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Old 06-30-2014, 08:31 PM   #21466
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Carman 1981------- great post
Thank you Granpa.

I looked at my car tonight, took off the wheels, and shocks, there's a little more slop in the front hubs than when it was new, but over all, it looks pretty much in the same condition as when new.
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Old 07-01-2014, 02:32 AM   #21467
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stellemodels were nice enough to post out additional instructions and the shim for the M05V2 kit, well done stella!
For those of you that haven't received it, here's a copy.
I was wondering why the right wiper arm kept binding up.
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Tamiya mini cooper-v2addition.jpg  
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Old 07-01-2014, 04:18 AM   #21468
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hi guys the 3racing gear diff for m06 is out of stock almost everywhere online. Now I'm wondering, would the diff from the FF 2014 fit in?
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:20 PM   #21469
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I need some help folks..

M05 Chassis
Orca TX 21.5 motor (timing in between the + and -)
Ta03 ball diff (i am switching to gear diff today though)
Speed passion reventon R ESC
Protek 3800mah 50c Lipo
Ceramic bearings all around

So im mainly looking to get some speed... the top guy in my area is running a thunder power 21.5... not sure what lipo.... but on a straights, i am noticably slower...

Anyone have experience with Orca TX 21.5... im trying to figure out timing..
Could it be my pack or my ESC??
Or did i pick the wrong motor?


One other question... What shock oil? springs? and how many shims front and rear for droop?

Thanks everyone...
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:29 PM   #21470
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I need some help folks..

M05 Chassis
Orca TX 21.5 motor (timing in between the + and -)
Ta03 ball diff (i am switching to gear diff today though)
Speed passion reventon R ESC
Protek 3800mah 50c Lipo
Ceramic bearings all around

So im mainly looking to get some speed... the top guy in my area is running a thunder power 21.5... not sure what lipo.... but on a straights, i am noticably slower...

Anyone have experience with Orca TX 21.5... im trying to figure out timing..
Could it be my pack or my ESC??
Or did i pick the wrong motor?


One other question... What shock oil? springs? and how many shims front and rear for droop?

Thanks everyone...
Did you crank the endbell past the factory markings? For the TX motor you need to go 2-2.5mm past the last advance mark to get into the sweet spot. There is also a 12.3 and 12.5 rotor too. But with the limited gearing on the mini, you may need to experiment. Maybe that other guy is using some aftermarket high speed gear set?
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Old 07-01-2014, 01:28 PM   #21471
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Did you crank the endbell past the factory markings? For the TX motor you need to go 2-2.5mm past the last advance mark to get into the sweet spot. There is also a 12.3 and 12.5 rotor too. But with the limited gearing on the mini, you may need to experiment. Maybe that other guy is using some aftermarket high speed gear set?
BTW its TCS legal...

The fast guy is on all TCS legal stuff and does not have high speed gear set...

i cranked the motor to 2mm above the + and it was kind of hot... 156 degrees... still was not close... so i thought that was meant for top end... so i brought down the timing to the middle mark.... still not luck...
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Old 07-01-2014, 02:27 PM   #21472
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Originally Posted by OSherman View Post
we are waiting for the kits to arrive

this thread is worthless without kits
indeed!
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Old 07-01-2014, 02:59 PM   #21473
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Originally Posted by -jacob- View Post
BTW its TCS legal...

The fast guy is on all TCS legal stuff and does not have high speed gear set...

i cranked the motor to 2mm above the + and it was kind of hot... 156 degrees... still was not close... so i thought that was meant for top end... so i brought down the timing to the middle mark.... still not luck...
I guess that's the problem in allowing different brands of 21.5s. With a fixed ratio, the motor that is tuned for RPM will be faster. Torque is not really that of an importance on the 2wd minis imo. Another issue with brushless is that it will overheat if you are under or over geared. So you become limited on which motors will work best. I can gear my TX pretty low, lower than other motors I tested in TC and temp fine. Unfortunately, you can't do that in a mini...
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Old 07-01-2014, 10:03 PM   #21474
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Default M05 rear end wiggles

Okay time for one that I hope is not a mystery to someone out there.

