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Old 09-26-2014, 09:55 AM   #22126
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My M05 RTR (red) and M05 Pro (green) Mini Coopers.....

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Old 09-26-2014, 12:16 PM   #22127
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If anyone is interested, i'm selling my Mini

Tamiya Mini M05v2 roller
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Old 09-26-2014, 06:01 PM   #22128
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hispeedguy, 21.5T and Silvercan are really different in top speed after what little I know.

But the Pro probably need some TLC for all the adjustment. When you get it right it will perform better.
Not that Stock or Pro are that different.
When both cars have decent dampers they will perform good.
With 60's tires you need to set up the car better I think. And you might just have gotten the stock better together than the Pro.

I had M03 and now have the M05Pro2 and M06 and all of them performed rather poor before I adjusted them better to suite the track.
So I think spings, oil, differential, ball bearings and ride height is important to do properly. And check toe-out / toe-in and camber to be sure it's the same all over.

My cars have really liked rain with the 60's tires. But when it's sunny I don't get the same speed as others.
So I have to adjust it a little more on the dampers and the differential to get the most out of my car. So that it's just me that needs training.....
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Old 09-26-2014, 08:33 PM   #22129
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OK, thanks for the info NoBrainer. I neglected to mention the RTR car does have the Tamiya bearing kit on it instead of the kit plastic bushings.
We're racing indoors on CRC Fasttrack carpet, not outdoors. I will be going over both cars before our next club race next Thursday. I definitely won't run the S-Grips on the front only again. I do think the radio settings need to be tweaked as well. I'm a real noob to the on road scene, so I have a lot to learn.
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Old 09-27-2014, 08:33 PM   #22130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hispeedguy View Post

Q- Do you have to run all same tires at all 4 corners? Front wheel drive is a mystery to me.
3) The RTR car bounced around in the corners pretty good but held the line in corners quite well (to my amazement). I switched the rear stock kit silver rear springs out for gold springs and that settled it down some, but still bouncy. I ran 0 shims in all 4.

Track is a little bumpy, with lowish grip right now, but do expect it to get grippy quickly. They run a lot of 1/12 stock and mod as well as 1/10 WGT on cars there w/ foam tires.

Overall, all 4 of us had a blast wheeling these things and look forward to growing interest and class size quickly. I also have an M06 (stock kit). It should be ready for next Thursday. All stock except CVA shocks.

Thanks for any advice.
Cheers!
Jim

Hi jim welcome to the wonderful world of mini racing
Are you guys running tcs rules minis?
You may want to keep track of what you start with, so if the car really gets out
Of control, you can go back to a basic setup without too much head scratching.
Also you might want to try different springs, I'm not familiar with the gold and silver
Spring colors you mentioned, you may want to go softer in the rear, and a little
Harder up front
On changing the tires, or anything for that fact, before the mains, well, if its working unless you're 100% Positive it'll get better, you leave it
Good luck and keep us informed on your progress
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Old 09-28-2014, 02:34 AM   #22131
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Ah...just another Saturday night, wondering where the hell I put that 0.3mm shim for the steering post. F********************K.

Eventually made one from very fine 0.5mm solder. Squished the extra 0.2mm out of it.
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Old 09-28-2014, 07:47 AM   #22132
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hispeedguy, try a little research. Most of the stuff you need to know is in this thread along with a bit of nonsense. Try going back a hundred pages or so and I'm sure you'll find most of your answers. What you're looking for has been asked and answered many, many times.
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Old 09-28-2014, 10:47 PM   #22133
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Default m05 ball diff

Didn't finish one race today. Had problems with my m05 ball diff loosening so I tightened it back down and I guess I went too tight and crushed the thrust bearing. Did some reading several hundred pages back.
If I replace the thrust bearing and screw and nut with parts out of the 416, this will solve my loosening problem right? Also, if I read correctly, they will also let me run a fairly tight diff as well, or did I misunderstand? Has anyone tried removing the small spacer between the bearings? I was thinking removing it would allow the outdrives to put more pressure on the balls.

