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Old 07-08-2014, 10:24 PM   #21541
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Originally Posted by bd581 View Post
I understand your point.

However, my thought would be, if your series is ran by Tamiya, I would think it would have been in Tamiya's best interest to take the motor issue completely out of it by putting their foot down and saying, "you must run our branded ESC and brushless motor"

From the outside looking in, it seems the American series has become a motor war, not about who can setup, build and drive the best.
So long as there is no ruling on motor brands, the racing is no longer about tamiya products and will have little benifit to the brand.

Or if Tamiya is showing such little interest, forget them and just do your own thing and go back to having fun again
Like I said, things can get complicated. There was and still is a very good reason for Tamiya not following your suggestion.

The motor war is over cause it took awhile, but the cream always rises to the top. There are a few motors that are competitive and the rest do not do well in a Mini. It may have seemed like a motor war, but it was more of a search for a good motor.

What's interesting was that in the search for parity, we got the opposite, at least where I race. The "fast" guys got faster. The spread between them and the rest of the field got larger. The guys who knew set ups adapted to the higher speeds and the rest of us struggled until we got it right. It's still about driving and set up.

You mistook what I said for a lack of interest on Tamiya's part. What I meant was if a business decision came into conflict with a TCS decision, business would win out. Can't be lack of interest when you consider the many thousands of dollars that Tamiya spends to put on a basically free series for the racers.
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Old 07-09-2014, 02:43 AM   #21542
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so I got my second m05 in the mail yesterday, and I'm converting it into a rally car
This is what I got to do so
- m05ra f parts (51425)
- shocks off my tt01
- longer 5mm ball ends (57714)
- skid plate (51426)
- 60d rally block tires(51427)

The reason I went with tt-01 shocks is because they added a significant amount of ground clearance, and still allow for full compression. I'm not sure the part number on what I'm currently using, because I have no idea what shocks they actually are. I got the tt01 used, and they were already on it and worked fine. they look like cva minis with the aluminum cap from the trf shocks. from center to center, they measure 57mm.
With the shocks though, my rear ride height was a lot higher than the front, so I moved the rear uprights on the lower holes, and have the fronts on the top holes to even it out.

sorry for any blurry pictures, I can try to take better ones if anyone wants.

this is a rear view to show the difference between the two. On the right is the shock from my tt01, and the left is a cva super mini


the left side is the tt01 shock, right is cva super mini


Here's the full compression of the tt01 shock


versus the full compression of the cva super mini

Last edited by Dynikus; 07-09-2014 at 04:24 AM.
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Old 07-09-2014, 09:35 PM   #21543
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Please allow me to share my first ever M05 build ... finally











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Old 07-10-2014, 02:06 AM   #21544
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Well, it's certainly colourful...

Something looks wrong with the shock bottoms though, not sitting on the shock ends properly.
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Old 07-10-2014, 06:07 AM   #21545
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Looks like you have the incorrect shock ends on the shocks. You need to change them to the short ones to fit the mini.
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Old 07-10-2014, 06:11 AM   #21546
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I'd figured I'd post this message from John Brown, who is sponsoring the next TCS on July 27th in case anyone missed it

"ATTENTION!!!

All M-chassis racers. If you we're lucky enough to get the new M05 Ver 2 you WILL be able to run it at our July 27th race but will be restricted to a maximum of 50c batteries. I spoke with Fred at Tamiya and to keep the field even he agreed with this restriction. "
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Old 07-10-2014, 06:51 AM   #21547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
Well, it's certainly colourful...
Something looks wrong with the shock bottoms though, not sitting on the shock ends properly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by axle182 View Post
Looks like you have the incorrect shock ends on the shocks. You need to change them to the short ones to fit the mini.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I currently use :
#54000 - M-Chassis Aluminum Damper Set
#54583 - M-05 Ball Head Suspension Shafts - Titanium Coated @ Front
#54296 - M-06 Ball Head Suspension Shafts - Titanium Coated @ Rear

I tried to install the shorter shock ends, but it lifted the front and rear arms, and the ground clearance were around 1 - 1.5 mm (with 55mm tires)

Therefore, I opted for longer version of the shock ends (available from #54000), and this provides better ground clearance for the chassis.
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:42 AM   #21548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clawhammers View Post
Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I currently use :
#54000 - M-Chassis Aluminum Damper Set
#54583 - M-05 Ball Head Suspension Shafts - Titanium Coated @ Front
#54296 - M-06 Ball Head Suspension Shafts - Titanium Coated @ Rear

I tried to install the shorter shock ends, but it lifted the front and rear arms, and the ground clearance were around 1 - 1.5 mm (with 55mm tires)

Therefore, I opted for longer version of the shock ends (available from #54000), and this provides better ground clearance for the chassis.
When using the option carbon rear shock tower, you build the shocks w/out the o-ring spacers. Your shock will be longer so you can use the short shock ends or couplers. The fronts can be built according to the instructions.

