R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-09-2014, 10:06 AM   #22201
Tech Elite
 
niznai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: All over the place
Posts: 2,735
Default

Any signs after some runtime of gears rubbing on the sides of the g'box?

I would try to make my own shafts anyway. It all sounds like the shafts are too short and the g'box pinches the bearings.
__________________
Team Greasy Weasel

The best upgrade to any car is some driver skill.
niznai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2014, 11:04 AM   #22202
Tech Adept
 
marcos graveyar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Newtownforbes, Ireland
Posts: 210
Send a message via AIM to marcos graveyar
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
I've been wondering about this binding/noise when the screws are snugged down. Is this more of a problem with the v2 revision? I've been running with the motor screws really loose - so loose they've been falling out. I saw a little relief with a few gearbox screws loosened by a thread. Is this just a misalignment issue with the gearbox plastics?
Are you sure you have the motor screws in correctly ?
The V2 uses 2 spacers (BB14 5.5x1.5mm) on the motor screws to allow for the offset in the chassis/motorplate.
marcos graveyar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2014, 11:07 AM   #22203
Tech Champion
 
monkeyracing's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SnowMexico
Posts: 5,836
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

I've not seen any signs of wear in the gearbox. It seems the motor plate/motor/pinion is being pulled out of alignment when properly tightened. I tried adjusting the screws individually, but they both create the same effect. Could be an initial production glitch, like the steering mounting point.

I had a few 03 chassis that did this.
monkeyracing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2014, 12:33 PM   #22204
Tech Elite
 
niznai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: All over the place
Posts: 2,735
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
I've not seen any signs of wear in the gearbox. It seems the motor plate/motor/pinion is being pulled out of alignment when properly tightened. I tried adjusting the screws individually, but they both create the same effect. Could be an initial production glitch, like the steering mounting point.

I had a few 03 chassis that did this.
Can you perhaps enlarge the holes a bit and use a sleeve around the screws to limit chassis compression?
__________________
Team Greasy Weasel

The best upgrade to any car is some driver skill.
niznai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2014, 01:15 PM   #22205
Tech Champion
 
monkeyracing's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SnowMexico
Posts: 5,836
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by marcos graveyar View Post
Are you sure you have the motor screws in correctly ?
The V2 uses 2 spacers (BB14 5.5x1.5mm) on the motor screws to allow for the offset in the chassis/motorplate.
Yeah, those are just to keep the screws out of the motor windings, I think.

Quote:
Originally Posted by niznai View Post
Can you perhaps enlarge the holes a bit and use a sleeve around the screws to limit chassis compression?
Interesting idea. I'm not that motivated, though.

Anyway, I swapped out the carbon gear shafts for the stock steel ones and it got quite a bit quieter. I'll go with that for now.
__________________
Stab it and steer.
monkeyracing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2014, 05:51 AM   #22206
Tech Elite
 
caltek1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,354
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Jim,
I have had no issues with my MO5 V2 with the gears or motor screws. I have used what was indicated in the instructions. I also use the alloy thin plate to prevent dirt getting into the gearbox and motor. I put the screws through first, place the alloy plate then screw the motor in, using the spacers on the motor screws.
My gearbox is nice and smooth. I am using the standard steel shafts with the normal white gears, with the TOP racing oil gear diff with 300 000 weight oil. This works well and still gives good forward bite and steering.
For those who have complained about a lack of rear end grip, perhaps you need to consider smaller hexes, 4 mm or 5mm and making sure not to have to much negative rear camber. I find 1.5 degrees of rear camber seems to work best for the tyre combination I run, which is adjusted by the changing the spacer width on the rear upper link.
Later,
Calvin
caltek1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2014, 02:30 PM   #22207
Tech Master
 
eR1c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,312
Default

I have read through most all of the posts on this thread, and have checked out what setup sheets I can find (only like 2).