Grandpa,
I did all the things you suggested and was able to run several laps at speed without flipping the car every corner. Hope to try changes further next time out, but first results were very good.
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Old 09-29-2014, 03:38 AM   #22134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Ah...just another Saturday night, wondering where the hell I put that 0.3mm shim for the steering post. F********************K.

Eventually made one from very fine 0.5mm solder. Squished the extra 0.2mm out of it.
Try this.

Get some brass sheet from your friendly local hobby shop (they have a mix of small sheet in various thickness) and make your own shims using a run of the mill paper hole punch to cut out the blank and "drilling" a 3mm hole in the middle. I write "drilling" because you don't really need a drill, a basic centre punch will do the job if you rest the sheet on something hard with a 3mm hole underneath (a piece of tube, a 3mm nut, etc).

I make my own shims from washers ground to the right diameter using a lathe and a dremel (load a few on a 3mm machine screw and hold them together with a nut) and then sand them to required thickness by holding them with one of those super powerful magnets and using a number of sandpaper sheets of appropriate grit. It's laborious but yields very good results.
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Old 09-29-2014, 03:45 AM   #22135
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Or you could just use Tamiya's shim sets which come in most sizes and down to 0.1mm thickness.
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Old 09-29-2014, 04:33 AM   #22136
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Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
Or you could just use Tamiya's shim sets which come in most sizes and down to 0.1mm thickness.
I assume he doesn't want to pay Tamiya's prices.

Where I live, they don't even import that stuff, it's so expensive nobody would buy it.
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Old 09-29-2014, 06:38 AM   #22137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
hispeedguy, try a little research. Most of the stuff you need to know is in this thread along with a bit of nonsense. Try going back a hundred pages or so and I'm sure you'll find most of your answers. What you're looking for has been asked and answered many, many times.
Yep, I've been reading for a couple weeks. Already found several useful tips.
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Old 09-29-2014, 07:14 AM   #22138
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Thanks for the ideas, guys. I had begun to trim down a 0.5mm thick washer, but found it a bit tricky to handle. The solder trick worked perfectly, in any case and will hold up indefinitely.
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:18 AM   #22139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hispeedguy View Post
Yep, I've been reading for a couple weeks. Already found several useful tips.
Glad to hear that. You'll be able to narrow down your questions now. That should help in getting the answers you were seeking.
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:55 AM   #22140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncpantherfan View Post
Didn't finish one race today. Had problems with my m05 ball diff loosening so I tightened it back down and I guess I went too tight and crushed the thrust bearing. Did some reading several hundred pages back.
If I replace the thrust bearing and screw and nut with parts out of the 416, this will solve my loosening problem right? Also, if I read correctly, they will also let me run a fairly tight diff as well, or did I misunderstand? Has anyone tried removing the small spacer between the bearings? I was thinking removing it would allow the outdrives to put more pressure on the balls.

Grandpa,
I did all the things you suggested and was able to run several laps at speed without flipping the car every corner. Hope to try changes further next time out, but first results were very good.
The problem with the M05 ball diff is just that. They work just fine if they are in perfect "tune", but they just don't stay that way for long. Rather than wasting more money on the M05 ball diff, replace it with a TA03 ball diff or one of the after market gear diffs. I have no experience with the gear diffs, but am very happy with the TA03 diff.

As far as building the diff properly, just build it per the instructions. The only things I'd add to the instructions is to cinch the diff screw tight and use loctite. I do sand the plates to make sure they are flat and replace the metal balls with ceramic ones. You can tighten the diff by using shims on the diff screw. Usually, 0.3 to 0.4 is plenty.

As far as running a tight diff with the M05 diff, forget it. You're depending on that little diff screw to apply the pressure. The diff was never designed to be run "tight".

This is just my opinion but the obsession to run "tight" diffs is unwarranted. I find that, for me, cars with tight diffs are unpleasant to drive and lack corner speed. Please keep in mind, I run on a relatively large, outdoor, asphalt track and my comments are restricted to that surface.
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