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Old 07-21-2014, 11:58 AM   #21661
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For a wheel to be loose on the axle as described can only happen if the drive pin is missing in the hex or the wheel is damaged as you say and the wheel nut is loose.

Damn its always that pesky loose nut behind the wheel

Can anyone tell me the part number for the Slick tires not the 60d Radials?

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Old 07-21-2014, 12:17 PM   #21662
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Super Slick 55d 53222
Reinforced Slick 60d 53340
Type B Slick 60d 54216
Type A Slick 60d 53293

I think that's all of them.
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Old 07-21-2014, 02:33 PM   #21663
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I'm going to assume that the steering buckle is the rod going from the servo arm to the steering linkage and is on a M05. If it isn't just ignore the following.

A common mistake is that some don't realize is that the angle between the rod and the servo arm should be 90 degrees. Too often people think the center point is when the servo arm is at 90 degrees to the servo case. You need to remove and replace the servo arm or servo saver so that it is 90 degrees to the rod and not to the servo case. This means that the servo arm/servo saver will be forward of the center line of the servo case. If the servo arm/servo saver is properly positioned on the servo, the rod will need to be as much as 10mm or more shorter. This is something I see often and is not just an error a newbie makes. I've seen this on cars of experienced Mini racers.

Set ups change from track to track and surface to surface. That's why you should develop a base set up that you can work from and adjust. I do next to no carpet racing, but have a solid base setting for carpet. Tweaking that gets me to competitive times in short order in spite of my relative inexperience on carpet. I like running on carpet, but absolutely hate the "fuzz".
Wow!!!! If that is the case, and it makes sense then 99% of the cars at the track are set up incorrectly. I say 99% as I probably haven't seen the other 1%. Makes sense
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Old 07-21-2014, 03:14 PM   #21664
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After reading Grandpas post about the steering rod/servo-horn angular-positioning i tried applying his advice. Oh what a difference it makes. Prior to I had to set more radio EPA on one side just to get equal turning radius at full lock. It's the small things that count and make our lives a lil easier. Thanks for the tip.

And yes, I see a LOT of minis setup how mine WAS. Ha
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Old 07-21-2014, 05:50 PM   #21665
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Super Slick 55d 53222
Reinforced Slick 60d 53340
Type B Slick 60d 54216
Type A Slick 60d 53293

I think that's all of them.
Thanks Jim
Now back to tighening up them nuts
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Old 07-21-2014, 07:05 PM   #21666
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Super slicks and reinforced are pretty much shelf queen tires, btw. Type A and B work well.
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Old 07-21-2014, 07:44 PM   #21667
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Thanks Jim
Now back to tighening up them nuts
Yeah, Mike, I'll admit to being a little on the compulsive side. However, the better the driver, the more anal he is about how his car is put together. Better tighten those nuts cause we can't have your nuts falling off and bouncing down the track after you.

There aren't too many conditions where the Tamiya Type A or B slicks would be the best tire to use. Lots of better choices, unless the club rules force you into those tires.
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Old 07-21-2014, 11:33 PM   #21668
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After reading Grandpas post about the steering rod/servo-horn angular-positioning i tried applying his advice. Oh what a difference it makes. Prior to I had to set more radio EPA on one side just to get equal turning radius at full lock. It's the small things that count and make our lives a lil easier. Thanks for the tip.

And yes, I see a LOT of minis setup how mine WAS. Ha
Reading the manual just don't cut it, does it?
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Old 07-22-2014, 03:24 AM   #21669
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Well, I guess even Tamiya doesn't know how the servo saver should be angled. Kit boxes and web pics show the off centre angle, M05 and M05v2 manuals show the 90 degree angle...