The long couplers are, under normal circumstances, never used on an on road Mini.

Last edited by Granpa; 07-10-2014 at 08:45 AM. Reason: correction
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Old 07-10-2014, 10:38 AM   #21549
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@Granpa
I did consider that factor when building the shocks. I decided not to insert the o-ring spacers and the urethane bushing inside the shocks. Thus I have longer play of the suspension shafts.

At first I installed the shorter couplers, then I realized that the clearance were too low. That's the reason why I used the longer couplers. Nevertheless, I believe that this mini still needs lots of suspension tuning and adjustments.

Gonna run it on Sunday
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Old 07-10-2014, 11:13 AM   #21550
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If you run in a spec class, I would suggest you pull off all that alloy and weigh it and then compare with the plastic bits weight. You might have a surprise.
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Old 07-10-2014, 11:44 AM   #21551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clawhammers View Post
@Granpa
I did consider that factor when building the shocks. I decided not to insert the o-ring spacers and the urethane bushing inside the shocks. Thus I have longer play of the suspension shafts.

At first I installed the shorter couplers, then I realized that the clearance were too low. That's the reason why I used the longer couplers. Nevertheless, I believe that this mini still needs lots of suspension tuning and adjustments.

Gonna run it on Sunday
Sorry I couldn't be of help. One other point tho, if you left out the white spacer on the bottom of the shock, I urge you to put that back in. Sometimes the hardest thing is to figure out which piece you are talking about. Other than the black o-ring, there is nothing else inside the shock body other than the piston rod and the piston.

Something sounds odd here cause I've never seen an M05 with the long couplers. I still believe it's in the shock build, but, as in all things, I could be wrong. Hard to tell from just the pictures.

Last edited by Granpa; 07-10-2014 at 11:57 AM. Reason: addition
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Old 07-10-2014, 12:21 PM   #21552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clawhammers View Post
Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I currently use :
#54000 - M-Chassis Aluminum Damper Set
#54583 - M-05 Ball Head Suspension Shafts - Titanium Coated @ Front
#54296 - M-06 Ball Head Suspension Shafts - Titanium Coated @ Rear

I tried to install the shorter shock ends, but it lifted the front and rear arms, and the ground clearance were around 1 - 1.5 mm (with 55mm tires)

Therefore, I opted for longer version of the shock ends (available from #54000), and this provides better ground clearance for the chassis.

I think you built them right. When mounting the shock to the M-06 Ball Head Suspension Shafts you need the extra length. I know this to be true in the front end, but I am not sure about the rear.
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Old 07-10-2014, 01:11 PM   #21553
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This should explain the long damper situation, the way Tamiya intended it standard:

Long eyelet/rod-end on the front and short/standard eyelet/rod-end in the back, use of carbon shock towers shouldn't matter by the looks of things. Amount of o-rings inside should be determined by the amount of droop you want.


Last edited by JosB; 07-10-2014 at 01:17 PM. Reason: additional info
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Old 07-10-2014, 02:27 PM   #21554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
Sorry I couldn't be of help. One other point tho, if you left out the white spacer on the bottom of the shock, I urge you to put that back in. Sometimes the hardest thing is to figure out which piece you are talking about. Other than the black o-ring, there is nothing else inside the shock body other than the piston rod and the piston.

Something sounds odd here cause I've never seen an M05 with the long couplers. I still believe it's in the shock build, but, as in all things, I could be wrong. Hard to tell from just the pictures.

It's okay Granpa. I really appreciate all helps I could get from this forum

I didn't left out the white spacer on the bottom of the shock. The urethane bumper is the pinky Tamiya #53577, which was suggested (in the shock's manual) to be put in the upper side of the shock.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hanson View Post
I think you built them right. When mounting the shock to the M-06 Ball Head Suspension Shafts you need the extra length. I know this to be true in the front end, but I am not sure about the rear.
@Jamie Hanson - it is the same. Both front and rear ball head suspension shafts require additional length, i.e., by using longer coupler.



Quote:
Originally Posted by JosB View Post
This should explain the long damper situation, the way Tamiya intended it standard:

Long eyelet/rod-end on the front and short/standard eyelet/rod-end in the back, use of carbon shock towers shouldn't matter by the looks of things. Amount of o-rings inside should be determined by the amount of droop you want.

@JosB
Thanks for sharing the pics mate
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Old 07-11-2014, 12:17 AM   #21555
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I received a completely unexpected envelope from Stellamodels today. It contain a shim and instructions for fixing the steering lopsided-ness thing. Great service!

I haven't noticed the problem yet. Could be because I'm using the Yeah Racing linkage. Not sure.
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