R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Like Tree198Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-26-2015, 01:01 PM   #23176
Tech Elite
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,274
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
All cars will get light on the rear end when lifting off the throttle entering a corner, due to weight transfer from the rear to the front. (In real cars it's referred to as "trailing throttle oversteer".) Of course, some do it worse than others. The behavior can be reduced by lowering the center of gravity (by lowering the ride height, for instance), lengthening the wheelbase, and of course, not lifting off the throttle so abruptly on turn-in.

A brushed motor will do this more than a brushless (if no drag brake is used) because it has more internal friction.

You can also get some relief from this by using thicker front shock oil, thinner rear shock oil, or both. That will cause a little more understeer as the car starts to lean into the corner.

Yes, I completely agree and understand what you are saying. I think the motor is dragging since I am running the silver can. I will try a smaller hole aftermarket piston on my fronts. I think I still have a few Yokomo or HPI pistons I can use. I tried softer damp rate on the rear but it just contributed to more sway than anything, so using Tamiya's firmest blue oil with single hole piston on all four corners. I will use smaller hole pistons just on the front and try the white oil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DesJardins View Post
Ahhh I have no experience with the M-05, just the V2 & thanks it's running & looking pretty good!

What is the rear suspension set up right now sakad?

My buddy had a terrible rear end & wander but toe out up front & stock rear uprights corrected his issue for the most part
Des- Yes, the V2 drives phenomenally well out of the box. I bought the V2 first and got the M05 as a present after. I was not expecting such different characteristic. The rear camber and toe on my M05 is currently setup exactly like my V2. I made my own camber rods. I have decent toe-out on the front, but not excessive.
__________________
4PKS-R, DX4S, EX-5UR: Sabre4WD Mini, SabreFD Mini, M01, M02, M03, M04, M05 (2), M05ProV2, TA05 M-Four, CupRacer, BSR M-Rage, WR02, GF01 (2), CC01 (2), CW01, CR01, DF02, TT02B, TA02, RS4, MicroRS4, MR01, MR03-S (2), MR03VE, DigiQ (7), & more.. Updates of projects I am working on in my profile page.
sakadachi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2015, 05:58 PM   #23177
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Dorset,UK
Posts: 128
Default

When glueing the front sidewalls do you guys just do the outside?
__________________
Zen RSGT, Trinity, Hobbywing, LRP.
M05 S-Spec, LRP, Intellect.
M05 v2 Tekin, Orion, Savox.
B44 Mamba Max, Trakpower.
B44.2 Avid chassis, Speed Passion, Gens Ace.
BILKO1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2015, 06:36 PM   #23178
Tech Elite
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,274
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

BILKO1- I glue the insides as well, but probably not necessary.
__________________
4PKS-R, DX4S, EX-5UR: Sabre4WD Mini, SabreFD Mini, M01, M02, M03, M04, M05 (2), M05ProV2, TA05 M-Four, CupRacer, BSR M-Rage, WR02, GF01 (2), CC01 (2), CW01, CR01, DF02, TT02B, TA02, RS4, MicroRS4, MR01, MR03-S (2), MR03VE, DigiQ (7), & more.. Updates of projects I am working on in my profile page.
sakadachi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2015, 09:14 PM   #23179
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DesJardins View Post
I agree with grandpa on the stiffer spring up front causing that push... I also tried a thicker oil & push came with the softer spring. I went too stiff in the rear & it caused "hop". I went back to the medium spring & 40wt with the roll bar but that caused "hop" again.

My parking lot has left me with this combo as it's not as smooth as many purpose built tracks. Obviously there are all the other factors mentioned from ride height to droop but each track will require changes so play around with the set-ups & make one change at a time

(35wt front, 40wt rear)
(Soft springs up front, Medium in the back)
3 hole piston all around & no anti-roll bars


Generally, rear end hop is by too much grip causing the sidewall to tuck under, which will cause the rear end to "hop". This is one of those things where we have a pretty good idea of what happens, but the cause is more difficult to pinpoint. These are some of the things you can try. Add or subtract camber. Try changing the rear ride height. One of the most effective things for me was to add a 1mm spacer to the drive hex and widen the track. Sometimes it's the front end action overloading the outside rear wheel. You could try slowing the servo speed down, dialing back the throw in the TX. You could also change the rear shock mounting points. Occasionally going to a softer rear shock oil can help. Oh, and the most obvious of all, try a different set of tires.

These are just a few of the things off the top of my head you could play with. There are others, but they are a lot of work and difficult to reverse. It could really mess up your set up. Frankly, this is one of the most difficult of problems cause I've never found a clear cut solution. I had one Mini where it plagued me for weeks, then it just went away, never to return.

Hope this helps. And again, just one old mans opinion and forwarded with no intention to offend, but merely to give some info.
Granpa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2015, 09:25 PM   #23180
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sakadachi View Post
per granpa's idea, I think I will see if I can add maybe a 1mm spacer on the rear next to give the rear wider track.

