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Old 04-15-2015, 10:03 AM   #23401
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Originally Posted by Jamesd848 View Post
So we're is that compatible list? I've been looking around everywhere for it and I can't find it
http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/mat...ist_2013v2.pdf
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:11 AM   #23402
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Originally Posted by Drachenschorsch View Post
Hi, new poster here.

Some weeks ago, I replaced my ancient m02 (donīt laugh, I found it still competitive for chasing m05s ans m06s) with an ABC Gambado/Grid.

Is there a thread about this car anywhrere on the board? I tried the boardīs search function but couldnīt get any result.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, Iīm from Germany and after sarching the forums there it seems Iīm the only ABC Gambado/Grid racer in the country...

hey there Drachenschorsch I'm not sure if there is a Grid specific thread, but I did bump an ABC thread yesterday in the Electric On-Road forum asking if any knew where I could still buy the 4wd one. If there is none, I suppose you can create a new thread?

It seems monkeyracing wants to keep this thread to M01-M06 specific. And he's a big contributor so let's keep it that way?



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Sorry, just not a big fan of the M06. I know Whippler(sp?) can make it go, but let's face it, he's the exception.
Granpa- Impressive racing career. I too was hoping that the rear mounted motor would be better vs my mid-ship rear mounted M04, but I guess not, huh? I rarely drive my M04 these days due to traction problems.

That's the other thing with the M03 and M05. It is too tire/traction dependent, any looser track they do not drive so well. V2 on the other hand is still controllable on all kinds of surfaces showing off its chassis's design balance.
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Last edited by sakadachi; 04-15-2015 at 10:32 AM.
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Old 04-15-2015, 11:41 AM   #23403
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So would this one work
It's the only new m03 in cam find
What's the differences between the M03 and M03L?
http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Cooper-20...rds=tamiya+m03
Absolutely!!!!! Some plastic Mini shocks from TQ racing( I think they are the Mini CVA shocks) and you'll be in business. M03 is 210 mm WB, M03L is 239mm. There's an insert to change the WB. Put it in, 239, leave it out 210. Nice looking body in that particular kit.

Except for painting the body, you can build one of these in an afternoon----4 hours taking your time.

Maybe Jim or one of the guys could help you out with the part #s of the parts unique to the 03. Tamiya makes a Mini shock that's plastic that works really well and is pretty cheap. Get an extra chassis and any front body mounts you can get your hands on and you'll be set for a long time. I saw a bunch of these on ebay.
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Old 04-15-2015, 11:53 AM   #23404
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Originally Posted by sakadachi View Post
hey there Drachenschorsch

Granpa- Impressive racing career. I too was hoping that the rear mounted motor would be better vs my mid-ship rear mounted M04, but I guess not, huh? I rarely drive my M04 these days due to traction problems.

That's the other thing with the M03 and M05. It is too tire/traction dependent, any looser track they do not drive so well. V2 on the other hand is still controllable on all kinds of surfaces showing off its chassis's design balance.

Thanx, but the guys in the Mini Mafia keep you humble. It's really hard to keep up with some of those guys. When you run with them every Saturday it keeps you sharp. Here's the benefit to the guys on this forum, I post a lot of the collective wisdom of the guys on this thread, just not everything. Not too many of them post here, but some do on occasion. It gives me a chuckle when I see some of their advice go unheeded or contested.

Last edited by Granpa; 04-15-2015 at 11:56 AM. Reason: corrrection
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Old 04-15-2015, 12:16 PM   #23405
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Okay so I found the parts on rcmart (Yah)
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-50793-p...th=595_744_707
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-50792-c...th=595_744_707
Are there any other special to the m03 parts that I need to get?
Are there any other parts in general I need.
Painting wise I think I'm gonna try to paint it british racing green
what color is that rc paint wise? dark green?
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Old 04-15-2015, 01:41 PM   #23406
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
Thanx, but the guys in the Mini Mafia keep you humble. It's really hard to keep up with some of those guys. When you run with them every Saturday it keeps you sharp. Here's the benefit to the guys on this forum, I post a lot of the collective wisdom of the guys on this thread, just not everything. Not too many of them post here, but some do on occasion. It gives me a chuckle when I see some of their advice go unheeded or contested.
I'm all ears and eyes, Granpa. I am a quick learner too.