I have been running my mini for over a year with good success but always had an issue where the rear end will start wiggling side to side once it reaches top speed on a straight. Typically it is just an annoyance but on occasion the wiggling results in a fairly strong turn to one direction or the other. It only happens once the car is at top speed, any acceleration keeps it under control.

I have adjusted the front toe both in and out to varying degrees and found zero, oddly, to work the best. The rear is stock toe. I have adjusted the camber from zero to -2.5 and seen no difference. I have tried various tires, treaded and non, front and rear and seen very slight changes in the behavior (brand new s-grips on the rear with slicks on the front seem to be the best). Track is a medium size parking lot with soda so traction tends to be very good.

I have not tried adding weight but have changed spring rates, oil weights and shock positions with no luck. I have also changed ride height front to rear and found lowering the rear slightly to bring it level with the front does help the rear but I lose so much steering it is not worth it.

Thanks for any thoughts and please let me know if there is any more info you would like.

Jason
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Old 07-02-2014, 12:01 AM   #21475
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Originally Posted by AzFittin View Post
Okay time for one that I hope is not a mystery to someone out there.

I have been running my mini for over a year with good success but always had an issue where the rear end will start wiggling side to side once it reaches top speed on a straight. Typically it is just an annoyance but on occasion the wiggling results in a fairly strong turn to one direction or the other. It only happens once the car is at top speed, any acceleration keeps it under control.

I have adjusted the front toe both in and out to varying degrees and found zero, oddly, to work the best. The rear is stock toe. I have adjusted the camber from zero to -2.5 and seen no difference. I have tried various tires, treaded and non, front and rear and seen very slight changes in the behavior (brand new s-grips on the rear with slicks on the front seem to be the best). Track is a medium size parking lot with soda so traction tends to be very good.

I have not tried adding weight but have changed spring rates, oil weights and shock positions with no luck. I have also changed ride height front to rear and found lowering the rear slightly to bring it level with the front does help the rear but I lose so much steering it is not worth it.

Thanks for any thoughts and please let me know if there is any more info you would like.

Jason
How much shock travel are you running? Sounds a bit like the rear is running without any droop, so the springs are pre loaded. This may explain why the car is stable with a lower rear ride height. Try lengthening the rear shocks so you have 0.5 to 1mm shock extension when you lift the car from its ride height.
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Old 07-02-2014, 01:10 AM   #21476
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Hi guys,

I'm playing with tyre combinations and was wondering, is there a general rule for front rand back? i.e. softer tyre on the front and harder on the back?

I'm mostly driving it on a medium grip asphalt track.
Ryan
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Old 07-02-2014, 03:01 AM   #21477
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Mostly harder front/softer rear here. Thats what i was advised by the other racers and tbh it works. I run sweeps and use 40 front/33 rear
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:08 AM   #21478
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Thanks for the response.

My next question is, is it ok to use a LiPo with the standard ESC and silver can motor?
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Old 07-02-2014, 07:18 AM   #21479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inpuressa View Post
Did you crank the endbell past the factory markings?
I believe the TCS rules prohibit setting the timing past the markings on the can. While I'm not sure which motor offers the most total timing, that's probably going to be the motor of choice until Tamiya does the right thing and spec one motor for this class.
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:02 AM   #21480
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I have been using lipo with the standard esc for about 9mths. Batteries are fine and seem to cut off before going to low so the esc has got low voltage protection (Which i was informed it did have)

However after googling the specs it doesnt seem to have Lipo protection rather LiFe. Hmmm either i have got very lucky and not damaged my batteries or something is amiss online with the specs.

On this note, i was going to ask anyhow, what would a be a good upgrade on the standard model if i plan to stick with brushless. Is there any point in upgrading. Not looking at spending a lot, say 50
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