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Old 11-27-2014, 11:24 AM   #22501
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Will the M05 V2 "A parts" http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54605 bolt right up to an old M05 and allow you to run a square shorty?
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Old 11-27-2014, 12:31 PM   #22502
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when you do, don't forget to glue the sidewalls
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Old 11-27-2014, 12:53 PM   #22503
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Will the M05 V2 "A parts" http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54605 bolt right up to an old M05 and allow you to run a square shorty?
This has been answered a number of times. I haven't done it myself, but this is what others have said.

Converting m05 to m05 pro ver2:
- A parts are a direct changeover
- motor mount should also be changed to m05 ver 2 type. (Although some don't bother)
- arms can also be changed to take advantage of the droop adjustments.
- if you want to run a standard square pack but don't want to use tape, m03 C parts can be used to hold the battery. Some small modification is required.
- use a small amount of foam inside the A part of the chassis to help stop the battery moving around.

Hope this helps.
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Old 11-27-2014, 12:55 PM   #22504
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Originally Posted by Jordan Anderson View Post
Will the M05 V2 "A parts" http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54605 bolt right up to an old M05 and allow you to run a square shorty?
Yep. You should get the lower arms, too. Having the droop adjustment makes setup easier. Just build full length shocks (or have Draggerdude build 'em) and adjust ride height with the screws.

Speaking of this, does anyone know when TQ might be seeing some of these? I've been running without spares since June and I'm nervous as hell!

EDIT: This is interesting "84405 - RC Aluminum Parts Set - M05 Ver.II Black Anodized" Could I finally rid myself of all the blue???
Jim
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Last edited by monkeyracing; 11-27-2014 at 01:06 PM.
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Old 11-27-2014, 01:42 PM   #22505
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Are most of the blue/silver/red aluminum and carbon "hop-ups"/bling parts the same between the M05 and M05 V2?
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Old 11-27-2014, 01:47 PM   #22506
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
(or have Draggerdude build 'em)
As long as it doesn't require thread lock...
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Old 11-27-2014, 02:11 PM   #22507
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on a v2, what parts should you have spares.. or ost likely to break... I was
thinking CVD...
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Old 11-27-2014, 03:12 PM   #22508
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on a v2, what parts should you have spares.. or ost likely to break... I was
thinking CVD...
I have been running the v2 since it came out. I would keep front and rear hubs and front c blocks. I also keep a spare gear set in my box at all times.
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Old 11-27-2014, 04:15 PM   #22509
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Default Front tyre options

Ok guys. So we are trying to revive our mini class a little. Helping new comers out with setup whilst trying to keep the tyre cost down. We have decided on a gentlemans agreement not to run sweeps. This is on fairly low grip Tarmac. After some opinions to test on what people would choose for a front tyre. Ride 3035 will last forever but hard to get them to turn in. Also tried the tp36's but that just over grips the front. We are after something that works well but you get more than one night out of

Thanks
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Old 11-28-2014, 12:54 AM   #22510
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Yep. You should get the lower arms, too. Having the droop adjustment makes setup easier. Just build full length shocks (or have Draggerdude build 'em) and adjust ride height with the screws.

Jim
In TC cars, the ground clearance is regulated with shock preload, not by droop screws. Is it different in the M05 pro v2?
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Old 11-28-2014, 04:03 AM   #22511
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In TC cars, the ground clearance is regulated with shock preload, not by droop screws. Is it different in the M05 pro v2?
No, it's the same as TC, with the exception being that the droop can only be adjusted from underneath at present on the V2.
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Old 11-28-2014, 01:49 PM   #22512
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In TC cars, the ground clearance is regulated with shock preload, not by droop screws. Is it different in the M05 pro v2?
I guess there's a little of both involved. I got a TC fairly recently, but haven't messed with it at all, so perhaps I'm off base.

My thinking is based around the idea that I've always built dampers to a specific length. In minis, with limited dampers and very little suspension movement, ride height and droop end up being almost synonymous. So, I've usually used shock length, in this case controlled by droop screws, to set ride height and the adjustable collars for pre-load. The only downside I can see is I'm probably putting excess pressure on the points where the droop screws meet the chassis.

Anyone care to straighten me up on this and tell me there's a better/proper way? I'd be happy to learn more.
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Old 11-28-2014, 02:16 PM   #22513
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
I guess there's a little of both involved. I got a TC fairly recently, but haven't messed with it at all, so perhaps I'm off base.

My thinking is based around the idea that I've always built dampers to a specific length. In minis, with limited dampers and very little suspension movement, ride height and droop end up being almost synonymous. So, I've usually used shock length, in this case controlled by droop screws, to set ride height and the adjustable collars for pre-load. The only downside I can see is I'm probably putting excess pressure on the points where the droop screws meet the chassis.

Anyone care to straighten me up on this and tell me there's a better/proper way? I'd be happy to learn more.
If you set the droop so that the spring has not completely relaxed before hitting the droop setting, then the effective spring rate at the tire contact patch instantly jumps to a huge value, decreasing traction. That can make for some dodgy handling, especially on a rough track. It can also be used to advantage, especially on a smooth track with high traction.

Be careful when using restricted droop on the rear end, as this will tend to make it break loose unpredictably.
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Old 11-28-2014, 02:23 PM   #22514
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Is there a picture of the M05 V2 droop screws somewhere? I've looked around, but I can't find an image that shows how the droop screws on the V2 work.

Anyone got a good pic?
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Old 11-28-2014, 03:51 PM   #22515
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If you set the droop so that the spring has not completely relaxed before hitting the droop setting, then the effective spring rate at the tire contact patch instantly jumps to a huge value, decreasing traction. That can make for some dodgy handling, especially on a rough track. It can also be used to advantage, especially on a smooth track with high traction.

Be careful when using restricted droop on the rear end, as this will tend to make it break loose unpredictably.
Thanks Howard. Hey, your name came up in a conversation I was having with someone last week. Small world.

Jordan, are you coming to Karz on Sunday? I can show the droop setup then.
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