eR1c

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys, ...just wanted to say that I've been quiet on these boards the past few weeks as I have some insane work stuff I am dealing with right now. Hope to catch up and be back in a few weeks!

eR1c

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Hey there eR1c! Hope to hear back from you soon.



BTW, for those of you with the V2 using those clear CVA SuperMini dampers.. Have your caps seized onto the damper housing on yours? I was rebuilding mine last night when I noticed 2 of the 4 were super tight to remove the caps that I had to use 2 pliers. The cap goes on smoothly by hand, but once on, it feels like it's cross-threaded. I've not cross threaded any of the many standard black CVA dampers I have for a variety of cars and trucks.

Anyway, I thought it was a matter of time before I break the housing, so ordered a set of 54000's.
Also painted the grills last night on the 2 new Rover Mini bodies I'm working on right now. Will spray later this week.

Chris Wasnesky

I am looking to upgrade to the aluminum front uprights on my M-05 V2 Pro, mostly for durability. I see that it includes four flanged tubes and four 3x10mm button head screws. Can I use the M-05 low friction king pins (54237) in lieu of the included hardware or are these king pins for use with the plastic parts?

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

I believe so.

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

thanks,
I will be back soon! (I need RC to keep me sane)!

Hey, after my last race I started to tear apart my cars to replace worn bearings, replace shock oil, diff fluids, etc... On my M05 V2 I wanted to let you all know that dirt and grit gets into the gear box if you do not properly seal the chassis seams and holes. I don't think the M05 is as vulnerable as the M05 V2. I took my chassis apart and even though I only race on a prepared on-road track there was more grit than I cared to see. I can confirm it isn't worn plastic bits, but actual dirt and small gritty rock matter (I even looked at it under a magnifying glass to be sure). There are three areas that should be sealed/taped on the chassis. -the seam along the under-carriage, and two holes on the top of the chassis near the motor and battery compartment.

(sorry if this was already discussed, but a good reminder)

KA2AEV

iTrader: (1)

Newbie, we were running the 60d threaded radials up front with slicks in the rear
I've noticed the death groove as you call it, but they did not develop this time on the slicks
Where they usually develop, the radials did however wear down considerably, enough that we have to get another 4 tires to replace them. I'm not sure if we'll be running the same tire setups as we did down in Maryland this time at Jackson. We will make that decision after a few practice passes...

KA2AEV

iTrader: (1)

Ahem, but you believe what???

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

I don't believe in much, but I believe Chris can use the 54237 kingpins with those uprights.

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the heads-up eR1c on the grit getting inside. I remember putting AW grease along the bottom and some of the areas around the top of the chassis per V2 instructions. I've not driven my V2 outdoors so I don't see any grit in my gearbox, but maybe doing the AW grease + the taping might even improve the seal? Not sure, might be worth a try.

Painted the red and blue today. I got my Savox MG servo (per intercepted KA2AEV's recommendation to M05Newbie) to use on my M03. I was looking for a light weight servo and this is the same weight as the S6070, so wanted to give it a try. Plus with Savox's 25 spline, I can directly use my modified high torque servo off my Futaba servo. Got my A-parts for the M03 today, still waiting on the ball diff pressure plate to fix the MantaRay ball diff where the out drive splines broke. I also have 2 new sets of TA03 ball diffs coming to me as spare parts for my V2 and the lightly modded M05. Should be a fun week next week to put this all together.

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

You guys in Canada check this out! SUPER nice deal.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...a-m-05-v2.html

KA2AEV

iTrader: (1)

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh yes I do believe you are correct

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Rebuilt my M03 today. Used the Savox SC1252MG servo..

Problem I had with this servo on my M03 is the bracket distance to top of the spline gear is too short compared to my Futaba servo. I wanted to add another one mm of spacer to the mounting posts to get the servo mounted forward to my Futaba's old position, but the wires coming out of the side of the Savox servo housing prevented this.

Another issue is the servo spline gear is too short for the Tamiya high torque servo saver. I had to add shims inside the servo horn to avoid the servo saver from bottoming out on the Savox's top housing. I suppose I could get the Kimbrough servo saver, but then I'd get the S6070 as they are cheaper and I have good experience with those. The only reason why I got the Savox this time was for the 25 spline servo gear.

Besides these 2 minor issues though, the servo works well. My M03's sporting the old MantaRay ball diffs now that I got new pressure plates for it. Car is running very well.

Here's with 0.2mm shim, barely clears the top housing.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...-clearance.jpg

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Had the same issue using a Kimbrough. Removed the decal from the servo! Added a washer to space it out.

M05 newbie

What's the difference between the splines on the servo other than accuracy of center point at install...I. E not using much trim to center after installing. Is there a difference between the splines or is it just a different number?

hispeedguy

iTrader: (37)

I bought this sellers M06. It arrived today (extremely fast shipping from Canada). It was even nicer than I expected too. I would expect his M05 v2 is just as nice. If you are looking to get into racing Mini's, that would be an awesome start.