:24 PM   #28465
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My body went right over top but sat behind the body nicely with no contact problems. Although now that my car has been subjected to 4 month's of racing abuse (and numerous crashes), my body does show impact problems from the rails punching at the body. But alas, I can't chop it off due to the racing rules (no chopping, hacking, etc of the chassis permitted).

What's the metal tab on your lowered car for (over top and to the right of the servo)?
I can see racing rules prohibiting you from chopping that piece off.

That's a body post support with a transponder holder. I had a couple of spares off my TA05 M-Four so decided to use it as the Rover Mini bodies are top heavy.
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Old 12-25-2016, 09:07 AM   #28466
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That's a body post support with a transponder holder. I had a couple of spares off my TA05 M-Four so decided to use it as the Rover Mini bodies are top heavy.
Ahhh, cool! Can't say I've noticed the body being top heavy - but perhaps I'm just a little too used to driving with high COG's.
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Old 12-25-2016, 06:35 PM   #28467
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What changed with the V2 stainless steel shaft?

54613 RC Stainless Steel Sus Shaft - M-05 Ver.II

Tamiya's site says newly designed 3x58mm Stainless Steel Shaft?
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Old 12-25-2016, 07:57 PM   #28468
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What changed with the V2 stainless steel shaft?

54613 RC Stainless Steel Sus Shaft - M-05 Ver.II

Tamiya's site says newly designed 3x58mm Stainless Steel Shaft?
They're just longer than the old ones, to accommodate for the droop adjusters. I think referring to a new design is a bit grandiose.
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Old 12-25-2016, 10:14 PM   #28469
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Has anyone rebuilt their big bore dampers yet? Do they use the same rebuild kit as the other trf dampers? The reason I ask a Tamiya is offering the rod guides for the newer dampers (big bore, 419, etc) separately.
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Old 12-26-2016, 02:26 AM   #28470
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Gear diff

http://machine-rc.dreamlog.jp/archives/5042483.html

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