I have a question about tires.
Our race / club season has just ended, but thinking about what to try for next season, etc. We run on asphalt, it is usually high grip. I ran Tamiya slicks on all 4 all year (our rules state you must run Tamiya wheels and tires). Has anyone tried going with S-Grips on front and slicks on back? Just thinking the S-Grips may dig in a bit more and get better acceleration out of corners and forward grip? ...I kind of think i've heard this but can anyone confirm. Does this sound reasonable, would it be beneficial? I can always try it out in a qualifying race.
eR1c is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2014, 05:09 PM   #22208
Tech Master
 
eR1c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,312
Default

nevermind, found the answer on page 1189 of this thread.
eR1c is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2014, 11:42 PM   #22209
Tech Champion
 
monkeyracing's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SnowMexico
Posts: 5,836
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Anyone know where to get rebuild parts for the 3Racing gear diff, or even just the blades for the outdrives? Seems to be out of stock or discontinued everywhere I usually look. How about any other blades that will fit?

EDIT: Discovered something interesting about my M05 tonight. The gearbox actually gets tighter as it heats up during a race. Before the race, smooth as silk. After a race, noisy with extra friction. Let it cool, loosens up. Very weird. Seems the tolerances are much tighter than in the past. I may file a tiny bit of material from the bosses where the gear shafts mount. to see if that alleviates a little pressure.

Last edited by monkeyracing; 10-11-2014 at 01:28 AM.
monkeyracing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2014, 12:36 AM   #22210
Tech Elite
 
niznai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: All over the place
Posts: 2,735
Default

Try Tamiya TC (TRF) blades.
__________________
Team Greasy Weasel

The best upgrade to any car is some driver skill.
niznai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2014, 07:58 PM   #22211
Tech Champion
 
monkeyracing's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SnowMexico
Posts: 5,836
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Found some Xray pn 305241. They fit!
__________________
Stab it and steer.
monkeyracing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2014, 09:34 PM   #22212
Tech Fanatic
 
Madulla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Calgary
Posts: 982
Default

Jim you can use 3racing Sakura Zero diff parts/rebuild kits
__________________
Hobbywing North America Team Driver
hobbywingdirect.com

CARCAR VP carcar.ca
Madulla is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2014, 11:59 PM   #22213
Tech Elite
 
niznai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: All over the place
Posts: 2,735
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Found some Xray pn 305241. They fit!
Sort of. The Xray outdrives are 7mm id whereas everybody else has 6. That is because their driveshafts have a 7mm ball end, hence the blades are a bit larger and may slide around on the Tamiya ball ends.
__________________
Team Greasy Weasel

The best upgrade to any car is some driver skill.
niznai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2014, 07:15 PM   #22214
Tech Adept
 
Heathen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Nanaimo
Posts: 174
Default

do you cut your foams in your Tamiya M grip tires?
__________________
Addicted since 1995!!
VBC D07
MTS FF Pro
Calandra 1/12 XTi
Tamiya Clod Buster

Last edited by Heathen; 10-13-2014 at 07:33 PM.
Heathen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2014, 11:28 PM   #22215
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Heathen View Post
do you cut your foams in your Tamiya M grip tires?
If you are referring to the Tamiya foam inserts, no, you do not. If you shorten them, the tires will come out "softer". Just take the inserts and glue the ends together with contact cement. Do not build your tires without glueing the ends together. Also do not use cyano to do this or you'll get a hard spot.

Hope this helps.
Granpa is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Tamiya Mini Cooper M-03L Hop-ups mini71 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 4 05-04-2016 11:07 AM
Tamiya Mini Cooper mach51 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 10 09-02-2011 12:08 AM
FS:TAMIYA Mini Cooper, TA 04S rthmotorsports R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 4 10-20-2007 09:37 PM
Tamiya 415 MSX and M03 Mini Cooper F/S Racer X79 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 14 12-22-2006 07:38 AM
Tamiya M01,02,03, or 04 Mini Cooper ccugolf.com R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 2 12-05-2004 08:55 PM


Tags
m03, m03r ules, m05, mini, tamiya


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:53 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0