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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 04-05-2016, 01:03 AM
  #27241  
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Originally Posted by antlockyer
No but I'm probably the only over 40 guy in the UK that doesn't. I'm currently using my KO ex10 from 1996. New car means a new receiver and those 40mhz ones are hard to find here now, plus I'm getting a bit fed up with the giant aerial. "Ant look out you'll have someone's eye out with that".

I'm just trying to decide how much to spend. The DX4C from Spektrum does all I need and I'm sure it's am upgrade to the KO.
I still use my JR R1 at times on my old TC from my racing days 2 decades ago. Works fine and the rod adds a nice nostalgic flavor.

My kid uses the DX4C and I have a DX4S for my offroads. It's not a bad radio but it's notoriously plagued with steering return spring breaking problem.
The steering wheel is huge too.

I suggest at least a Sanwa Airtronics MT4. Buy the best radio you can afford. I run the previous gen Futaba flagship.
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Old 04-05-2016, 01:41 AM
  #27242  
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I really struggle with buy the best you can afford thing. Realistically I could buy any radio if I dipped into my savings but in the 8 hours of thought I gave it yesterday a few things stood out.

1. I'm a terrible driver and no amount of radio will change that.
2. I'd feel like an idiot with a really good radio when I'm hitting barriers all the time.
3. There doesn't seem to be anything on the MT4 that I couldn't get on the MP-V other than the smaller RX and certainly nothing on the MT4 that I can't get on the DX4C

I've read all the threads about poor Spektrum performance, and the breaking spring etc. but
an MT4 with 2 receivers is £270 here ($380)
a DX4C with 2 receivers is £130 ($185)
and DX4S with 2 receivers is £190 ($260)

That's a pretty big jump.

Should add I saw the new(?) MTS on special for £190 ($260) with two receivers.

Last edited by antlockyer; 04-05-2016 at 01:53 AM.
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Old 04-05-2016, 04:31 AM
  #27243  
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Originally Posted by antlockyer

1. I'm a terrible driver and no amount of radio will change that.
2. I'd feel like an idiot with a really good radio when I'm hitting barriers all the time.
3. There doesn't seem to be anything on the MT4 that I couldn't get on the MP-V other than the smaller RX and certainly nothing on the MT4 that I can't get on the DX4C
.
Answers
1. You maybe a bad driver, but all you need is more practice and you would be suprised on what a decent radio can do to help you with the handling of your car!

2. Again practice, but name one guy on here who hasn't lost focus and did that!
Face it, you will feel like an idiot anytime you do!

3. Sorry no knowledge of this setup, others can comment. But like I said,a better radio and practice, practice and some more practice will cure your blues!
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Old 04-05-2016, 05:05 AM
  #27244  
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Oh don't get me wrong I'm perfectly comfortable with my level and know it will improve. Just have to be realistic about how much I spend on what. I've jsut spent out a fair amount of money (the least possible) on getting a GT12 car, motor, lipos, charger, ESC etc.
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Old 04-05-2016, 07:41 AM
  #27245  
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Originally Posted by antlockyer
I really struggle with buy the best you can afford thing. Realistically I could buy any radio if I dipped into my savings but in the 8 hours of thought I gave it yesterday a few things stood out.

1. I'm a terrible driver and no amount of radio will change that.
2. I'd feel like an idiot with a really good radio when I'm hitting barriers all the time.
3. There doesn't seem to be anything on the MT4 that I couldn't get on the MP-V other than the smaller RX and certainly nothing on the MT4 that I can't get on the DX4C

I've read all the threads about poor Spektrum performance, and the breaking spring etc. but
an MT4 with 2 receivers is £270 here ($380)
a DX4C with 2 receivers is £130 ($185)
and DX4S with 2 receivers is £190 ($260)

That's a pretty big jump.

Should add I saw the new(?) MTS on special for £190 ($260) with two receivers.
I mean it's up to you. I would drive with your current radio for a few months and see how much you enjoy the hobby and if it is something you would like to do long term. As long as your radio is not glitching FM is not bad. I run ZPCM/PPM receivers on my R1 and they are still reliable for the most part.

I see many people buying a cheaper 2.4G Hz radio thinking it is 'enough' but later upgrading to a nicer radio. That's money wasted imo, so if you can get the MTS or whatever your choice now, better get that and keep it for a long time.

Spektrum radios are not bad but the DX4S/DX4C is 11ms and above latency so it is noticeable difference in response when I switch to my 4PKS-R. Also check how the radio feels in your hand. The reason why my kid runs the DX4C is that it fits his little hand. For me, the trigger feels awkward as my throttle finger is completely through the trigger, but since the receiver is water resistant, I decided to use it on my off-roaders, plus gives redundancy if my kid's radio return spring breaks (he can use my DX4S temporarily while I take the DX4C apart).
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Old 04-05-2016, 08:09 AM
  #27246  
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I totally am listening, will give it some more thought. I'd stick with the KO for sure if I didn't need another receiver for my new car. I am concerned that I'll lose feel going to 2.4 unless I spend the money. The other side of my brain just says I'll get used to it
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:18 AM
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IMHO, I raced with a very cheap hobbyking radio HERE and won with it. For me, as long as the radio doesn't glitch and has end point adjustments, you really don't need much more to win races. Everything else is bling IMHO and doesn't change your results. I use a KO EX10-Eurus these days, but I am well aware I don't NEED this radio in order to do well. I bought it cause its cool lol.

