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Old 11-15-2014, 02:25 AM   #22366
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Simplest solution is to choose one set of the Tamiya springs to work with and build your setup around them. I use the short blacks, so even though they are a different winding to other springs, I know which are harder and softer.
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Old 11-15-2014, 07:41 AM   #22367
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I know this is way off topic for this but does anyone run gt-3 in the tcs on here
I'll take it off the list if anyone can answer my quick question
Mike
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Old 11-15-2014, 10:26 AM   #22368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KA2AEV View Post
I know this is way off topic for this but does anyone run gt-3 in the tcs on here
I'll take it off the list if anyone can answer my quick question
Mike
Mike - shoot me a pm or email and I'll see what I can do to help you out
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Old 11-15-2014, 02:21 PM   #22369
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might change to the M06.. but i read that ithas a lot of understeer...
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Old 11-15-2014, 04:10 PM   #22370
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might change to the M06.. but i read that ithas a lot of understeer...
Mine is pretty well balanced. Being correct wheel drive, you are better off with a little understeer than oversteer though.
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Old 11-15-2014, 07:26 PM   #22371
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Mine is pretty well balanced. Being correct wheel drive, you are better off with a little understeer than oversteer though.
Any weight added in the frontor anywhere else?
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Old 11-15-2014, 08:23 PM   #22372
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Any weight added in the front or anywhere else?
I wasn't talking weight balanced. I guess I should have said neutral handling. It's definitely heavier in the rear. Mine is the M06R and the kit came with some weights that are on the rear axle.

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Old 11-15-2014, 11:55 PM   #22373
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Had the first run on my new V2 and oh God what was I thinking. I tried some ideas and I paid for it. Time now to pull out the old V1 setup sheet and start with a setup that does work.

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Old 11-16-2014, 07:27 AM   #22374
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Setup is the same v1 to v2. It's just accomplished a little differently - droop screws instead of internal shock spacers, for example. Running a short pack is what makes the difference and makes the setup work better.
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Old 11-16-2014, 03:07 PM   #22375
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Last friday somebody crashed into my car and suddenly I saw my rear wheel flying away.
It came loose with the axle *and* the two ball bearings, meaning somehow it pulled the rear bearing straight through the plastic rear hub.
Installed it again and it seems fine, but I'm kind of worried my wheel can come loose again - if it managed to pull through the plastic once it could happen again, right ?

Has this happened to anybody else or is this a once in a lifetime thing ?
(Or to rephrase - would this be the moment to buy the aluminum upgrade ? )
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Old 11-16-2014, 03:29 PM   #22376
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Oh and for other beginners like me who just start reading this thread :

I built the kit M05 Pro V2, put in on the carpet and in almost every corner the rear would spin out / break loose to put me in a nice 180 / 360.

I thought I'd need to fix that by buying / using tire traction compound on the rear and/or using less droop on the rear.

People at the track told me the first thing I needed to do was actually to put CA-glue on the side wall of the front tires - a lot, right up until where the tire goes completely horizontal.

Somehow this wasn't very intuitive to me - I figured I had a problem with the rear, so how was glue on the front tires going to fix my spin-outs ?
So they convinced me to use their glued tires just to try it out - and boy was I convinced immediately - suddenly I could actually drive complete laps without any spins or oversteer !

Theory as was explained to me is that it took just enough traction away from the front wheels while cornering, that the rear doesn't need to break out. But enough traction left to actually take the corners.

I assume the experienced drivers here will probably correct anything in this post if I'm wrong, but all I want to say is -
if you have problems with the rear breaking loose while cornering, try gluing your front tire-walls before you try anything more expensive / difficult
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Old 11-16-2014, 04:42 PM   #22377
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Pygmy, it's funny you posted this as this is exactly what I dealt with yesterday at the track. Interesting but does follow the typical mini train of thinking. Everything that seems counter intuitive seems to be what works.

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Old 11-16-2014, 06:54 PM   #22378
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Well, after screwing up my 3Racing diff while rebuilding it last week, I decided to chuck a Tech Racing spool in my M05. It disintegrated during my first heat on Saturday morning. I threw in a fresh, properly built TA03 ball diff. It lasted beautifully through 3 more qualies, but gave up the ghost during the mains this afternoon. I still managed a 3rd place in the B, with one wheel "sort of" drive! It's a bad week to be a differential near me.

So, got home and got a totally unrelated idea: What do you do with your old hard case, stick pack lipos when they're no good anymore? I usually pop them open, soak the innards in salt water for a few weeks and keep the shell. I can't stand the idea of throwing them out for some reason. Anyway, I needed a power distribution block and I've got all these binding posts and bits of copper hanging around, so I made what i needed. I'll probably replace the binding posts with something that can handle more power soon, but it's not bad for a first try.


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Old 11-16-2014, 07:51 PM   #22379
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Monkey, Glad I am not the only one that had that problem this weekend. That was my other issue with the V2 yesterday. My puttied gear diff went from locked up proper to feeling like a normal gear diff then back again off and on all day. So that too is on the list of things to take care of on the new car.

Jason

P.S. How did the TA03 diff give out?
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Old 11-16-2014, 08:51 PM   #22380
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Just took it out. Diff is fine. The pin in the CVD joint gave up, gave the dog bone room to move and the outdrive slid out. I guess the notched CVD pins are only bulletproof if you make sure they stay tightened down. My bad! Too much fun, not enough attention to detail.
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