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Old 09-03-2014, 01:57 PM   #21976
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
Orlando, I'm howling in protest. When have I ever been less than open with you. I've even had you drive my car to see if you liked it. The problem here was that we were driving different models of the M chassis.

You're right about the diff tho. You do have to adjust the set up to the diff. The problem here is that no 2 diffs seem to come out the same even if identical in construction. You build it to a certain "feel" and hope like hell it works.
Thanks for letting me drive your car Granpa
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Old 09-03-2014, 02:03 PM   #21977
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Yes you did Orlando. Thanks for the oil weight tip.

Danny R
You are very welcome.

If you ever buy an FF-sedan car try the same tip.

It's been proven to be successful.
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:44 PM   #21978
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Haven't posted here in awhile. Glad to see the V2 has done well with most!

This past weekend i finally had the chance to race my M05V1. I usually am really consistant with the 03. I figured i would try out the 05. The cars i was up against: Atomic 4wd, genetics, Top 4wd's, all 21.5 or 27t.

I was equipped with a spec silvercan, some suspension bits and tamiya alloy steering.

The straightaway was a joke, getting passed like i was standing still. BUT- my car handled like it was on rails. Qualified 3rd in the Main, but placed 1st overall. Run a consistent line, and you'll do well!

Anyone ever bevel their tranny gears? I do it to all my minis..

I saw the 05V2 chassis parts, but when are they available? I wanna run square packs already!!!
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:07 PM   #21979
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My diff setups will not work for you guys racing in TCS events, as I use the TOP Sabre FWD car oil gear diff, built per instructions with Team Powers 400 000 weight gear oil. Filled to just above the diff cross joint. To use this diff you need to add the two red shims, (come with the diff), either side and then add some 0.3m and 0.2mm shims. Make sure you still have a little side to side movement within the car. I also spray Nulon silicone grease onto all of my gears, which makes the drive train very free. Good thing is it does not fling off.
Other thing to remember on the new MO5 V2 is to place some tape over the gap in the top of the chassis and battery compartment, otherwise, if you do not place the tamiya anti-wear grease as directed in the instructions, your gearbox will fill dirt and cause issues.
I agree with Granpa and Orlando, that just putting someones elses setup on your car will not make it handle the same. We all drive differently and have our transmitters setup different. Getting your radio setup correctly is just as important as having a gun setup.
Just my two cents worth.

Calvin.
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:32 PM   #21980
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Again sorry I only wanted to know a good esc/ motor. Thanks
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Old 09-03-2014, 07:38 PM   #21981
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November release for the following:

54605 OP.1605 M-05 V2 A Parts, chassis
54606 Op.1606 M-05 V2 Lower arm sus parts
54609 OP. 1609 M-05 V2 Aluminium Motor mount.
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Old 09-03-2014, 08:05 PM   #21982
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Again sorry I only wanted to know a good esc/ motor. Thanks
Actually, you really did not start the discussion. My commenting on how difficult it is to post a set up did. I'm finding as I learn more about set ups, the more difficult it is to give simple short and direct answers. Too many variables and sometimes little adjustments make a huge difference. And as Orlando and Calvin have posted, a lot depends on the diff. With the diffs we run in TCS, it's a feel thing that can't be posted.

Returning to your original query, before we all got side tracked, there are some esc and motors that are very popular here. At the present time, I'm using a KO 350BLZ which are no longer available. There a a lot of the Justock Hobbywings around. Primarily cause they are pretty cheap and are easily programmed with the programming card. Just make sure you can program them easily.

For motors, and this is just my opinion and not a statement of fact, the R1 Wurks is the best all around motor you can find. The Trinity hi rpm Killshot and the Thunder Power are also very good. the Speed Passion was fast, but we blew up both of mine. The Novak and the Reedy were too slow unless you advanced the timing past the "marks" and bumped it past the detents. These are the only motors I've personally tested and these are my findings. The testing was done in a car and the data was the lap times.

Hope this helps.
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Old 09-03-2014, 10:18 PM   #21983
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You are very welcome.

If you ever buy an FF-sedan car try the same tip.

It's been proven to be successful.
an ff is my next purchase actually. I love that Golf body
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Old 09-03-2014, 10:29 PM   #21984
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But are you supergluing the hinge pins yet?
Hmmm.. Sounds like cornerspeed. I will have to give it a try.
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Old 09-04-2014, 01:27 AM   #21985
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Default Carpet setup for M05

Hi.

Looking for baseline carpet setup for M05 under TAC rules.

Thanks.
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Old 09-04-2014, 11:02 AM   #21986
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Hi.

Looking for baseline carpet setup for M05 under TAC rules.

Thanks.
I rest my case
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Old 09-04-2014, 12:48 PM   #21987
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Originally Posted by bosschick View Post
Hi.

Looking for baseline carpet setup for M05 under TAC rules.

Thanks.
Go to my blog and find the post about carpet techniques. It was written by Mark Brown many moons ago, but should give you a starting point.

I should warn you that the setup was not built around our current TCS spec tires, and you will have to do some testing of your own to find out what works and what doesn't. Like Orlando and the rest have said, it's a feel thing that is different for every driver. I've yet to master mini's on carpet, but the setup guide should give you a bit to work with.

(Link to my blog is in my signature, just copy and paste....)
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Old 09-05-2014, 12:20 AM   #21988
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Just got the 21.5 Turnigy Trackstar in. Its my first 21.5 motor. Didnt wanna she'll out $130 for the R1wurks... I'll keep you boys (and girls) updated.
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Old 09-05-2014, 07:41 AM   #21989
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Am I reading correctly, 400,000 wt oil.

I have a 3racing geared diff fitted. After a few months of running it loosened up to the point I thought I was losing pace. I replaced it with 100,000 wt oil and the car became undriveable for me. Coming out of corners on good grip tarmac it would dive off to the side without any warning. It was really really thick stuff. Cant imagine 400,000wt is anything other than locked.

Have 30,000wt in now and 40,000wt if that loosens up too much.
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Old 09-05-2014, 08:17 AM   #21990
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ive never used oil in a gear diff so a mini.. but in sedan i've gone to 200,000.. its not very 'thick' for slowing a diff down.. i think you can go to 800,000 before it starts turning into a spool..
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