Soupinmycoupe

iTrader: (30)

I totally agree with you grandpa. I agree on BIG ticket items. Like tools, cars, appliances, motorcycles, boats, ceiling material, even toothbrushes.

I would never buy a Hyundai, Kia, Saturn. I've always stuck to toyota, honda, yamaha,
Because i believe that you buy it once, and never again. I dont even believe in buying hybrids because of future battery failures. I drive a TDi. 5 speed. Because automatics are prone to fail.

I feel like if i was racing the regional TCS (or whatever serious league of racing) then i would IMMEDIATELY invest in a killshot/TP/r1wurks motor.

But I'm not- im club racing with a bunch of friends.

Granpa

You're right that there is no reason to overspend. You buy to your needs and buying more quality than you need is a form of foolishness, ego, or I just had to have it.

I'll bet you tho, that someone in the club will buy a top of the line motor and indirectly force everyone else to invest in one also. That's called "racing" and exists at all levels and not just at TCS events.

Soupinmycoupe

iTrader: (30)

I'll catch him on the infield

Qatmix

Hi guys

I have some questions about rear toe.

What is the kit basic rear toe (with the std plastic rear hubs)?
Is the rear toe via the hubs or the plate that fits underneath?
I'm just asking as I would rather buy the aluminium plate to get more ear toe in than isle hop up hubs as I prefer to have the suspension arms as free and light as possible.

Also as an aside, I am going to race on carpet, the rules are basically quite open other than no ball diff / spool and only mini sizes wheels (no TC wheels). I have a mini coupe shell which is long wheelbase, I assume that will give me more weight at the front of the car as a whole which will be good for steering etc., anyone here use that body / wheelbase?

torg

If I were doing mini-TCS... I would also look into a Tamiya BL motor #54275 that was the handout at the nationals and who knows, may just be regulation next year? I am speculating here of course...

ncpantherfan

iTrader: (13)

First race on carpet last weekend and traction roles in every corner unless I slowed way down. I finally borrowed a pair of worn radial tires ant put them on the front. I could at least finish one lap without rolling.
So my question is when fighting traction roll, do I go stiffer or softer with springs? And what other settings should I change? Also, what effect does firmer and softer tire inserts have on handling?
Thanks

bosschick

Thank you

marcos graveyar

You need to glue the outside wall of the tyre. Make sure your shocks have enough droop built in to them.

BILKO1

Raced my M05 v2 yesterday for the first time at a local indoor championship, won all 3 qualifiers and both finals by a lap made a mistake by using the 3racing speed tuned gears the first 2 qualifiers but changed to the black Tamiya ones and got a better fastest lap. Very impressed with the handling and stability but towards the end of the meeting when traction was high it did grip roll a few times.

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

have a question about the Tamiya "M" bodies.

Curious if there is a consensus about which is best?
I did some research, the old school mini body is among the tallest, whereas the honda S800 body is one of the lowest at a full inch lower (speaking of height of the body not the chassis). Wouldn't a taller body lend itself to chassis roll?
Also, the CRX body and JCW MINI body seem to be the most aerodynamic (just in my opinion based off looks). Wouldn't this help them keep better top end speed on straights?

We are still running silvercans for the rest of this season, but switch to brushless 21t next race season. thinking that as we go to brushless the speeds will increase slightly making aerodynamics more of an issue??

Just wondering if I should switch from the old school Mini body to something like the CRX or Honda S800 for racing? -I am placing in the upper 3-5 spots out of 10-15 guys. ...but losing it on the straights (wondering about aerodynamics) and notice I still have a bit more body roll than the top couple spots (thinking of a taller body vs lower body).

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Hey guys, wondering if anyone knows of a rough equivalent to Tamiya Ball Diff Grease. Rebuilding my TA03 diff and discovered I don't have any. I've got some "Associated Diff Lube" on hand, as well as boatloads of Tamiya Ceramic Grease. Any thoughts?

I'm building this for an M04, so it's got to stay smooth and loose, (insert "your mom" joke here) No Anti-Wear allowed!

Granpa

The standard for the longest time was the Suzuki Swift body cause it was so neutral with no nasty habits. It's still the most popular at the Tamiya USA track. The old Rover Mini body was for a short wheelbase car. Also the JCW Coupe is for a LWB car and that front air dam if it gets tweaked can cause problems.

Nothing wrong with a little body roll. This ain't F1. Look at the full sized touring cars.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Built diff with Associated Diff Lube. It was a little sticky, but a few minutes rigged into my drill press got it smoothed right out. Used the Associated Black Grease on the thrust bearing.

Time to bitch. Just about to start putting together the bits for my M05 sway bar. Looking at the instructions, it shows 4mm must be hacked off each of the ball cups. Just wondering why, since Tamiya actually makes ball cups in the shorter length.

OSherman

iTrader: (3)

i chose the CRX because i used to own one back in the day, true story... thats pretty much the only reason..

truth be told, i initially built my M05 beacuase i had this cool CRX body laying around.. another true story

Tamiya can thank the CRX for getting all my mini money..

Granpa

Question for you O man, are you using the option shock towers front and rear??? My05 is ridiculously easy to drive, but I need to pick up the pace a little.