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Old 08-08-2014, 03:45 PM   #21841
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Attention everyone.

If you are going to race the TCS Finals make sure to sign up ASAP. If you want your name printed on the "special" 20th anniversary pit pass badge we need to have all your names by August 12 before 9:00 am. Failure to do so will result in a badge without your name.

Cheers.
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Old 08-08-2014, 04:16 PM   #21842
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Sorry, didn't know that it wasn't legal. Been doing that for a few years and it always went thru Tech. Sorry to let the cat out of the bag.

My apologies to the TCS racers who may have done this on my advice.
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Old 08-08-2014, 07:23 PM   #21843
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Oops
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Old 08-08-2014, 07:27 PM   #21844
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I thought this was an 'intermediate class'? No modification or trickery needed. Ha!

This is the most intense class I've EVER participated in just learning what I have recently after a hiatus. I vaguely remember the day of "just throw it together and drive it".

And all the option doo-dad's available for them, options that make a measurable difference...Get serious and collect all the options, but it's not a serious class.

Intense! I like it.
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Old 08-08-2014, 08:28 PM   #21845
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Oops
Yeah, I know. Even David Jun let it go thru tech. Really did think it was okay. Looks like I'll have to order some parts trees.
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Old 08-09-2014, 08:24 AM   #21846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OSherman View Post
I thought this was an 'intermediate class'? No modification or trickery needed. Ha!

This is the most intense class I've EVER participated in just learning what I have recently after a hiatus. I vaguely remember the day of "just throw it together and drive it".

And all the option doo-dad's available for them, options that make a measurable difference...Get serious and collect all the options, but it's not a serious class.

Intense! I like it.
+1
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Old 08-10-2014, 04:41 AM   #21847
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Hi all,

I raced my m05 today with very limited success. It was extremely unstable and would roll, flip and tumble really easy. I'm after some tips.

This is my current setup for asphalt racing:
Tamiya m05
Hobbywing 13t combo
TRF shocks
Tamiya aluminium steering linkage.
Yeah racing gear diff

Front:
Tyres: Ride mc38 wheels and tires (club tyres)
Camber: stock
toe out: 2degrees
Shock oil: 45w
Spring: red

Rear:
Front:
Tyres: Ride mc32 wheels and tires (club tyres)
Camber: 2 degrees
toe in: 2 degrees
Shock oil: 45w
Spring: blue

Any advice?
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Old 08-10-2014, 05:24 PM   #21848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by filippimini View Post
Hi all,

I raced my m05 today with very limited success. It was extremely unstable and would roll, flip and tumble really easy. I'm after some tips.

This is my current setup for asphalt racing:
Tamiya m05
Hobbywing 13t combo
TRF shocks
Tamiya aluminium steering linkage.
Yeah racing gear diff

Front:
Tyres: Ride mc38 wheels and tires (club tyres)
Camber: stock
toe out: 2degrees
Shock oil: 45w
Spring: red

Rear:
Front:
Tyres: Ride mc32 wheels and tires (club tyres)
Camber: 2 degrees
toe in: 2 degrees
Shock oil: 45w
Spring: blue

Any advice?
It sounds like the front end is setting too quickly, then grabbing and turning you over. If this is what's happening these are some of the things you can do. If not, this may not help.

A lot of this may sound a little backwards to you, but Minis are that way. Let's start with the front. I'm assuming when you say a red spring you mean the Tamiya Mini red. I have to assume that cause there is the black red, the neon red, the white red and the regular Mini red which is what most people use. Also when you say 45 wt oil, the thickness of the oil varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. Keeping in mind, when I refer to red, it's the neon red spring from the #53333 spring set. Try the red or yellow spring in front and bump up your oil to 50 to 70 wt. I use Losi oil so don't know what you'd use with your oil. Also try loosening your diff a bit. Sometimes raising the ride height will help.

Rear. By all means fit a rear roll bar. Use 30 to 40 wt oil in the shocks and use the blue spring from the #53333 spring set. Sometimes lowing the rear ride height helps.

Using cyano on the side walls is definitely a help. Carry it to where the tread starts or to the corner.

There are a couple of things you can do with the TX adjustments. You could cut down on the travel, use some expo, or slow the servo speed down. If you can dial out some drag brake in your esc.