I can recall everyone getting excited about the new Helios transmitter, being a fraction of a millisecond quicker in response times..... I would be super lucky to feel the difference in anything slower than a 8th scale nitro onroad, or modified 12th scale.

For mini? Any RTR radio can win races, so I wouldn't suggest there is any real requirement, other than reliability, and end point adjustment.
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:46 AM
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Aaron, that looks like a Sanwa clone. If it is, that's a very good radio for the money.
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:30 AM
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I have no clue Chuck. About my only gripe with it, apart from the slender grip area, was the lack of dual rate button on the grip. I had to ensure I had the dual rate set right in practice, because it was too hard to adjust mid race, but really, that was hardly a problem.

IMHO, getting super comfortable with your radio, the car, the setup is critical to getting good practice and becoming faster. Its not always a good idea to work on setup, its better to work on driving. You can drive a terrible car fast if your a good driver, and you can win a lot when you become a good driver with a good car. But if you spend your time finding the best setup, radio etc, and don't invest on your driving, you will never win. And your driving will improve much quicker when other things stay the same, like setup, radio etc. If you keep changing these things, you are constantly adapting your driving to them, instead of improving your driving. This is where Ivan was lucky. he has become an amazing driver, because he is too slack to work on his cars, and too cheap to buy his own good radio. He was easily the last driver in our province to still be using a 75mhz radio....
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:41 AM
  #27250  
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Originally Posted by eR1c
Adjusting the camber should help w/ keeping your car straight and less twitchy. when i first setup my car I began w/ 3 degree negative in rear and 2 degree pos in front. Then worked towards neutral camber until car started to handle poorly ...for me the ideal camber turned out to be:
1.5 negative rear and about .5 pos front running long wheelbase.

What wheelbase are you running? I found that short wheelbase was much twitchier than long wheelbase. (never tried medium).
Eric you're running with positive camber? Is it toe?
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Old 04-05-2016, 03:58 PM
  #27251  
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I use the KO Propo EX-10 Eurus with the 2.4 GHz module.
I swapped out my Futaba 4PK, since I felt that my KO was much better for my hands and balance. I like a really soft steering and the Futaba was way to "heavy" on the steering.
Use it for 1:10 touring, Mini and 1:10 F1. And also all of my Kyosho Mini-Z (ASF module).

I did not like the Spektrum back in the days. But that is 3-4 years ago so.

I think a good comfortable transmitter with EPA, dual-rate and that-thing-called-something-I-don't-remember where you can set how steering and throttle respond around neutral is important.

At first I had a "pro" adjusting the basics on my transmitter. Made me go way faster than I used to. Then I used a setup tool for my car, so I knew things where equal on both sides of the car. Used the XRAY manual to setup my cars and after that, just practices a lot and you will probably do great.
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Old 04-06-2016, 05:09 AM
  #27252  
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After working out the MT-S was the MT-4 replacement I thought I'd take up that killer deal and buy one. Of course now the deal no longer exists and to get an MT-S over here with 2 receivers would cost $330

You snooze you lose.
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Old 04-06-2016, 07:44 AM
  #27253  
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Originally Posted by axle182

IMHO, getting super comfortable with your radio, the car, the setup is critical to getting good practice and becoming faster. Its not always a good idea to work on setup, its better to work on driving. You can drive a terrible car fast if your a good driver, and you can win a lot when you become a good driver with a good car. But if you spend your time finding the best setup, radio etc, and don't invest on your driving, you will never win. And your driving will improve much quicker when other things stay the same, like setup, radio etc. If you keep changing these things, you are constantly adapting your driving to them, instead of improving your driving....
I'm with AJ on this. I haven't changed anything on my Mini, or USGT car all season. Every week I checked the set up to make sure it was the same as last week and then drove the wheels off them. I was given an MT-4S at Christmas to replace my very old KO. I wouldn't say it made a huge difference, but it is faster and more comfortable. I would also say that it allowed my driving to improve, but didn't improve my driving.

I also bought a new used motor at the end of the season for our championship race and improved my qualifying position by 20 spots. The key here is that when you are ready, the improved equipment will help. In the case of radios, the equipment doesn't deteriorate, so invest early in a radio that is fast and comfortable, keep it forever and save yourself the money on the intermediate equipment. In the case of motors, bearings, speedos, etc, improve the driving first. When you are running heats of clean laps, then start looking for speed.
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Old 04-06-2016, 08:13 AM
  #27254  
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Appreciate the advice. The only tinkering I've tried to do is to make the car calm and stable. Not crashing is my goal

When I look at my timing from Sunday in my last heat I did 12 laps ranging from 22.53 to 27.88 with an average of 25.11

In the final I did 12 laps ranging from 21.14 (short first lap, low full lap was 22.93) to 32.53 averaging 25.54, if you take the short first lap out the average is 25.94.

Whatever way you look at it the spread from a good lap to a bad lap is huge and that's all from hitting stuff
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Old 04-06-2016, 09:22 AM
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antlockyer- Looking at your avatar I am assuming you play bass guitar? As you already probably found out, driving these RC cars is like learning a musical instrument. Good instruments can be a joy to play, but not required to be a great musician.

It will take at least a year of driving and experience to get the car to control and behave how you want it. I think you running your car at these events is a great idea as the more exposure you get from driving with good drivers, the faster you will see areas you can improve.

Some drivers have decades of experience driving. Those will routinely drive their cars without hitting anything through the entire battery pack unless bumped by a confused driver or something.
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