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Old 07-18-2014, 02:50 AM   #21631
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Thanks monkey, we go it all set up and working. Besides being able to use tamiya brushed and brushless, are you able to use other brand motors?

Also, when running the silver can brushed motor, does this new esc provide an advantage over the old one?

Ryan
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Old 07-18-2014, 03:15 AM   #21632
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Savox 1251 servo landed. It feels excellent quality over the plastic lump I am removing.

One thing I always seem to find is the steering buckle feels too short. To get the servo to its centre position the steering buckle always needs extended to the point the plastic caps aren't really holding on very tight. Is this normal? Nothings bent as it was like this when I had the plastic steering setup and its the same with the alloy one.

I have ordered the alloy steering buckle set and am considering looking for longer plastic pieces from another model to make it better but surely the standard should be able to fit without being 'clinging on'.

Love driving these things. As a beginner I don't think I have managed to get the setup of my car the same at 2 different race events. There is so much that changes wether its settling in of the diff, the motor performing differently, the shocks being adjusted and how the tyres are performing. Then you realise that each one of these parts effects all the other in different ways.
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:04 AM   #21633
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Hey Ryan, I have the same kit. Having a brushless esc is great as it allows upgrade options in the future, and also for being included in the kit it seems pretty decent. The orange wire is unused, just tie it off somewhere. The blue wire goes to the green motor wire and yellow to yellow.

You can use other motors, but be careful as the esc is not rated for lipo voltage (it does have low voltage cutoff though) and some people have been burning them out at my track when they try motors that draw more power. I have quite a few laps with my silvercan and no issues.

There are a decent number of setup options, but I found it a pain to program as I had a hard time telling the orange light from the red light. Mine was setup in "brushless" mode as default, so be sure to check that if it won't go. You can also adjust drag brake, lockout reverse and a couple other things, though I prefer to adjust things through my radio.
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:29 AM   #21634
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Originally Posted by Thelittlesthobo View Post
One thing I always seem to find is the steering buckle feels too short. To get the servo to its centre position the steering buckle always needs extended to the point the plastic caps aren't really holding on very tight. Is this normal? Nothings bent as it was like this when I had the plastic steering setup and its the same with the alloy one.

I have ordered the alloy steering buckle set and am considering looking for longer plastic pieces from another model to make it better but surely the standard should be able to fit without being 'clinging on'.
This trait is normal if you use the rod ends included with the kit. I highly recommend finding longer ends to allow you to set the steering rod to the proper length...
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:45 AM   #21635
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Originally Posted by sad_rocc View Post
Hey Ryan, I have the same kit. Having a brushless esc is great as it allows upgrade options in the future, and also for being included in the kit it seems pretty decent. The orange wire is unused, just tie it off somewhere. The blue wire goes to the green motor wire and yellow to yellow.

You can use other motors, but be careful as the esc is not rated for lipo voltage (it does have low voltage cutoff though) and some people have been burning them out at my track when they try motors that draw more power. I have quite a few laps with my silvercan and no issues.

There are a decent number of setup options, but I found it a pain to program as I had a hard time telling the orange light from the red light. Mine was setup in "brushless" mode as default, so be sure to check that if it won't go. You can also adjust drag brake, lockout reverse and a couple other things, though I prefer to adjust things through my radio.
Thanks for the tips.

I've been reading that the low voltage is for life batteries only and too low for lipos. Can anyone confirm this?
We will run a low voltage alarm just in case.

Ryan
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Old 07-18-2014, 11:46 AM   #21636
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Originally Posted by Thelittlesthobo View Post
Savox 1251 servo landed. It feels excellent quality over the plastic lump I am removing.

One thing I always seem to find is the steering buckle feels too short. To get the servo to its centre position the steering buckle always needs extended to the point the plastic caps aren't really holding on very tight. Is this normal? Nothings bent as it was like this when I had the plastic steering setup and its the same with the alloy one.

I have ordered the alloy steering buckle set and am considering looking for longer plastic pieces from another model to make it better but surely the standard should be able to fit without being 'clinging on'.

Love driving these things. As a beginner I don't think I have managed to get the setup of my car the same at 2 different race events. There is so much that changes wether its settling in of the diff, the motor performing differently, the shocks being adjusted and how the tyres are performing. Then you realise that each one of these parts effects all the other in different ways.
I'm going to assume that the steering buckle is the rod going from the servo arm to the steering linkage and is on a M05. If it isn't just ignore the following.

A common mistake is that some don't realize is that the angle between the rod and the servo arm should be 90 degrees. Too often people think the center point is when the servo arm is at 90 degrees to the servo case. You need to remove and replace the servo arm or servo saver so that it is 90 degrees to the rod and not to the servo case. This means that the servo arm/servo saver will be forward of the center line of the servo case. If the servo arm/servo saver is properly positioned on the servo, the rod will need to be as much as 10mm or more shorter. This is something I see often and is not just an error a newbie makes. I've seen this on cars of experienced Mini racers.

