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Old 11-22-2006, 06:15 PM   #2341
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Originally Posted by AdrianM
Hi guys. I just wanted to let you know that Take Off just released RP40 compound mini tires. We now have the RP30, 36 and 40 compounds in the US. They are working on molded inserts and racing wheels for Mini Coopers right now. They will also have all tire compounds available as premounts once the inserts and wheels are done.

Adrian

Any RP24s in the works?
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Old 11-22-2006, 06:18 PM   #2342
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Originally Posted by Sydewynder
So you sold 2 GenX to get a mini copper?

If you're looking for rubber setup and I really can't help you cause I'm looking myself. If you're running foams and don't need TCs legal then I have some setups

Nah--I sold two GenX's because I really didn't like them once I got one of them built. Several reasons, but I was sure glad I hadn't sold my two $400 brand new 3.2R's!!

I don't need TCS-legal as it'll just be for fooling around between rounds, etc but I DO want to stay with the rubber tires (less maintenance, longer life).

Any setups appreciated.

Scottrik
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Old 11-22-2006, 06:18 PM   #2343
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Originally Posted by Customworksking
dude I won the Novak with just lowering the car via what ever camber gain it had nothing else bottom line U need to drive point blanK
I agree that if you lower as much as you can you should get as much camber gain as needed.
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Old 11-22-2006, 06:46 PM   #2344
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Originally Posted by DrKucho
you have not much options, i think cutting the adjusters is the only way to go , use glue once you screw it to aviod from pop off
..... that make it un-adjustable then ...
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Old 11-22-2006, 06:51 PM   #2345
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Originally Posted by Customworksking
what u can do is cut the link in 1/2 thread a ti rod in each side say a corally rod and see if that will work
You mean still use the ball cup on each end ?
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Old 11-22-2006, 07:27 PM   #2346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Nah--I sold two GenX's because I really didn't like them once I got one of them built. Several reasons, but I was sure glad I hadn't sold my two $400 brand new 3.2R's!!

I don't need TCS-legal as it'll just be for fooling around between rounds, etc but I DO want to stay with the rubber tires (less maintenance, longer life).

Any setups appreciated.

Scottrik
I don't need TCS-legal as it'll just be for fooling around between rounds, etc but I DO want to stay with the rubber tires (less maintenance, longer life).

Any setups appreciated.

Scottrik[/QUOTE]


My set up with foams on Ozite carpet (car on the ground weighted with everything):

Yokomo SSS shocks
Tamiya short blue springs front*
Tamiya short Yellow springs rear*
50 wt shock oil all around
Silver (hard) swaybars front and rear
2 degree rear toe uprights
About 1/2 degree front toe out. (it will toe-in on compression)
Stock upper link for front camber
TL01 upper link for rear camber (see my other post about this)
TRC Plaid front foam trued 58mm, CA sidewall (60mm will work about the same)
TRC Purple rear foam trued 58mm, CA sidewall (60mm will work about the same)
Tamiya stronger servo saver w/metal ring
Tamiya Manta Ray ball diff tight as possible still with diff action
Raise the shock collars all the way up to get car as low as possible. Chassis is ~ 4mm at the lowest point near the front
ESC and receiver placed in the opening near the rear of the chassis. (Low as Possible)
Bearings all around

If running on smooth surface:
I have not done this yet but put in o-rings or fuel tubing in the shock as you built it to reduce or remove the droop. This will reduce weight transfer to the rear and front wheelspin on-power.

3200 Lipos work but Nimh work better because it weighs more.

*Springs are individually packaged. The ones that are packaged as a set of blues, yellows and reds are longer than the ones I'm using even though they say they are short springs.
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Old 11-23-2006, 02:46 AM   #2347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sydewynder
I agree that if you lower as much as you can you should get as much camber gain as needed.
Yes, but how low is optimal.? Until drive shafts are parallel to surface? Or is going lower even better? Mine are parallel now and i think I have really good handling.

On another note. Is there a really good brand of bearings u folks use on the M03/M. ceramic vs. steel? any thoughts?
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Old 11-23-2006, 08:43 AM   #2348
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Lightbulb how low can u go

I run mine anywhere from 2 to 4mm
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Old 11-23-2006, 08:53 PM   #2349
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on asphalt i run mine 4mm in the front 6mm in the rear, but my rear springs are soft and with lots of droop. remember, when a fwd car turns a corner quickly, it has a tendency to 3 wheel, like a dog peeing
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Old 11-23-2006, 09:31 PM   #2350
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Post how low can u go

this is how i will run at the novak race
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Old 11-24-2006, 10:58 AM   #2351
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that thing is low! How much droop you set on that beast?
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Old 11-24-2006, 12:01 PM   #2352
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Default ride

rear 3.5mm ft 3mm
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Old 11-24-2006, 05:09 PM   #2353
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Default how it sits

ride the rug!
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Tamiya mini cooper-dscf0551mini3.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dscf0552mini2.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dscf0553mini1.jpg  
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Old 11-24-2006, 09:07 PM   #2354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
this is how i will run at the novak race
Thats nice and low man! What's the shock unit you are using? Is it Tamiya? Part no?

I'm using the super mini cva and just cant get it past parallel unless u start trimming off the piston rod.
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Old 11-24-2006, 09:39 PM   #2355
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Default shocks

the shocks came off my TRF415 I used the black tamiya o rings inside the shocks with tamiya mini short springs I can sit it on the ground if i want if u want them i will sell em as u see em less springs for 30.00 I have extra set i can build for it....LMK
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