KA2AEV- excellent suggestion on jotting down notes I've already tried!

Des- Your machine looks great! On the V2 I completely agree that the softer springs belong on the front. But the M05 is completely different. There is too much sway with even the yellow springs up front with the red springs in the back for me causing the car to be unstable while approaching a fast wide right turn and snaking through a tight right turn soon after on my basement track. I tried the blue front/red rear springs approach, but the white extra hard spring front/yellow rear has been much more stable.

try adding a little more toe out. 05's liked more toe than seemed reasonable to me.
Granpa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2015, 09:40 PM   #23181
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
Default

[QUOTE=caltek1;13926222]KA2AEV,
I use Nulon Ezi-Glide clear silicone lubricant. Comes in a 500ml spray can and has been in my toolbox for a long time. It is an Australian brand and I really like the stuff.

Bob,
Sorry to hear you are up for more chemo, but hopefully this will be the last of it my friend. I really hope it goes into remission.
Thanks for the great info you pass on to us, you a wealth of knowledge to us all. I really wish I could come and get some of that knowledge in person.
You asked in another post what we thought of the MO5 V2 , well I really like the new chassis , so much that it is the first car I consider when racing. Yes I do have a backup MO5 V1, but it remains in my pitbag, unless I break/strip a gear in my V2.
The biggest thing I have found with the new car was the tendancy for dirt to get into the gearbox area and strip the intermediate gear, but using battery tape and blutak has resolved this issue for me. I also have now seen that the front chassis is prone to cracking, however at this stage it is not causing issues. I will monitor this though and carry a spare just in case.
The positives well the car is easier to drive, better balanced and for me is faster and more forgiving. Regarding the droop screws, I think a gimmick, as no real way to adjust properly without a specially made droop block, so I just use the standard shocks off my original MO5. (These are m chassis TRF units built per instructions, with 3 hole pistons all round and 35 weight oil, zero rebound).
I have found you do need to run front toe out on the car and I am presently running 1 degree rear hubs. I personally found the shocks in the convential position better than using the MO6 pins and use fluro springs front and rear in the same combos as you posted Bob.
I currently like mwb and have found the car to be reactive and stable on large and small tracks. I run the front a little lower than the rear for ride height and use front and rear shock towers with the rearsin the standard position and the fronts fully laid over or second outer hole depending on the track.
I do run a oil gear diff with 300 000 weight oil and like this better than heavier oil, as gives better steering and corner speed.
I use a shorty battery pack that weighs in at around 222 grms and have it offset to the non motor side for balance. We have a weight limit of 1330 gms, so I have added lead in and onto the front bumper for getting the power down.
I have found that 1.5 degrees rear camber the best for me ,any more than this and the car looses rear grip. I think this was an issue I was having before but somehow overlooked this setting and concentrated on changing rear hex width,
So my opinion is a little tainted as I really like the new chassis.
Hope my rose coloured glasses don't dazzle you and get better soon.
Take care,
Calvin.[/QUOTE

Thanks for the kind words Calvin. Yeah, it'd be fun to be able to sit and compare ideas and theories at a track, then go run a bit. On the cracking chassis, have you tried reinforcing the inside of the chassis with some silicone??? The 03 used to crack until we started building up that area with ShooGoo or silicone. Reduced that problem quite a bit.
Granpa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2015, 12:41 AM   #23182
Tech Champion
 
monkeyracing's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SnowMexico
Posts: 6,106
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Just tore my M05 completely apart for the first time since...last summer? every last fastener is out, every part sorted into piles for cleaning. (Yay! Cheap ultrasonic cleaner!) Noticed a few interesting things.

Most of the bearings were in decent shape, but there were a few that have gotten a little wobbly. One pulled from the front uprights had completely disintegrated. Retaining clip, shield, cage and balls were all bouncing around inside the upright.I guess that's what that noise was last Sunday.

There's a weird, sticky/greasy film down the left half of the chassis, from just behind the outdrive to the motor. You'd think this would have something to do with a leaky gear diff, but I've been running a TA03 diff most of the season.

It's amazing where carpet fluff gets. Not saying any more than that.

Tomorrow i start deep cleaning all the greasy bits and getting everything sorted and packed away while I wait for bearings to arrive.

Bob, really sorry to hear about your continuing troubles. Just fight it with everything you've got. I've been there. If I can pull it off, I'm damn sure you can.
__________________
Stab it and steer.
monkeyracing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2015, 03:38 AM   #23183
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 18
Default

Hey guys

I am racing on carpet at the moment and have been using the shimizu treaded (hard front, medium rear) and they seem to be going well but was wondering if there is anything else out there that people use on carpet?
leeism is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2015, 06:59 AM   #23184
MD
Tech Elite
 
MD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Illinois
Posts: 4,830
Trader Rating: 115 (100%+)
Default

I recently purchased a used M05 V.2. It has unattached sway bars, but no instructions for installing them. Does anyone know where I could get a copy of the installation instructions? Thanks.
MD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2015, 09:07 AM   #23185
Tech Elite
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,274
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

granpa- I will a tad bit more toe out on the front. I would assume it will make the turn-in faster making it more unstable for the rear, but it's worth a try.