Set ups change from track to track and surface to surface. That's why you should develop a base set up that you can work from and adjust. I do next to no carpet racing, but have a solid base setting for carpet. Tweaking that gets me to competitive times in short order in spite of my relative inexperience on carpet. I like running on carpet, but absolutely hate the "fuzz".
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Old 07-19-2014, 03:40 AM   #21637
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Righto, I've got a M05 v2 pro coming. I've never raced a M05 before so does anyone have a good basic set-up for high grip carpet? Would M tyres and hard inserts be good?
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Old 07-19-2014, 09:55 AM   #21638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Qatmix View Post
Righto, I've got a M05 v2 pro coming. I've never raced a M05 before so does anyone have a good basic set-up for high grip carpet? Would M tyres and hard inserts be good?
Really depends on the rules you're playing by. What are the rules on your track?
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Old 07-19-2014, 10:17 AM   #21639
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Originally Posted by Qatmix View Post
Righto, I've got a M05 v2 pro coming. I've never raced a M05 before so does anyone have a good basic set-up for high grip carpet? Would M tyres and hard inserts be good?
Where I race, the rules are "any M chassis", "rubber tyres" and a "HPI Saturn 27t motor". I have a M05 (not M05 V2).

All I did to get the car running great was to get the Tamiya 53333 spring set (hardest on front, medium on rear) and use Pit Shimzu tyres (http://www.pit-bitz.com/index.php/pit-shimizu-m-23). The springs let you get the ride height down. For tyres, originally I ran medium tyres front, soft rear, but am now running soft both front and rear.

Hope this helps.

Tony.
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Old 07-19-2014, 11:19 AM   #21640
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Cheers for the pointers guys. There are no rules as such as it's a club night only so we just run what we want. I'm just keen to have a bit of fun with it, I will just fit some electrics from one of my spare TC's (17.5 or 21.5 brushless)

I got one cause I can use square packs and easily set droop.
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Old 07-19-2014, 11:33 AM   #21641
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I run on a medium grip carpet track and have had good grip with sweep's, 33 front & 25 rear both soft inserts, front maybe medium.
Also have a look at the ride 60D 'inch-up' tires, if you get them to work they're awesome!
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Old 07-19-2014, 04:14 PM   #21642
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Also, regarding body shells, I assume the short wheelbase mini is fine? Or maybe the mini coupe (is that medium?)
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Old 07-20-2014, 12:28 AM   #21643
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Also, regarding body shells, I assume the short wheelbase mini is fine? Or maybe the mini coupe (is that medium?)
The coupe is a long WB body. Also, it's a tricky body to get "right". Probably a body for the more experienced. New driver, LWB chassis, Coupe body is not the best combo for a tight carpet track.

The SWB may be the "best" but it's more difficult to set up and drive. I'd suggest building it as MWB for starting out and change later if you want. Set ups vary wildly from track to track so your best set up advice will come from the locals.
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Old 07-20-2014, 04:16 AM   #21644
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Hi Guys,

I was at the track today and ran into a few walls which resulted in a few issues.
The first being, I keep breaking the rims right around the hex drive. Is this common for a beginner? Today it actually cracked and before I noticed I had rounded the hex drive.

The second thing I had an issue with was the gears. It just wasn't getting power down and it felt like the gears had stripped. So tonight I pulled it apart and the gears seam fine. Is there anything else I should be looking at? How do I check the diff is working?
I've ordered the harder gears to put in while its apart. I can't find a gear oil diff anywhere, so I am going to try the ear plug method. Did someone say you could use tyre inserts as well?
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Old 07-20-2014, 05:33 AM   #21645
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Quote:
Originally Posted by filippimini View Post
Hi Guys,

I was at the track today and ran into a few walls which resulted in a few issues.
The first being, I keep breaking the rims right around the hex drive. Is this common for a beginner? Today it actually cracked and before I noticed I had rounded the hex drive.

The second thing I had an issue with was the gears. It just wasn't getting power down and it felt like the gears had stripped. So tonight I pulled it apart and the gears seam fine. Is there anything else I should be looking at? How do I check the diff is working?
I've ordered the harder gears to put in while its apart. I can't find a gear oil diff anywhere, so I am going to try the ear plug method. Did someone say you could use tyre inserts as well?
another way of tightening up the diff is with some anti-wear (silver) grease and a couple of shims..

take the diff apart and use 1 shim on the backside of both bevel (big) gears, then coat all the gears with the anti-wear grease, then put it back together...

the anti-wear grease is super thick and stick and the shims will make the gears press together tighter - all resulting in a tighter feeling diff..

on one of my diffs, I used 2 shims under each bevel gear and the grease, and might is super tight, almost like a spool

I've use the anti-wear grease and a diff tighten'er before on a TT01 diff that was used in a 24 hour endure.. the grease make 6ish hours of constant running (about 1/4 of the race) before the diff loosened up.. so this does work as an option
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