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Old 07-11-2014, 11:28 AM   #21556
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@Granpa
I did consider that factor when building the shocks. I decided not to insert the o-ring spacers and the urethane bushing inside the shocks. Thus I have longer play of the suspension shafts.

At first I installed the shorter couplers, then I realized that the clearance were too low. That's the reason why I used the longer couplers. Nevertheless, I believe that this mini still needs lots of suspension tuning and adjustments.

Gonna run it on Sunday
Yes, you need to use those long rod ends when you use the ball ended shafts. For the rear, you can use the normal length TRF dampers if you have any lying around. A cheaper alternative is to just use the standard length shock shaft/short rod end with the mini shock bodies. When you use the ball ended shaft, you do not need to put anything into the diaphragm to especially compensate for the geometry change that the fronts go through. You should also opt for a softer setup since the leverage point is further out. Just try it like that, see how you like it.
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Old 07-11-2014, 11:34 AM   #21557
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
I received a completely unexpected envelope from Stellamodels today. It contain a shim and instructions for fixing the steering lopsided-ness thing. Great service!

I haven't noticed the problem yet. Could be because I'm using the Yeah Racing linkage. Not sure.
I did too..unexpected not sure if needed?
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Old 07-11-2014, 11:47 AM   #21558
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Originally Posted by inpuressa View Post
Yes, you need to use those long rod ends when you use the ball ended shafts. For the rear, you can use the normal length TRF dampers if you have any lying around. A cheaper alternative is to just use the standard length shock shaft/short rod end with the mini shock bodies. When you use the ball ended shaft, you do not need to put anything into the diaphragm to especially compensate for the geometry change that the fronts go through.


@Inpuressa

Thanks for sharing mate

It is unfortunate that I do not have normal length TRF Dampers nor other option of standard length shock shaft / rod


Btw, you also said =

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You should also opt for a softer setup since the leverage point is further out. Just try it like that, see how you like it.

I set blue spring @Front and yellow spring @Rear at present.

This is intended for outdoor asphalt with high grip (but quite bumpy) circuit.

Would you suggest to change this setup and applies yellow spring @Front and red spring @Rear ?

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Old 07-11-2014, 11:55 AM   #21559
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@Inpuressa

Thanks for sharing mate

It is unfortunate that I do not have normal length TRF Dampers nor other option of standard length shock shaft / rod


Btw, you said =

"You should also opt for a softer setup since the leverage point is further out. Just try it like that, see how you like it."

I set blue spring @Front and yellow spring @Rear at present.

This is intended for outdoor asphalt with high grip (but quite bumpy) circuit.

Would you suggest to change this setup and applies yellow spring @Front and red spring @Rear ?

If you have another set of yellows, just use them at the front. The m05 runs well with the same spring or harder in the rear. Depending on your grip level, some even use the reds from the TC spring set, which is much harder. The fun thing about the mini is that, you can get away with some whacky looking setups
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Old 07-11-2014, 11:57 AM   #21560
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If you have another set of yellows, just use them at the front. The m05 runs well with the same spring or harder in the rear. Depending on your grip level, some even use the reds from the TC spring set, which is much harder. The fun thing about the mini is that, you can get away with some whacky looking setups

Duly noted.

I have spare of yellows to be used at front and rear.

Many thanks for your explanation
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Old 07-11-2014, 12:05 PM   #21561
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
I received a completely unexpected envelope from Stellamodels today. It contain a shim and instructions for fixing the steering lopsided-ness thing. Great service!

I haven't noticed the problem yet. Could be because I'm using the Yeah Racing linkage. Not sure.
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I did too..unexpected not sure if needed?

It's a case by case situation, where "if" the upper mount creates a bind, then put the shim under the post. MY v.2 required a shim, but the other car we built here did not. Both cars using the all aluminum Tamiya steering arms.
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Old 07-11-2014, 12:28 PM   #21562
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Duly noted.

I have spare of yellows to be used at front and rear.

Many thanks for your explanation
As a starting point, try 400 for the front and 500cst for the rear, standard 3 hole piston. But you can experiment with softer oils if your track doesn't have enough grip to roll you over.
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Old 07-12-2014, 04:10 PM   #21563
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Building an 05V2?

The transmission internals are NOT exactly the same as before.

Take note of this little spacer, it's new for the V2 and is VERY easy to miss out..
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Old 07-12-2014, 06:12 PM   #21564
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Crap. Missed that.
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Old 07-12-2014, 06:21 PM   #21565
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Appears about 90% of people did Jim, including Tim and Brad. Because you just assume everything is the same because it looks the same....
Hence the reason for the post.
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Old 07-12-2014, 06:28 PM   #21566
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My thinking was the new alloy motor plate would compensate. The boss in that side is resized. Maybe not enough.
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Old 07-13-2014, 04:59 PM   #21567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony gray View Post
Building an 05V2?

The transmission internals are NOT exactly the same as before.

Take note of this little spacer, it's new for the V2 and is VERY easy to miss out..
Thanks so such for pointing that out. I sent 2 hours shiming my mini and now just took out the shims and but in 1.6 mm washer and it like dream so smooth.
Maybe some day I will learn to read!
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Old 07-13-2014, 09:08 PM   #21568
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Found it...right after going through all my aluminum shims and spacers and packing them all away...and there it was, sitting on my workbench as if it had magically rolled aside of it's own accord. Weird. I suspect what I found is actually a shim from my Serpent S411, but it's exactly the right size, so I'm not going to look this gift horse in the mouth.

Are any of you guys on Twitter?
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Old 07-13-2014, 11:33 PM   #21569
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wow, thanks for that Tony Gray, I was wondering what that shim was for.

Maybe its just me, but not liking the metallic green tint of the m05v2

Is anyone concerned with how the droop screw holder for the rear arms can bind up the rear suspension. Try this, no shocks on the rear and pull down slightly on the rear arm. On mine the droop screw holder moves slightly and binds the suspension arm. I tried tightening the 3x15 screw and adjusted the holder so the arms is free on the 3x55 suspension shaft, but once mounted and you pull down on the arm, its binds a little. This is not a problem in the front since the droop screw holder is molded in the arm. I was thinking of glueing the droop screw holder in place. Anyone experience this? Granted the suspension spring is not as strong a my moving the holder with my fingers but one never knows?
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:14 AM   #21570
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Originally Posted by Carl Giordano View Post
Is anyone concerned with how the droop screw holder for the rear arms can bind up the rear suspension. Try this, no shocks on the rear and pull down slightly on the rear arm. On mine the droop screw holder moves slightly and binds the suspension arm. I tried tightening the 3x15 screw and adjusted the holder so the arms is free on the 3x55 suspension shaft, but once mounted and you pull down on the arm, its binds a little. This is not a problem in the front since the droop screw holder is molded in the arm. I was thinking of glueing the droop screw holder in place. Anyone experience this? Granted the suspension spring is not as strong a my moving the holder with my fingers but one never knows?
I didn't run into this problem but do know what you speak of. If the pin binds between the droop screw attachment and the arm, it shouldn't matter too much. In fact, I made mine bind there on purpose to remove some slop. The pin moves freely in the lower arm mount, which is all I am concerned about.
However, I did glue the droop screw attachment to the arm out of fear that the droop setting would change mid race if that attachment moved slightly.
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