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Old 09-29-2014, 08:59 AM   #22141
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Tamiya is just stubborn trying to stick with the 2mm screw in the M05 (touring car - style) ball diff. You can upgrade that to a 2.5mm screw but it takes a bit of, ummm- screwing around. That'll hold pressure properly.
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Old 09-29-2014, 10:45 AM   #22142
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Tamiya is just stubborn trying to stick with the 2mm screw in the M05 (touring car - style) ball diff. You can upgrade that to a 2.5mm screw but it takes a bit of, ummm- screwing around. That'll hold pressure properly.
What you're saying is probably true, but I have neither the talent, time, or equipment to do this properly. Also finding a 2.5mm screw of the proper length is very difficult. Anyway, another big problem is the thrust bearing getting "dirty" very easily. Had a discussion on this with another poster about this a while back and he was right and I was wrong. Grit can work into the diff quite easily. I didn't think it could.

The M05 ball diff works really well, but requires constant attention and rebuilding. Just not worth my time if acceptable or superior diffs are available.
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Old 09-29-2014, 05:43 PM   #22143
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Hi guys, is it normal to have slop in the steering? I have upgraded to the tamiya alloy steering link with bearings, but it just seem loose no matter how much I tighten the screws. Also there is a lot of play between the wheel hex and the hub. Is this bad? How do I fix it?
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Old 09-29-2014, 07:51 PM   #22144
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Work, work, work...
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:45 PM   #22145
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
What you're saying is probably true, but I have neither the talent, time, or equipment to do this properly. Also finding a 2.5mm screw of the proper length is very difficult. Anyway, another big problem is the thrust bearing getting "dirty" very easily. Had a discussion on this with another poster about this a while back and he was right and I was wrong. Grit can work into the diff quite easily. I didn't think it could.

The M05 ball diff works really well, but requires constant attention and rebuilding. Just not worth my time if acceptable or superior diffs are available.
Tamiya changed the diffs in their own TC cars shortly after the M05 came out to take a 2.5mm screw (and for the same reason), so it shouldn't be that difficult to find one, including all the rest of the hardware needed to upgrade the diff. Not to mention the endless suppliers of metric hardware over there that put ours to shame.

With a 2.5mm screw, the M05 diff becomes reliable and it's easy to adjust the tension as designed.

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Old 09-29-2014, 11:32 PM   #22146
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Tamiya changed the diffs in their own TC cars shortly after the M05 came out to take a 2.5mm screw (and for the same reason), so it shouldn't be that difficult to find one, including all the rest of the hardware needed to upgrade the diff. Not to mention the endless suppliers of metric hardware over there that put ours to shame.

With a 2.5mm screw, the M05 diff becomes reliable and it's easy to adjust the tension as designed.
Did not know that. In that case by all means try that remedy. My preference is still the TA03 diff cause it will stay smooth and not become "gritty" in a short time. Present diffs in the cars I usually race were last rebuilt over a year ago. The one in my M05 was done over 2 years ago. All 3 are still slicker than snot.

Just relating my experiences with the M05 diff. Never ever broke a 416 diff screw cause I never run a really tight diff. Just had to rebuild them frequently. If you feel the M05 diff is superior, by all means use it. Most of the "fast" guys here abandoned them some time ago.
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Old 09-29-2014, 11:42 PM   #22147
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Hi Jim,

What do you think of the Blitz Jazz body and do you fit the included wing? I personnally like the Blitz VW GTI body shell without the wing over the Audi Rs 1 body. I have a Jazz, just not painted up yet.

Waiting for some feedback.

Regards,

Calvin.
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Old 09-30-2014, 12:11 AM   #22148
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Hi Jim,

What do you think of the Blitz Jazz body and do you fit the included wing? I personnally like the Blitz VW GTI body shell without the wing over the Audi Rs 1 body. I have a Jazz, just not painted up yet.

Waiting for some feedback.

