Tamiya mini cooper
Tech Elite
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R/C Tech Elite Member
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Yup, you run super thick goop in it. (I'd pretty much just have to wring out my hair and I'd be good to go.) I can see advantages in it.
Considering how much oil diffs leak, I am not sure I want any more oil based diff variations.
Tech Apprentice
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Tech Apprentice
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In another note, I think I finally gotten use to the brushless motor driving!
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As it turns out, I do give a monkey's butt.
Also related, that's exactly how I stand when I'm not using my crutches.
Good god, I'm bored.
Also related, that's exactly how I stand when I'm not using my crutches.
Good god, I'm bored.
R/C Tech Elite Member
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I'm reassembling my M05 and have run into an annoying problem. When I put any tension whatsoever on the forward-most chassis screws (one up by the body mount, the other just behind and below the diff) there is binding in the driveline. Here's a rundown.
- This is the same chassis I've been running without problems.
- I've installed a rebuilt gear diff and it has an adequate amount of side to side play.
- The motor plate is the v.1. I'm testing to see if it runs any smoother than my v.2 when it gets warm.
- New bearings. Properly seated.
It seems as if the chassis is twisting very slightly when these screws are in place. Even the carbon shock tower seems to pull the chassis halves together just enough to create friction. I'm thinking about using a 0.3mm shim between the chassis halves. Opinions?
- This is the same chassis I've been running without problems.
- I've installed a rebuilt gear diff and it has an adequate amount of side to side play.
- The motor plate is the v.1. I'm testing to see if it runs any smoother than my v.2 when it gets warm.
- New bearings. Properly seated.
It seems as if the chassis is twisting very slightly when these screws are in place. Even the carbon shock tower seems to pull the chassis halves together just enough to create friction. I'm thinking about using a 0.3mm shim between the chassis halves. Opinions?
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
I'm reassembling my M05 and have run into an annoying problem. When I put any tension whatsoever on the forward-most chassis screws (one up by the body mount, the other just behind and below the diff) there is binding in the driveline. Here's a rundown.
- This is the same chassis I've been running without problems.
- I've installed a rebuilt gear diff and it has an adequate amount of side to side play.
- The motor plate is the v.1. I'm testing to see if it runs any smoother than my v.2 when it gets warm.
- New bearings. Properly seated.
It seems as if the chassis is twisting very slightly when these screws are in place. Even the carbon shock tower seems to pull the chassis halves together just enough to create friction. I'm thinking about using a 0.3mm shim between the chassis halves. Opinions?
- This is the same chassis I've been running without problems.
- I've installed a rebuilt gear diff and it has an adequate amount of side to side play.
- The motor plate is the v.1. I'm testing to see if it runs any smoother than my v.2 when it gets warm.
- New bearings. Properly seated.
It seems as if the chassis is twisting very slightly when these screws are in place. Even the carbon shock tower seems to pull the chassis halves together just enough to create friction. I'm thinking about using a 0.3mm shim between the chassis halves. Opinions?
Tech Elite
I'm reassembling my M05 and have run into an annoying problem. When I put any tension whatsoever on the forward-most chassis screws (one up by the body mount, the other just behind and below the diff) there is binding in the driveline. Here's a rundown.
- This is the same chassis I've been running without problems.
- I've installed a rebuilt gear diff and it has an adequate amount of side to side play.
- The motor plate is the v.1. I'm testing to see if it runs any smoother than my v.2 when it gets warm.
- New bearings. Properly seated.
It seems as if the chassis is twisting very slightly when these screws are in place. Even the carbon shock tower seems to pull the chassis halves together just enough to create friction. I'm thinking about using a 0.3mm shim between the chassis halves. Opinions?
- This is the same chassis I've been running without problems.
- I've installed a rebuilt gear diff and it has an adequate amount of side to side play.
- The motor plate is the v.1. I'm testing to see if it runs any smoother than my v.2 when it gets warm.
- New bearings. Properly seated.
It seems as if the chassis is twisting very slightly when these screws are in place. Even the carbon shock tower seems to pull the chassis halves together just enough to create friction. I'm thinking about using a 0.3mm shim between the chassis halves. Opinions?
Out of curiosity, does the binding occur with a stock diff also?????
Unusual problem Jim. Never have seen it before.
Any place to race these around southern ohio?
I'm reassembling my M05 and have run into an annoying problem. When I put any tension whatsoever on the forward-most chassis screws (one up by the body mount, the other just behind and below the diff) there is binding in the driveline. Here's a rundown.
- This is the same chassis I've been running without problems.
- I've installed a rebuilt gear diff and it has an adequate amount of side to side play.
- The motor plate is the v.1. I'm testing to see if it runs any smoother than my v.2 when it gets warm.
- New bearings. Properly seated.
It seems as if the chassis is twisting very slightly when these screws are in place. Even the carbon shock tower seems to pull the chassis halves together just enough to create friction. I'm thinking about using a 0.3mm shim between the chassis halves. Opinions?
- This is the same chassis I've been running without problems.
- I've installed a rebuilt gear diff and it has an adequate amount of side to side play.
- The motor plate is the v.1. I'm testing to see if it runs any smoother than my v.2 when it gets warm.
- New bearings. Properly seated.
It seems as if the chassis is twisting very slightly when these screws are in place. Even the carbon shock tower seems to pull the chassis halves together just enough to create friction. I'm thinking about using a 0.3mm shim between the chassis halves. Opinions?
I would compare the 2 motor mounts side by side and see how the gear shafts seat in.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
Swapped out the motor plate, same deal. Haven't tried the stock diff. I suppose that would be smart.
We've all dealt with this over the years by leaving the screws backed out half a turn. This is just a bit more bind than I'm used to seeing. Stuck a tiny shim in each spot and it loosened up nicely.
We've all dealt with this over the years by leaving the screws backed out half a turn. This is just a bit more bind than I'm used to seeing. Stuck a tiny shim in each spot and it loosened up nicely.
got some practice racing in w/ my new M05 V2 conversion. WOW, -the new chassis does handle a lot nicer. The track was a low grip asphalt track, -so ran w/ Tamiya slicks up front and S-Grips on back ...wow, really handled like a dream. Tried both a shorty pack and longer/standard pack, I think I like the way the shorty pack felt better. -plus that gave me some weight savings so I could put extra weight where I wanted.
First race w/ the new chassis is this Sunday, -hope it proves as good as in practice. ...although it will be a higher grip track so not sure if i'll run the same tire setup.
First race w/ the new chassis is this Sunday, -hope it proves as good as in practice. ...although it will be a higher grip track so not sure if i'll run the same tire setup.