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Old 09-30-2014, 10:31 AM   #22156
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Another area you can fix is the slop at each ballstud/cup. Place an o-ring over each ballstud and it will stop the cup from wiggling around as much. There's only a tiny bit of slop in each, but the cumulative effect is dramatic. You can get 0.5 x 3mm teflon shims for the upper suspension joints, too.

You'll never get it all out permanently. A few hard races and it will be back. The plastics are soft and designed to deform a little, rather than break. Take out the slop from the linkage, maybe some of the side to side from the axles and use decent bearings, but don't worry about the rest.
That is just a band aid (monkey business) and doesn't actually affect the slop component that makes the steering err - sloppy.

Which is the component in the horizontal plane (along the tie rods for instance). Just hold the servo still and move the steering knuckle by hand (to eliminate the play in the kingpins and bearings). You will see lots of play being taken up in every balljoint not because they move up and down, but sideways.

Using tight fitting balljoints is the only solution here.

Tamiya has brought now on the market the fluorine coated balls for their TRF cars with the grey cups that have no slop at all and are very smooth indeed.

But they are as always late at the table.

Yokomo, HPI, Xray, (not to mention innumerable heli and airplane companies) and so on have had slop free balljoints since before Granpa was a baby. Use any of these and you'll see the difference.

Tamiya's items are of course the exxxye$t. They'll charge you over 50$ for all the balljoint hardware you need for the whole car, and this is if you buy from cheap places in HK.

Even on their top of the range TRF kits (I have a few) the fluorine coated balls are supplied only for the lower shock joint (that is four a kit!), the rest you buy at your own expense. I counted mine and I used 20 extra. That is five sets (they come in five per set) at I think 8$ a pop, that's how much? 40$. And I didn't have to buy the cups.
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Last edited by niznai; 09-30-2014 at 10:43 AM.
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Old 09-30-2014, 04:21 PM   #22157
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I would like the ball diff to perform like a gear diff with anti wear grease. Not too stiff but I want to slow down the car "diffing" out on corner exit. I built the m05 diff with the same anti wear grease and I did like how it performed, at least untill the screw loosened and in my rush to fix I guess I tightened it too much and crushed the thrust bearing.

Will the trf bearing resist crushing better?
If the answer is to switch to the 2.5 screw setup, does anyone have a part number and prcedure?
Or, does anyone have a way to slow down the diff action with the stock gear diff, not useing fluids that will leak out.

Thanks
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Old 09-30-2014, 09:48 PM   #22158
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I was wonderin what is a good 21.5 motor for mini?

Our club was silver can, both 21.5/silver can and now just 21.5.
I was making 21.5s look silly all day long with my silvercan.
Now I cannot keep the pace with other guys 21.5 motors.
I ended up with a revtech RPM Stator and Lt blue rotor, I am respectible but lackin the RPMs other have.
Is there a better motor setup, perhaps with more timing?

Thanks Gents.
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Old 09-30-2014, 10:31 PM   #22159
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monkey likes some pepto pink.
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Old 10-01-2014, 12:35 AM   #22160
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monkey likes some pepto pink.
Hell yeah! Makes it easier for me to spot in a sea of fancy paint jobs. No one else around here is running a Barbie car.
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Old 10-01-2014, 05:55 PM   #22161
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I'm sorry if this has already been asked/answered, but does anyone know if and when tamiya release the part A chassis replacement for the m05 pro v2, will it be compatible with the standard m05 kit. The reason I ask is because I'd love to be able to run just one type of battery for all my cars. It would make life much simpler. I'd also like to know this before I buy anymore batteries.
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Old 10-02-2014, 02:11 AM   #22162
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Ryan,

I sent you a pm.

Regards

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Old 10-02-2014, 04:42 AM   #22163
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I'm sorry if this has already been asked/answered, but does anyone know if and when tamiya release the part A chassis replacement for the m05 pro v2, will it be compatible with the standard m05 kit. The reason I ask is because I'd love to be able to run just one type of battery for all my cars. It would make life much simpler. I'd also like to know this before I buy anymore batteries.
Yep the parts will be release very soon, I think they are out next week in japan so should be available everywhere else pretty soon.
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Old 10-03-2014, 02:33 AM   #22164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Qatmix View Post
Yep the parts will be release very soon, I think they are out next week in japan so should be available everywhere else pretty soon.
The M05 V2 parts aren't due for release until mid-November.
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Old 10-06-2014, 01:11 AM   #22165
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Well, end of an era for me this weekend. I threw away a truly frightening amount of slightly bagged out M03 chassis parts, packed away the good bits and resigned my M04 to shelf queen duty. Besides really enjoying the M05 V2, I've used up the last bit of life from my remaining lipo stick pack. Can't justify buying another. I made note of some of the interesting old stuff as I bixed it up. M04 sway bars, a one way in an m chassis diff case, loads of weird battery holders and bumpers (Tech, Square, Yeah, etc) a few sets of the old TL01/M03 front uprights, M03 carbon servo brace, various carbon shock towers...

Going to commit to a single M this season, plus my TC, F1 and buggy. Weird.
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Old 10-06-2014, 10:23 AM   #22166
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Two items,

1) Last month I was asking about how to get my M05 to handle better. Thank you all for your help and Granpa who PM'd me some great tips. Previously I could not get above the 3rd or 4th spot, usually coming in 4th or 5th (out of about 10). With the tips given and also changing my body my car felt really planted. Our track can be sticky and my car would roll over if I pushed it hard enough. Not this past weekend. I was able to actually get a #2 spot in qualifying and #4 in the mains (realize the mains are all that count). But getting a #2 was a first for me and my #4 felt really good. The top guys are really good, I felt I was right on their heels the entire race.

At this point I think it is just their skill level that is keeping me from catching them. Also my car was diffing out a bit. I have a ball diff' but this is where I was losing some momentum. Again, this may be my technique in stopping too hard. W my TC car I can push hard on the brakes and accelerator w/ no issue. W/ the Mini I think I need to finesse it a bit more and let it roll through the corners to keep that momentum. I was doing that but need to be consistent w/ not braking but rather rolling through hard corners. All in all I am pleased w/ my setup though. It feels right. Thank you all for your help!

2) we are switching to 21t brushless next year, this was asked a few posts ago. Is there a recommended setup? Any favorite motor/esc combos (roar and tcs legal).
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Old 10-06-2014, 12:33 PM   #22167
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Does anyone know for sure if the m03 is illegal for use in the 2015 tcs series?
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Old 10-06-2014, 01:07 PM   #22168
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I do not believe the rules have been made official for 2015 or made public. So anything would be conjecture at this point.
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Old 10-07-2014, 01:43 AM   #22169
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Being new to tamiya mini do a ball diff in m05 inprove the perfomance of the car (speed wise) thanks.
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Old 10-07-2014, 04:54 AM   #22170
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The ball diff won't improve top speed, but it can make a big difference to cornering speed. It's a huge part of tuning a Mini's handling. Depends on your intended use.
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