Regards,

Calvin.
I'm using the wing and I like this shell. (note the above picture) More importantly, some guys who are much better drivers than me like it. I can't really describe why, but it just seems to work well. Better than the RS1 by far. I've not tried the GTI.

Good balance, steers well, fairly lightweight and cheap. Also, it looks good in bubblegum pink.
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Old 09-30-2014, 12:43 AM   #22149
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Hi guys, is it normal to have slop in the steering? I have upgraded to the tamiya alloy steering link with bearings, but it just seem loose no matter how much I tighten the screws. Also there is a lot of play between the wheel hex and the hub. Is this bad? How do I fix it?
Have you upgraded the other parts as well?

Plastic steering is poor. Alloy steering is a lot better but there is still some freedom of movement in the ball joints.

I shim the wheel axles to remove that play.
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Old 09-30-2014, 01:33 AM   #22150
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If you want a slop free mini you need to upgrade all the balljoints and even then I am not sure you won't have play in the kingpins and suspension hinge pins. there will also be play in the wheel bearings, even if you shim the axles simply because the plastic hubs are not that close in tolerance. Some better quality bearings might reduce that (try Xray) but then the bearings still wobble inside the hubs with axle and everything even if you use bearing spacers inside the hub, between the wheel bearings (I do that). Not a bad idea, but mini aficionados say slop is part of the equation. TC people with OCD like myself prefer minimum slop and it works very well but it's a lot more effort.
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Old 09-30-2014, 01:37 AM   #22151
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Did not know that. In that case by all means try that remedy. My preference is still the TA03 diff cause it will stay smooth and not become "gritty" in a short time. Present diffs in the cars I usually race were last rebuilt over a year ago. The one in my M05 was done over 2 years ago. All 3 are still slicker than snot.

Just relating my experiences with the M05 diff. Never ever broke a 416 diff screw cause I never run a really tight diff. Just had to rebuild them frequently. If you feel the M05 diff is superior, by all means use it. Most of the "fast" guys here abandoned them some time ago.
TC ball diffs take the same skill to build properly (not unlike the TA03 diff). You need patience and experience, but I think if they can run in mod TC they're more than good enough for minis. The tension adjustment is more subtle than on a mini, and that's probably where things don't always get nailed down properly, but I prefer these. Fine adjustments are easier.

Tamiya was the last major manufacturer to change to 2.5mm diff screws (and proper thrust bearings). Xray always had them, others changed earlier. Corally had some really nice big screws like the one on the TA03 diff and large thrust bearings for yonks.
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Old 09-30-2014, 06:20 AM   #22152
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Have you upgraded the other parts as well?

Plastic steering is poor. Alloy steering is a lot better but there is still some freedom of movement in the ball joints.

I shim the wheel axles to remove that play.
Which other parts are you referring to? I have alloy hubs, steering link and posts. I'm still using the kit arms and ball connectors. What should I change these to?

What shims should I use to remove the play between the wheel hex and the hub/bearing?
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Old 09-30-2014, 06:34 AM   #22153
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Old 09-30-2014, 08:36 AM   #22154
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Originally Posted by filippimini View Post
Which other parts are you referring to? I have alloy hubs, steering link and posts. I'm still using the kit arms and ball connectors. What should I change these to?

What shims should I use to remove the play between the wheel hex and the hub/bearing?
A fully upgraded Mini steering setup should look like the picture below. Shims are 5mm inside diameter such as Tamiya #53587.
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Tamiya mini cooper-wp_20140930_002.jpg  
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Old 09-30-2014, 10:18 AM   #22155
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Another area you can fix is the slop at each ballstud/cup. Place an o-ring over each ballstud and it will stop the cup from wiggling around as much. There's only a tiny bit of slop in each, but the cumulative effect is dramatic. You can get 0.5 x 3mm teflon shims for the upper suspension joints, too.

You'll never get it all out permanently. A few hard races and it will be back. The plastics are soft and designed to deform a little, rather than break. Take out the slop from the linkage, maybe some of the side to side from the axles and use decent bearings, but don't worry about the rest.
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