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Old 06-29-2014, 09:30 AM   #21451
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Almost. Guy bought it and never really used it. Bench top, 8", 5 speed. Looks pretty much like this.

Nice
I would have jumped on that too
Have fun with it!
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Old 06-29-2014, 03:42 PM   #21452
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Are you talking about steering linkage? I've been using Associated 33mm titanium parts. I grind a tiny bit off the end so they're the sand length as stock Tamiya bits. Or, do you mean the actual plastic ball cups? Tamiya 53601. Eight in a pack and pretty cheap.
Just the cups! I've never shattered an end, but those plastics seem to break easily =(
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Old 06-29-2014, 04:17 PM   #21453
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Ran the car at the track today. One thing was obvious, the car is getting bogged down coming out of bends. I know I can improve my lines but I think the diff that started way too tight for me has now loosened up too much. It's a 3racing geared diff using standard supplied oil. I think now it's bedded in the stock oil is too thin. Any suggestion for replacing the oil. Don't want to effectively lock the diff, just say 10-15% thicker than standard. Trouble is I can't find out what standard is
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Old 06-29-2014, 04:33 PM   #21454
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Originally Posted by Thelittlesthobo View Post
Ran the car at the track today. One thing was obvious, the car is getting bogged down coming out of bends. I know I can improve my lines but I think the diff that started way too tight for me has now loosened up too much. It's a 3racing geared diff using standard supplied oil. I think now it's bedded in the stock oil is too thin. Any suggestion for replacing the oil. Don't want to effectively lock the diff, just say 10-15% thicker than standard. Trouble is I can't find out what standard is
Standard is 2k and it is much too light. The seals in the gear diff break in a lot on the 3Racing diff and the diff changes dramatically after a few race meetings. With a well-broken in diff I now run 100K.
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Old 06-29-2014, 07:31 PM   #21455
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Thanks. Personal choice etc but I don't want to put 3/4/5000 in if it needs 100,000
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Old 06-29-2014, 09:13 PM   #21456
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For the few that have the Pro v2, please share your knowledge. A mate had the car at the track on the weekend and was having all sorts of problems. He brought it to me to look it over and noticed the lower shock mount on the front arms was half worn off. It had been scraping on the carpet and corner dots. This doesn't seem right that it would scrape. Just looked at the manual now (not my car so I can't see it now) and it doesn't say to cut them off. Could he have had the arms on upside down? Any other possibilities?
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Old 06-29-2014, 09:57 PM   #21457
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Hi,
has any1 tried using a solid axle at the front, instead of gear diff??
need your opinion before I get 1.

Thanks

Last edited by hobbs; 06-29-2014 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 06-30-2014, 04:48 AM   #21458
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At my club last Friday a guy was measuring the output of the Silvercans on a dyno linked to his laptop - looked very professional!

The Mabuchis and Johnson's (2 hole) were around 17k - 19k rpm. I can't recall what actual power output's were though.

When we stuck my Johnson silvercan from a famous silvercan tuner on there it was around 29k rpm!

I thought I'd share that as I was amazed at how much more speed there is available from these motors!
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Old 06-30-2014, 05:26 AM   #21459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sith Lord View Post
For the few that have the Pro v2, please share your knowledge. A mate had the car at the track on the weekend and was having all sorts of problems. He brought it to me to look it over and noticed the lower shock mount on the front arms was half worn off. It had been scraping on the carpet and corner dots. This doesn't seem right that it would scrape. Just looked at the manual now (not my car so I can't see it now) and it doesn't say to cut them off. Could he have had the arms on upside down? Any other possibilities?
You are right that it doesn't say to cut them off, but I would presume that you do. Having them like this means that the arms are universal which means less moulding for Tamiya.
You could also just cut them both off and fit the ball shaft suspension pin.

Whatever you do, don't break them as there aren't any spares available individually yet.
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Old 06-30-2014, 08:55 AM   #21460
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Originally Posted by Sith Lord View Post
For the few that have the Pro v2, please share your knowledge. A mate had the car at the track on the weekend and was having all sorts of problems. He brought it to me to look it over and noticed the lower shock mount on the front arms was half worn off. It had been scraping on the carpet and corner dots. This doesn't seem right that it would scrape. Just looked at the manual now (not my car so I can't see it now) and it doesn't say to cut them off. Could he have had the arms on upside down? Any other possibilities?
Guess you missed it, but I posted that these need to be ground off. Also, you need to "glue" metal plates to the chassis where the droop screws hit. Go back a few pages and you'll find a few solutions-----some a lot better than others.
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Old 06-30-2014, 09:08 AM   #21461
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Does the Mini Cooper body (50795) fit on a V2 chassis? Trying to get a Mini Cooper body to throw together for the wife, but my knowledge in these areas is non existent
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Old 06-30-2014, 11:46 AM   #21462
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Does the Mini Cooper body (50795) fit on a V2 chassis? Trying to get a Mini Cooper body to throw together for the wife, but my knowledge in these areas is non existent
I have one .but it is the first generation mini used the 50D tires..I also have the new full set of 50D w/wheels ,everythings is perfect shape,it almost new..please PM
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Old 06-30-2014, 12:45 PM   #21463
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I ran the car this weekend, in Mini Outlaw 17.5 blinky class. It was actually pretty good. I basically transferred my setup from my V1 to the V2, my TRF shocks with soft in front, med springs in rear, rear soft sway bar, carbon shock towers and aluminum steering rack. The only difference was i played with my camber settings a little and i tightened my diff during the build (i will need to go to a thicker oil as i was diffing out at the end of the day in 30+ degree weather). I did not put the chassis braces on. The car was calm and easy to drive.

Over all, the transition from V1 to V2 is barely noticeable. A colleague at the track had a V2 as well, and he was 2 laps faster than his V1, but i was pretty much the same in terms of raw speed.

So was it worth it to get the V2? Pretty comparable to a V1 in terms of raw speed. The car is better balanced out of the box, no need to add weights anywhere to balance it. The droop screws are nice, oddly placed, you need to do 2-3 turns for the arm to move 1mm. Fits square packs, so that's a bonus for me as i was able to run a 5600mah battery with bullet connectors finally. Motor was a little warmer than on my V1, but i think it was more the hotter weather. My next race is in 2 weeks, i will look at my chassis to see what has worn, i have yet to tear it apart, the body is still on it from my last race!
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Old 06-30-2014, 04:18 PM   #21464
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Carman 1981------- great post
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Old 06-30-2014, 04:31 PM   #21465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sith Lord View Post
For the few that have the Pro v2, please share your knowledge. A mate had the car at the track on the weekend and was having all sorts of problems. He brought it to me to look it over and noticed the lower shock mount on the front arms was half worn off. It had been scraping on the carpet and corner dots. This doesn't seem right that it would scrape. Just looked at the manual now (not my car so I can't see it now) and it doesn't say to cut them off. Could he have had the arms on upside down? Any other possibilities?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
Guess you missed it, but I posted that these need to be ground off. Also, you need to "glue" metal plates to the chassis where the droop screws hit. Go back a few pages and you'll find a few solutions-----some a lot better than others.
Guess I did. I went back quite a way. Obviously not far enough. I'll go back further. Thanks.
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