288LikesTamiya mini cooper
08-04-2014, 07:52 PM
Interesting stuff on "pitting" the comm. I've been very lucky to have never seen it. This is on a "stock" Silvercan. It could happen if the motor was abused for long periods of time. The drive frequency is moot from a practical standpoint as related to motor wear. Besides, buying a $160 KO, with a card and plugging it into your computer to adjust it ------?????? With that being said, that's what's in my cars, but for being able to adjust the drivability rather than anything else. The LRP Q3 is a good esc, but the Tekin is as good. The main problem with the LRP is that it's no longer available and can't be serviced. Also the cases had a tendency to come apart.
For comparison testing, using old motors complicates things quite a bit. There are different production "runs" of these motors and they vary. Some had hard brushes and others had a much softer brush. The current ones have a CS initialed on the brushes. These seem to be the most consistent and IMO the quickest in stock form. Also, the amount of brush wear can give you misleading info. Another factor is whether the motor was overheated or abused in any way.
You'll hear of many "old school" tricks to make these motors go faster, but most don't amount to much. Some even lead to more problems. Among these are breaking in the bushings, centering the comm to the magnets, etc. Fun to "play" with tho.
For comparison testing, using old motors complicates things quite a bit. There are different production "runs" of these motors and they vary. Some had hard brushes and others had a much softer brush. The current ones have a CS initialed on the brushes. These seem to be the most consistent and IMO the quickest in stock form. Also, the amount of brush wear can give you misleading info. Another factor is whether the motor was overheated or abused in any way.
You'll hear of many "old school" tricks to make these motors go faster, but most don't amount to much. Some even lead to more problems. Among these are breaking in the bushings, centering the comm to the magnets, etc. Fun to "play" with tho.
If looking for a great TCS motor, call Doc from Red Dot motors. He sells a TCS spec motor already broken in. It was worth ever penny. Saved me from having to tinker with the damm things. Although as you mentioned that is he fun part.
08-04-2014, 09:09 PM
hey whats up Carll this is Carl Edwards I have a question for you what are you running in your mo5 v2 gear diff i just got one today and I was curious as to what you guys are running inside of them
08-04-2014, 09:21 PM
Okay, this is a case of me being a dumb @@$.
I tried 3 silvercans in my car this evening, all seemed about the same. Granted they are all used, and from different years, etc. But just trying to see if I could find anything.
I decided to check everything from the controller to the ESC. Um, embarrassed but found that my throttle forward end point was set to 60%. I cranked it up to 120% and the power came back, -amazing, much faster and where I expect performance to be. I have been racing with this setting for the entire season!!!! All my other car profiles are correct, somehow this one profile got messed up. The only upside was that I've been able to focus on my line and every other aspect of tuning my car.
Can't believe I did this! But problem seems to be solved, I should now be able to compete at the next race!
I tried 3 silvercans in my car this evening, all seemed about the same. Granted they are all used, and from different years, etc. But just trying to see if I could find anything.
I decided to check everything from the controller to the ESC. Um, embarrassed but found that my throttle forward end point was set to 60%. I cranked it up to 120% and the power came back, -amazing, much faster and where I expect performance to be. I have been racing with this setting for the entire season!!!! All my other car profiles are correct, somehow this one profile got messed up. The only upside was that I've been able to focus on my line and every other aspect of tuning my car.
Can't believe I did this! But problem seems to be solved, I should now be able to compete at the next race!
08-05-2014, 01:47 AM
I decided to check everything from the controller to the ESC. Um, embarrassed but found that my throttle forward end point was set to 60%. I cranked it up to 120% and the power came back, -amazing, much faster and where I expect performance to be. I have been racing with this setting for the entire season!!!!
It's not just you. I reminded you to check the calibration because I've done exactly the same thing.
08-05-2014, 02:07 AM
Although I am unfamiliar with the KO, I suspect it might vary the frequency throughout the throttle range, so in your case the frequency gets greater as the throttle setting increases. This would be a nice feature to create a response curve which can be hard to duplicate in any other way.
No. As long as the frequency is high enough to smooth the current from the PWM, then the commutator will be fine. A sufficiently high fixed frequency will not pit the comm any more than a sufficiently high but variable frequency.
08-05-2014, 05:17 AM
Hey Carl, too bad you guys had I leave. I have two diffs built for the m05v2, the gear diff is always built with three shims and packed with diff putty. Although as someone mentioned I may try adding a few more shims and my ball diff is built with diff balls an extra 1mm shim under the diff springtime over tighten the diff and I use Losi brown diff grease. I will try using a Tamiya slipper peg in the diff as I know Jamie uses the Pags but this almost creates a spool like diff so I will need to experiment. For the main I ran my M03 with a gear diff as I broke my m05v2 when I had te wrong model setting in the radio.
08-05-2014, 09:28 AM
It's not just you. I reminded you to check the calibration because I've done exactly the same thing.
Seriously, I was so focussed on the ESC and Motor that I completely passed over the controller settings. I have it set at 120%, -is that like "11"?
08-05-2014, 10:59 AM
Actually no. If the max point on the throttle is 100 for your Tx and Esc, dialing it to 120 won't make it go any faster. If you don't have the instructions, it's usually best to set the throttle at the max setting on the Tx, then set up the esc to the Tx.
08-05-2014, 11:09 AM
Actually no. If the max point on the throttle is 100 for your Tx and Esc, dialing it to 120 won't make it go any faster. If you don't have the instructions, it's usually best to set the throttle at the max setting on the Tx, then set up the esc to the Tx.
I will go through and dial it in this evening (now that i've identified the issue) --actually, I believe Carl mentioned it (thanks)
I was looking at my lap times from this past weekend and comparing to the lead guys. I am consistently 2 seconds behind the 1st position. My laps were very consistent, between 12.2 - 12.9. The 1st spot was running in the 10's. So I think getting my throttle adjustment correct should add that 2sec's I need to get me in the top spots.
08-05-2014, 11:46 AM
by the way, this was my first race w/ a pro/sponsored driver.
(he raced in an on-road class w/ me, -not Mini)
was amazing to watch how a pro does it.
(he raced in an on-road class w/ me, -not Mini)
was amazing to watch how a pro does it.
08-05-2014, 12:03 PM
08-05-2014, 12:05 PM
08-05-2014, 02:09 PM
Ha, spinal tap is what I was thinking of when I said 11 !
$5,000 -that would be the worlds most expensive tamiya m05!
(I'll pass)
$5,000 -that would be the worlds most expensive tamiya m05!
(I'll pass)
08-06-2014, 05:22 AM
08-06-2014, 08:55 AM
hi Carl this may be a dumb question but are you using the Mo5 Ball differential or the Tao3 bill differential with the tao5 outdrives