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Originally Posted by Jamesd848 View Post
Okay so I found the parts on rcmart (Yah)
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-50793-p...th=595_744_707
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-50792-c...th=595_744_707
Are there any other special to the m03 parts that I need to get?
Are there any other parts in general I need.
Painting wise I think I'm gonna try to paint it british racing green
what color is that rc paint wise? dark green?
Hey James, you check out the link I posted earlier on?
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Old 04-15-2015, 01:42 PM   #23407
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James, those are the unique parts. You'll need all the rest to assemble a car if you don't have them already. Tamiya has a great database of assembly manuals that can get you acquainted with what you'll need to build a basic car.

http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/manuals.htm

Here's one for a basic M03M

http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcm...8swift1600.pdf

Your best bet is a used roller from eBay or local used ads where you live. A basic, complete used car should run about $100. With upgrades, brushless systems $150-$200.

If you're able to find a NIB kit, try not to pay too much. Anything over $150 and you're padding a collector's wallet.
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Old 04-15-2015, 06:47 PM   #23408
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If you actually look above, I found one on amazon I think Ill end up going with
Radio wise I think Ill grab the fly sky 15 buck one,
and can anyone recommend a good but not to expinsive servo?
Would anyone know the dimensions of the battery tray?
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Old 04-15-2015, 09:36 PM   #23409
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"58614 RCC New M Size 4WD Chassis (Body:Suzuki Jimny)"

I wonder what they're up to this time.
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:19 PM   #23410
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where is that from
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:54 PM   #23411
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http://tamiyablog.com/2015/04/more-f...may-14th-17th/
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Old 04-15-2015, 11:07 PM   #23412
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I think that is a new car
I might have to wait and see what it is
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Old 04-16-2015, 08:34 AM   #23413
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"58614 RCC New M Size 4WD Chassis (Body:Suzuki Jimny)"

I wonder what they're up to this time.
I have two GF01 (Landcruiser) which are 1/12 scale 4WD. They are a blast to drive.

Be great if they make m-chassis kits with that body too because at the moment, I can't buy spare bodies with decals. I just want more bodies..


So last night I had some spare time so worked on my M05. New gears installed, new RR 20t pinion (thanks again, guys! ) and adjusted ball diff setting and put it back in the car. Runs well, waiting on a few more springs to arrive this week to try to settle the suspension side of things.

Next I want to work on my M03. I need to rebuild the dampers as they are all leaking.. I have x-rings in stock, also got a new 1/8" hole puncher to make my own plastic shims so that the x-rings are slightly compressed while inside the dampers o-ring retainer.

I need to get a hold of the pressure plate.. or just buy a new ball diff entirely. I need to order more tires anyway..

Still waiting on CVD's to arrive from a Japanese hobby shop. I hate buying from overseas..
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Old 04-16-2015, 10:10 AM   #23414
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Next I want to work on my M03. I need to rebuild the dampers as they are all leaking.. I have x-rings in stock, also got a new 1/8" hole puncher to make my own plastic shims so that the x-rings are slightly compressed while inside the dampers o-ring retainer. ..
The clear o-rings or the stock ones seem to be the best all around rings for the TRF shocks. They're the ones that came with the shocks. While the blue option ones, while freer in operation, soon start to leak. Whether the free operation is enough to warrant the frequent rebuilds, is a decision for you. I don't notice enough of an advantage to go thru the constant rebuilding of shocks.

Sometimes we all may do things w/out clearly thinking things thru. Believe me, I'm as guilty of this as anyone. Your solution of adding a spacer to over compress the X ring to improve it's seal negates the one advantage it had over the stock o-ring. By compressing it more, it makes the hole smaller and will improve the seal, but it will also cause it to fit tighter around the piston rod or shock shaft. This, of course, will make the shock less free, which is why we used the x-ring in the first place. Also those blue things wear much faster so will leak anyway. They were never intended for general use, but were intended for the serious racer who was willing to put up with rebuilding shocks every few race weekends.

Another reason shocks need frequent rebuilds is if they were built with a high rebound rate. Zero rebound shocks seem to require less attention. This is just an observation of mine from experience and I have no technical data to back this up.

Again, as always, this is posted merely for your consideration. I post this, every so often, to avoid confrontation.
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Old 04-16-2015, 11:02 AM   #23415
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Again, as always, this is posted merely for your consideration. I post this, every so often, to avoid confrontation.
Im considering having a similar disclaimer tattooed on my forehead. It will also cover sudden bouts of taunting directed at others and anything involving fire, chemicals and/or electricity.
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