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Old 11-30-2006, 08:42 AM   #2416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilko66
I think that if both 04 and 03 both set about the same lap times and the racing is still at a price that is affordable for anyone to get into, more power to tamiya to keep the brakes on the modifications that can be done to the chassis and shocks and springs the closer and the more fun it will be to run the M chassis class.
I have mostly raced 2wd off road and quite for about 10 years came back and started 4wd on-road stock and mod almost lost interest again and found the mini class and then the Rwd m04m and have found my second wind with just having fun.
Yes U r correct that is the best part about the mini's they keep the cost down and boy r they fun to drive!!!!
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Old 11-30-2006, 10:53 AM   #2417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
Yes U r correct that is the best part about the mini's they keep the cost down and boy r they fun to drive!!!!


You are right mini class is very fun. But at the Tamiya Nats when you are racing for the Japan trip it can get just as heated as the GT-1 and GT-2 class. So you get the best of both worlds.
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Old 11-30-2006, 11:23 AM   #2418
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Your not kidding. Fun as hell though!
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Old 11-30-2006, 06:25 PM   #2419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racenut123
Your not kidding. Fun as hell though!
That is why the last 4 trips to NATS I ran Mini. Fun to drive, easy to work on, easy to tune. and great competition.
And after all this I didn't even think I wold win NATS this year, when I flew down. I thought I had a chance but there was 2 other mini past champs David Weir and Devon White, Craig Richter (always so fast), Mr Masters (nothing but reports of a fast mini driver from the south) Ray Paley, JC, Doc (who grew alot last year). Then those that are mini mini drivers that grow with the experience, Little Nathan Wier, and Mr (bro of lightening fast Deven) Dillon, oh did I mention that they are direct family members with Past champs. Then not to leave out John Hicks (where did he come from) ;-P
You can see that it might be hard to feel your place in that crowd.

I need to figure out now how to get over the second A main curse I have on my back!
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Old 11-30-2006, 06:55 PM   #2420
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I just ordered a Swift 1600 M03M, the bearings for the tranny, short spring kit. Schumacher Pro Shocks are pretty much the same as TRF shocks so I will run those for the time being.

Any pointers as to what to look for when assembling the kit?

I used to water dip motors 20 years ago so I can handle that...lol!
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Old 11-30-2006, 07:06 PM   #2421
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Talking mini

1 other reason I run the mini is track time + the fact that they make you roll the car throu the cornner bottom line it helps me drive my sedan...cant wait for the NOVAK to run the M03M saddddd to say but at a local level we no longer run mini's where before we had 2 to 3 heats every race night... see u Mini guy's in Jan!!!!!!
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Last edited by Customworksking; 11-30-2006 at 07:07 PM. Reason: ggg
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Old 11-30-2006, 07:53 PM   #2422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
I just ordered a Swift 1600 M03M, the bearings for the tranny, short spring kit. Schumacher Pro Shocks are pretty much the same as TRF shocks so I will run those for the time being.

Any pointers as to what to look for when assembling the kit?

I used to water dip motors 20 years ago so I can handle that...lol!
try to male the suspension smooth but tight. Also play with droop, start with limiting the shocks (internally) so that the the arms are flat with no load on the susp.
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Old 11-30-2006, 09:16 PM   #2423
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We are presently debating on what we should and should not allow in our new Tamiya Mini series starting in january. From your experience, what hop-up should we or should we not allow.

Our main priority is to make sure we have tight races. I do not want somebody laping every other car by 4 laps because of is car. Driver habilities, we'll that's another thing.

Presently, we want to allow any 3800mah stick that is factory made. Silver can no exception. The same pinion that comes out of the box (for everyone) unless running a m04 then he would have to lower one pinion I think.

We were thinking of allowing the HPI tires (lower cost). Same for HPI bodies.

Please post info or concern about these rules for a new fun class.

Thanks.

P.s. What will be the best procedure to break-in my new motor (ordered a M03M but have not received it yet). Ok enough with the questions.
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Old 12-01-2006, 12:16 AM   #2424
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Hey, this Mini I bought just arrived. It came with a ball diff that had been assembled by the previous owner (the car has never been run). The diff itself feels "notchier" than I'd prefer. What sort of build tips should have been followed? Sanding rings, etc?

What should I be feeling for when adjusting. The car/parts came with the packaging card for the ball diff with the rudimentary assembly instructions but nothing that really indicates how to execute adjustment/what am I feeling for?

Thanks,

Scottrik
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Old 12-01-2006, 12:21 AM   #2425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1larry
front use the Tamiya s-grip with tamiya hard sedan insert (cut to fit) with foam insert (also cut to fit).

wrap foam around wheel and then the insert around the foam.

Rear use Tamiya m-grip with tamiya hard sedan insert (cut to fit).

Tamiya use to have hard inserts for the mini wheels but discontinued them so now people are using the medium narrow hard insert (black) cut to fit the mini wheel.

Thats been the setup of choice at the track I race mini's at.
Hey Larrry--you don't happen to have any part numbers for these items, have you? Are the tires treaded or slicks? The 60's or...?

Many thanks,

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Old 12-01-2006, 02:22 AM   #2426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falconcg
We are presently debating on what we should and should not allow in our new Tamiya Mini series starting in january. From your experience, what hop-up should we or should we not allow.

Our main priority is to make sure we have tight races. I do not want somebody laping every other car by 4 laps because of is car. Driver habilities, we'll that's another thing.

Presently, we want to allow any 3800mah stick that is factory made. Silver can no exception. The same pinion that comes out of the box (for everyone) unless running a m04 then he would have to lower one pinion I think.

We were thinking of allowing the HPI tires (lower cost). Same for HPI bodies.

Please post info or concern about these rules for a new fun class.

Thanks.

P.s. What will be the best procedure to break-in my new motor (ordered a M03M but have not received it yet). Ok enough with the questions.
Locally when we had a strong mini turn out we allowed at the time any factory built 6 cell stick pack available to public through local hobby shops, any mini type body designed to fit the chassis, any mini tyre (HPI or Tamiya essentially) and any electronics. All other base rules we had were followed by TCS rules since some guys raced in TCS so aftermarket hop ups that were not TCS legal were not allowed.
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Old 12-01-2006, 03:18 AM   #2427
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Take a look on these M03 conversion and mini kits

I wouldn't mine to own one hehehe...... I love the TN Racing TA-05 and TechRacing M03 conversion.


1. Atlas Beat ES-4M1



2. Tech Racing M-03M Conversion



3. TNRacing TA-05 mini



4. Arnold Workshop ABOX



5. Corally mini Assassin



6. Active Hobby MiniFan

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Old 12-01-2006, 04:14 AM   #2428
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Default tamiya has it right

All and good to have other manufactures start playing will mini design but can we stay with something that is affordable and that all persons from 6 to 60 can setup and be competative with from the basic box with price being an a major limiter to stop people from starting this great hobby. Tamiya has the formula with the MChassis class and it still works for nascar and v8supercar in australia.
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Old 12-01-2006, 05:39 AM   #2429
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I'm sure i've seen a pic of a carbon m-chassis one time that actually still retains the shape and form of a M04, and is RWD only...
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Old 12-01-2006, 09:30 AM   #2430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
I just ordered a Swift 1600 M03M, the bearings for the tranny, short spring kit. Schumacher Pro Shocks are pretty much the same as TRF shocks so I will run those for the time being.

Any pointers as to what to look for when assembling the kit?

I used to water dip motors 20 years ago so I can handle that...lol!
Adrian,

Here is a good place to start, the article is a bit old with some parts outdated...but you get the basic premise.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...?article-id=12

John
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