These are some of the basic adjustments you can do. There are many others, but adjusting those should give you a drivable car.
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Old 08-10-2014, 08:01 PM   #21849
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Hello Ryan,
Where did you race yesterday?

I ran at Whalan yesterday with a swb MO5 V1with a colt Swift body whell. I used the same tyres as you had fitted front and rear, however I run my car softer all round. I also have my dual rate back at 90%, and steering epa at -30 , by memory.
My setup.
Front,
Front shocks in standard position
Fluro red springs
350 weight oil
3 hole piston
Zero rebound
TOP racing oil gear diff with 300 000 weight oil
New short plastic tamiya top link, in top hole on chassis
6 mm wheel hex
Steering in outer hole on Tamiya alloy knuckle, with standard brass part
Steering linkage adjusted and has a 1 mm gap, so toe out on the front.
Ride height approx 4 mm or perhaps 5mm
Lead in front bumper and on top of bumper approx 40 grams.

Rear
1.5 degree rear hubs
4mm rear hex
350 weight oil
3 hole pistons
Fluro red rear spring
Rear swaybar with thinner swaybar fitted
Rear top link 1mm space from chasis to hub
Ride height 5 to 6 mm

I use a LRP 4600 Stick pack Lipo
I have the standard MO3 external heatsink fitted with 15 grrams added to it.
I also have 15 grams of lead added on the top of the car in the dead area above the battery.
I do not use the plastic battery retaining stuff, but use the Tamiya alloy hopup parts.

I also hqve my esc on the rear opposite side to motor, receiver on motor side.

I will try to post photos after. However the biggest challenge in mini is driving smooth, is not yanking on the wheel or sticks. If you miss the apex, a mini is not forgiving if you change direction suddenly.

We all drive differently and need the car setup to our preferences. My setup may not suit some, but works for me.

On another note, got some good laps in with the MO5 V2 yesterdy and it is way more forgiving than the old MO5. I used a shortie pack with a different setup to the above. I am looking forward to more practice with this car.

Later,
Calvin.

Last edited by caltek1; 08-10-2014 at 11:16 PM.
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Old 08-10-2014, 08:01 PM   #21850
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Old 08-11-2014, 01:22 AM   #21851
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
It sounds like the front end is setting too quickly, then grabbing and turning you over. If this is what's happening these are some of the things you can do. If not, this may not help.

A lot of this may sound a little backwards to you, but Minis are that way. Let's start with the front. I'm assuming when you say a red spring you mean the Tamiya Mini red. I have to assume that cause there is the black red, the neon red, the white red and the regular Mini red which is what most people use. Also when you say 45 wt oil, the thickness of the oil varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. Keeping in mind, when I refer to red, it's the neon red spring from the #53333 spring set. Try the red or yellow spring in front and bump up your oil to 50 to 70 wt. I use Losi oil so don't know what you'd use with your oil. Also try loosening your diff a bit. Sometimes raising the ride height will help.

Rear. By all means fit a rear roll bar. Use 30 to 40 wt oil in the shocks and use the blue spring from the #53333 spring set. Sometimes lowing the rear ride height helps.

Using cyano on the side walls is definitely a help. Carry it to where the tread starts or to the corner.

There are a couple of things you can do with the TX adjustments. You could cut down on the travel, use some expo, or slow the servo speed down. If you can dial out some drag brake in your esc.

These are some of the basic adjustments you can do. There are many others, but adjusting those should give you a drivable car.
Thanks for taking the time to respond.
The springs I am using are tamiya springs, they are white and the colour is indicated by a little dot on them. The shock oil is team associated 45w.

How do you lower the ride height? Is it just by adding weight?
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Old 08-11-2014, 01:24 AM   #21852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caltek1 View Post
Hello Ryan,
Where did you race yesterday?

I ran at Whalan yesterday with a swb MO5 V1with a colt Swift body whell. I used the same tyres as you had fitted front and rear, however I run my car softer all round. I also have my dual rate back at 90%, and steering epa at -30 , by memory.
My setup.
Front,
Front shocks in standard position
Fluro red springs
350 weight oil
3 hole piston
Zero rebound
TOP racing oil gear diff with 300 000 weight oil
New short plastic tamiya top link, in top hole on chassis
6 mm wheel hex
Steering in outer hole on Tamiya alloy knuckle, with standard brass part
Steering linkage adjusted and has a 1 mm gap, so toe out on the front.
Ride height approx 4 mm or perhaps 5mm
Lead in front bumper and on top of bumper approx 40 grams.