I'll be trying the off centre angle, also got sick of the EPA settings. Never to old to learn...
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Old 07-22-2014, 08:26 AM   #21670
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Reading the manual just don't cut it, does it?
Manual?.... I use CliffNotes.
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Old 07-22-2014, 09:13 AM   #21671
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Manual?.... I use CliffNotes.
There's your mistake.
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Old 07-22-2014, 09:19 AM   #21672
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Can anyone comment if the M05 Ver.II handles that much better on the track than the Ver.I? What are your differences in lap times? Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-22-2014, 10:20 AM   #21673
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Hey folks!

So I read around the last 10 or so pages of this thread. Some great info. I'm sure there's more if I dug a little deeper.

I was wondering if I could get some quick opinions. I am building a new M05V2 kit on RCSoup.com (it's not up yet). This class is new to me, and nobody around here runs them (except R/C Kinetics in Troy, NY and their program is relatively new). So my sources for mini experts locally are limited, although I've had great input from a couple folks.

Anyways.. a small group of us are "buying in" to this class of racing as a potential new class to renew the fun factor of racing. Last carpet season was brutal on the wallet with everyone chasing the best chassis, motor, etc for oval racing.

While road racing isn't necessarily huge in our area, we do have CRC (I'm in upstate NY btw). Others are oval only, but I'm curious if they would be willing to throw down some quick barriers on oval day and let us play (Walts and Buddyboys already do this for Short Course on the same track, ours just wouldn't need jumps).. The tracks aren't huge, but neither are the cars.. So, it may be a simple track?

Either way.. there are 3-4 carpet tracks within 1.5 hours from me. None of them currently run Minis, or anything close for the most part. I don't like being the guy that's always starting a new class, but other than Legends, there is no entry level/intermediate, fun, competitive, cheap class.. but with nationally recognized TCS rules, and tracks like Kinetics, Madness, Brownies, and others within 6 hours.. it makes sense to stick close to those rules for traveling purposes.

Does anyone have any recommendations for gaining interest in a new class, in a relatively untapped market? We have a few folks open to the idea, but have not began to advertise our interest yet. We want to see how many racers are interested before asking any tracks to offer such a class.

Opinions? Also, with the V2 out, should we stick to the 50c lipo precedent that Brownies seems to be imposing on racers? I'm ok with it, CRC is my source for lipos and they offer a couple cost effective options, including a shorty (if those are legal?) and VTA pack.

I'm assuming the class will be a mix of m05/m06 cars setup for either 21.5 blinky and silver can.

No clue on tires for the carpet. I'm going to try S-Grips with Soft inserts my first time out on the V2 (setup as LWB w/ JCW body- which I read is not ideal for short tracks, but it's what I have).

Thanks, and sorry for the long post.
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:46 AM   #21674
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Best advice to help it grow - keep it simple and cheap. Here's the most stripped down set of rules I can think of.

- Any Tamiya M Chassis (M01-M06)
- Cheap spec BL system or silver can
- Any mini rubber tire/hop-up/body/diff (Stock gear ratios! No cheater gears!)
- 2S hardcase batteries
- Set a minimum weight

Here's why this works.

- Allowing all chassis gives freedom of choice, but it will naturally filter itself down to one or two that work.
- Speccing the motor will prevent motor wars or motor of the month crap. Keeps it cheap.
- Opening up option for hop-ups, etc, gives choice and, in most cases, the price of entry into aftermarket hop-ups, tires and bodies is WAY cheaper than Tamiya. (Although the quality of some Tamiya stuff is superior)
- Allowing all diffs shuts up the whiners and people running stock ones will find a way to lock them up anyhow. Keep stock gear ratios, though. The available "speed gears" are garbage.
- Hardcase batteries. Safety!
- Minimum weight. Helps filter out cheaters or, as they'd describe themselves, smart, crafty, innovators or "engineers". Go for something between 1220-1300g.


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Old 07-22-2014, 12:04 PM   #21675
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Opinions?
Run it as a Breakout class. That helps the beginners from getting run over and reduces parts breakage. Also, there's no way to cheat!

When enough guys get good enough, then you can run a "real" Mini class, and nobody has to buy a new car to do so.
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