I didn't get to change the damp setting last night. Got home too late from work. Hope to work on it tonight or at least tomorrow.

monkeyracing - When I took apart my V2 the other week to overhaul the gearbox (excessive noise), the teeth were pretty much worn out, especially on the smaller gear (counter gear? the one that connects the diff and spur) and the pinion.

The ball diff teeth was okay, but took it apart to clean and re-grease.

This was only after less than 3 months of driving. I think the Tamiya ceramic grease dries out too quickly due to the large motor heat sink causing the internal temp to rise.

What grease do you guys recommend I use next time in the V2?

My M05 with about 2 months of hard driving had minimal teeth wear, grease was still nicely wet and applied on the gears.
__________________
4PKS-R, DX4S, EX-5UR: Sabre4WD Mini, SabreFD Mini, M01, M02, M03, M04, M05 (2), M05ProV2, TA05 M-Four, CupRacer, BSR M-Rage, WR02, GF01 (2), CC01 (2), CW01, CR01, DF02, TT02B, TA02, RS4, MicroRS4, MR01, MR03-S (2), MR03VE, DigiQ (7), & more.. Updates of projects I am working on in my profile page.
sakadachi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2015, 10:13 AM   #23186
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Dorset,UK
Posts: 128
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sakadachi View Post
BILKO1- I glue the insides as well, but probably not necessary.
Thank you.
__________________
Zen RSGT, Trinity, Hobbywing, LRP.
M05 S-Spec, LRP, Intellect.
M05 v2 Tekin, Orion, Savox.
B44 Mamba Max, Trakpower.
B44.2 Avid chassis, Speed Passion, Gens Ace.
BILKO1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2015, 10:21 AM   #23187
Tech Elite
 
axle182's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 3,784
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to axle182
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BILKO1 View Post
When glueing the front sidewalls do you guys just do the outside?
No, it doesn't work, it will provide even less steering and front grip, id definitely advise against it. Your adding the CA to the outside only, so you can control the flipping. If you glue the inside, you have less steering, less drive from the corner, all together a bad deal.
__________________
Aaron "AJ" Freind
axle182 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2015, 10:22 AM   #23188
Tech Adept
 
Samich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 160
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MD View Post
I recently purchased a used M05 V.2. It has unattached sway bars, but no instructions for installing them. Does anyone know where I could get a copy of the installation instructions? Thanks.
Are the M05V2 swaybars different from the V1? If not, here you go:
Attached Files
File Type: pdf M05_Stabilizer_Set.pdf (481.4 KB, 60 views)
Samich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2015, 10:56 AM   #23189
Tech Champion
 
monkeyracing's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SnowMexico
Posts: 6,106
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sakadachi View Post
monkeyracing - When I took apart my V2 the other week to overhaul the gearbox (excessive noise), the teeth were pretty much worn out, especially on the smaller gear (counter gear? the one that connects the diff and spur) and the pinion.
Look at your pinion. It's probably gone all italic and pointy, right? Get a Robinson, Kawada, or some other aftermarket, hardened pinion. You'll rarely need to change a spur after that.
monkeyracing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2015, 11:00 AM   #23190
Tech Elite
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,274
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Look at your pinion. It's probably gone all italic and pointy, right? Get a Robinson, Kawada, or some other aftermarket, hardened pinion. You'll rarely need to change a spur after that.
Thanks, monkeyracing. Yes the pinion was like that, but so was the smaller gear between the diff and spur gear. I am pretty sure it wore due to dried Tamiya ceramic grease.

Do you guys have any recommendation for the gear grease to prevent this dryness? It needs to be something that can withstand heat from the motor heat sink.
__________________
4PKS-R, DX4S, EX-5UR: Sabre4WD Mini, SabreFD Mini, M01, M02, M03, M04, M05 (2), M05ProV2, TA05 M-Four, CupRacer, BSR M-Rage, WR02, GF01 (2), CC01 (2), CW01, CR01, DF02, TT02B, TA02, RS4, MicroRS4, MR01, MR03-S (2), MR03VE, DigiQ (7), & more.. Updates of projects I am working on in my profile page.
sakadachi is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Tamiya Mini Cooper M-03L Hop-ups mini71 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 8 01-12-2017 04:48 AM
Tamiya Mini Cooper mach51 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 10 09-01-2011 11:08 PM
FS:TAMIYA Mini Cooper, TA 04S rthmotorsports R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 4 10-20-2007 08:37 PM
Tamiya 415 MSX and M03 Mini Cooper F/S Racer X79 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 14 12-22-2006 06:38 AM
Tamiya M01,02,03, or 04 Mini Cooper ccugolf.com R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 2 12-05-2004 07:55 PM


Tags
m03, m03r ules, m05, mini, tamiya


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 5 (1 members and 4 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:42 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net