tony gray

iTrader: (7)

OK, well it's not uncommon at all for this to happen. The problem can indeed be partially attributed to not having the o rings in as this is often the cause.

But, a large part of the reason is that the metal used on the diff halves is a really cheap 'pot metal' and it is simply not very strong. And the Manta Ray ones are worse than the TA03 ones for some reason. Since switching to TA03 items I've never stripped one. But back previously, we used to glue the outdrives in to stop this happening.

Tony

waltuo

iTrader: (2)

Well, thanks for the responses. No, the diff wasn't too tight, it had great diff action ... right up to the wall. 8) And yes, I did have the o-ring in. I'll try the TA03 parts next time.

JamesArluck

iTrader: (52)

Sorry if this has been covered already in this thread, but what are you guys using to glue your foam insert strips together? I've tried everything (CA, 3M#77, shoe goo, kinwald bomb insert glue, etc.) and it either ends up making a hard spot in the tire or it soaks into the foam so it doesn't rebound when you compress it.

-James

bizkit1

iTrader: (27)

Usually I use rubber cement, just a dab in the center on each side. Lately I'm just using 26mm HPI inserts cut to fit. Good luck.

George

Sydewynder

I use rubber cement (Elmers). Brush a thin coat on both edges and let them dry apart for at least 10 minutes (dry to the touch). Push the 2 edges together and put a piece of tape to hold and let sit over night to cure.
The reason I dont push the edges together when the glue is wet is because it soaks into the foam too much and does exactly what you said about the foam compressing and not rebounding.
Don't use CA. It gives you a hard spot.

MrBlack

I use insert strips my technique is to use tiny 2 or 3 dots of CA on the bottom edge ( edge near the rim) then i use Blenderm ( tape used for RC airplane flaps) tape around the whole insert this tape is sticky yet super flexible and allows the insert to work the tiny dot (I use a thin toothpick to apply it) keeps it from wanting to seperate.

minidriver

iTrader: (2)

DAP Contact cement works very well - no hard spot. You can get small bottles just like rubber cement, but it holds much better than rubber cement. Apply to both ends to be joined, let it sit 10 minutes, then push the ends together. If you don't want the insert to expand or perhaps come apart, then take and wrap around the outside of the newly constructed insert with one round of black electrical tape. I do that to all my inserts now for mini with great results.

As my favorite Tamiya mini insert is no longer made (black hard shaped insert), I now make my own by purchasing the Tamiya black shaped insert for sedans, cut it and remove about about 1.25", contact cement and electrical tape it back together, and you have the same now discontinued mini shaped insert. The insert material of the black sedan insert seems to be the same consistency as the black mini insert. You do not have to remove anything from the width of the insert, they match up perfectly going from the 24mm sedan to the 60D series mini tires widths.

Wouter.Z

Guys i got a question.

In holland there is a new tamiya swift winter series and we mostly drive on carpet. We are only allowed to drive tamiya 60D (stock) 60D M grip and 60D Reinforced Type A tires. My question is what tire works best on carpet?

thanks,

wouter

waltuo

iTrader: (2)

Silly question: Why glue the foam together? It's not like the motor generates enough force to counteract the effects of the tire holding the foam together to pull it apart by centrifugal force. If the motor could generate that much force, then the foam would bunch up to account for the lack of space inside the tire and the gap between the foam ends. However, the centrifugal force would spread that "bunch" out evenly since it's contained within the tire. Thus the foam would always be evenly distributed within the tire.

At least, that's my two pennies.

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

New update on rc-mini.net up now.

First photos of a completed Tech Racing 4WD Mini. And yes, it's every bit as good as you might have hoped, maybe even better.

Check it out and then check your bank balance

http://www.rc-mini.net

minimanintaiwan

Anyone know about a tamiya m-chassis shaped insert #53223.? They're discontinued but was wondering how they performed and why they stopped making them. I'm cutting down touring car inserts and using pit shimizu tires with ABC hobby rims. Performs really well and lasts quite a while. No significant grooving along the one side of tire. Rims don't have a single crack or bend after countless crashes

Customworksking

iTrader: (74)

i use sedan inserts cut to fit

minidriver

iTrader: (2)

If you don't glue the ends together (or you don't glue them well and they come apart) you wind up with a flat spot in the tire that you can definitely feel while driving - like an out of balance wheel, only worse. The shaped insert leaves a bit of an air gap between insert and tire, so the expansion you mention doesn't work.

Turbonium

iTrader: (27)

hey Dave.... any ideas on the liners for the front tires? i have tried Ms locally, with molded liners, but all i get is rollin'... currently on kits/S's, not bad, but a little pushy.

i know for the A's i run on asphalt, i stuffed a full uncut TO Medium insert in there, but with the treaded tires, it still acts like it needs more!


and on a side note for you WI guys... has there been mention if the Swift body will be OK for the Novak race, or are we gonna stick with Coopers?

Wes

Bikerbob

iTrader: (11)

Anyone still running a std wheelbase MO3?

If you are successful with it could you share the setup with me.. PM if you want.

I run indoors on Ozlite carpet.. I have not bothered to install the ball diff yet. ( I have one) and the hollow shafts. I am more worried about driving setup.

Thanks

James