Rear
1.5 degree rear hubs
4mm rear hex
350 weight oil
3 hole pistons
Fluro red rear spring
Rear swaybar with thinner swaybar fitted
Rear top link 1mm space from chasis to hub
Ride height 5 to 6 mm

I use a LRP 4600 Stick pack Lipo
I have the standard MO3 external heatsink fitted with 15 grrams added to it.
I also have 15 grams of lead added on the top of the car in the dead area above the battery.
I do not use the plastic battery retaining stuff, but use the Tamiya alloy hopup parts.

I also hqve my esc on the rear opposite side to motor, receiver on motor side.

I will try to post photos after. However the biggest challenge in mini is driving smooth, is not yanking on the wheel or sticks. If you miss the apex, a mini is not forgiving if you change direction suddenly.

We all drive differently and need the car setup to our preferences. My setup may not suit some, but works for me.

On another note, got some good laps in with the MO5 V2 yesterdy and it is way more forgiving than the old MO5. I used a shortie pack with a different setup to the above. I am looking forward to more practice with this car.

Later,
Calvin.
I raced in Wollongong.

I will try changing the End point as this is something I haven't done yet. I'll also have a play with springs and see how I go.
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Old 08-11-2014, 02:51 AM   #21853
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Ryan, ask Chris or Ian to check your mini for you.

To adjust ride height , you use the collars on the shocks. Wind up to lower ride height and down to increase ride height. Normal mini length is between 56 to 58mm total length. Most mini shocks have a spacer or o ring under the piston for shortening the shock which also adjusts the droop. A longer shock will have more droop and a shorter shock less droop. You can check this by lifting the front or rear of the car and seeing how much the chassis raises before the wheels leave the ground.
Another thing is not to have the body mounted high on the chassis, it needs to be slammed. If you are using the swb mini shell, then the tyres will scrub on the body shell. The rides have a 2mm offset rim.

Hope that helps

Calvin
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya mini cooper-screenshot_2014-08-11-16-34-02.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-screenshot_2014-08-11-16-32-21.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-screenshot_2014-08-11-16-31-47.jpg  

Last edited by caltek1; 08-11-2014 at 03:41 AM.
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Old 08-11-2014, 04:01 AM   #21854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by filippimini View Post
Thanks for taking the time to respond.
The springs I am using are tamiya springs, they are white and the colour is indicated by a little dot on them. The shock oil is team associated 45w.

How do you lower the ride height? Is it just by adding weight?
Are they mini or touring car springs? Mini springs are about 21mm long, Touring car about 25mm.

If you are running touring springs (I have a hunch that you are) then the car will have a very high ride height and probably no droop at all, both of which will contribute to the rolling.

The ride height will be adjusted with the collar on the shock.
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Old 08-11-2014, 04:24 AM   #21855
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caltek1 View Post
Ryan, ask Chris or Ian to check your mini for you.

To adjust ride height , you use the collars on the shocks. Wind up to lower ride height and down to increase ride height. Normal mini length is between 56 to 58mm total length. Most mini shocks have a spacer or o ring under the piston for shortening the shock which also adjusts the droop. A longer shock will have more droop and a shorter shock less droop. You can check this by lifting the front or rear of the car and seeing how much the chassis raises before the wheels leave the ground.
Another thing is not to have the body mounted high on the chassis, it needs to be slammed. If you are using the swb mini shell, then the tyres will scrub on the body shell. The rides have a 2mm offset rim.

Hope that helps

Calvin
Thanks heaps.
Ian has had a look and given me a few things to try especially with the springs. The body is the swb mini shell so this could be my problem. I had to lift the shell to use the rides without scrubbing.

Sosidge thanks for the tip, the springs are the ones that came in this kit http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-84318-w...s-p-36034.html
They measure 21mm.

I will try adding some more droop by winding back the collars and I'm also going to try usingt he yellow springs on the rear.

Ryan
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