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Old 06-17-2014, 06:41 AM   #21301
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Exactly. The ability to use square packs is new and having a small weight centered in the chassis rather than a long weight hanging off either side of the chassis will make a difference. Like Granpa said, droop is just a convenience thing. Plus, its the cost. $190 for a bare v2 chassis compared to the original $150 of m05 kits with everything but a steering servo and radio gear. At that point, you might as well buy a normal 1/10 TC as races for that are a lot more common than mini classes.
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:12 AM   #21302
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It's a similar price to the m05 pro

It's still a mini.. Your not going to get rid of the slop, the crappy geometry, brittle plastic, etc.

It's not something you can change. Stop whining about it.


I got into mini because they went brushless.
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:31 AM   #21303
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Hi all,

I’ve got the Tamiya heatsink motor plate on my M05 but without using the blue bars.

Do the bars actually work??
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Old 06-17-2014, 08:44 AM   #21304
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Yes, they help some...
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:21 AM   #21305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by filippimini View Post
I have a few questions that I thought you guys would be able to answer.
What wheels will fit my car? Are the monte carlo wheels the same size?
Will tamiya 50569 rims fit? I can only see them listed for the m03?

or are the M05 a different style?

Cheers
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The Tamiya "M-Chassis" wheels are all the same size and are specific to the M-Chassis vehicles (M01,2,3,5,5v.2)
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:08 AM   #21306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sad_rocc View Post
Plus, its the cost. $190 for a bare v2 chassis...
Depends where you buy, doesn't it? My V2 was $118. My Gold edition was $132. Shipped, each was under $150. I've seen full, all plastic kits online for around the same prices.

They supply you with a body, sure, but the kit tires are useless and the brushed motor/ESC are equally useless, due to races running brushless.

So, you've got an all plastic car, with a body, but no tires, shocks, bearings or upgraded parts that are useful for club racing. Tell me where the advantage of the regular kit is, outside of new racers entering the hobby.

My apologies if this comes across as harsh, but the reality is that the special editions make economic sense.
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:12 AM   #21307
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Kinda defeats the original purpose of the mini class imo.
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Originally Posted by SRC_DRIVER View Post
My thoughts as well.. Always liked mini BC it was easy enough for the beginner to work on and learn driving ability and not have to worry so much about tuning.
In general Mini is fun and great for all skill levels. I was talking about mini racing at the highest level. The mini class is nothing but a goldfish bowl filled with SHARKS.
The classes that you are reminiscing about are now known as Novice and GT3

when you see Eric Wippler or any of the other past mini champs passing mid level gt2 17.5 cars you'll know what I mean. Don't ask me how I know my friend's, cousin's, neighbor, saw it and told me!
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Old 06-17-2014, 11:54 AM   #21308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by filippimini View Post
Hi Guys, let me introduce myself. I'm new to RC and chose the M05 for two reasons.
1) my local club has a Mini series that runs any m05/m03 cars.
2) i have owned a 1965 Morris Mini for the past 11 years.

Ive had my M05 Mini Cooper built for about 2 weeks now and I'm getting ready to race it. My immediate plans are to add the following:
Alloy steering
Hobbywing 13t 35A combo (as per club rules)
Yeah racing shocks

I also want to change the tires and buy a few sets of wheels so that I can experiment with combos..
I am going to try both the medium and hard Shimizu Racing Mini Chassis 60 Slick Tire
I have a few questions that I thought you guys would be able to answer.
What wheels will fit my car? Are the monte carlo wheels the same size?
Will tamiya 50569 rims fit? I can only see them listed for the m03?

or are the M05 a different style?

Cheers
Filippimini
Don't waste your time and money with useless crap. Buy the Tamiya shocks if you want a good shock. The CVA minis would be a better choice than yours, but you can go the whole hog and get the TRF. One good thing is they'll be with you forever. Use the money you're going to save if you go to your local track before wasting money on tires and get some local advice.
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Old 06-17-2014, 01:36 PM   #21309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Markus View Post
In general Mini is fun and great for all skill levels. I was talking about mini racing at the highest level. The mini class is nothing but a goldfish bowl filled with SHARKS.
The classes that you are reminiscing about are now known as Novice and GT3

when you see Eric Wippler or any of the other past mini champs passing mid level gt2 17.5 cars you'll know what I mean. Don't ask me how I know my friend's, cousin's, neighbor, saw it and told me!
You're both right. A lot of the so called SHARKS, started in the D, E or lower Mains and worked their way up. Some as you say were talented TC drivers who moved over.

What he was referring to was that were not seeing as many new Mini racers showing up. I suspect he believes it's due to the new rules. Of course, some started racing Mini because of switch to B/L motors. I suspect tho, that these are not the new racers that he was referring to.
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Old 06-17-2014, 01:57 PM   #21310
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hy guys,

i am heaving an issue building my V2...
at step 17 -19

building the SWB Model , the rear upper mounts for the uprights do not move as they should when attached. the arms hardly can move if attached.
as long as i think tamiya would have known this before releasing, i guess i made some mistakes
but which ?

as you can see on the photo, the angle after attaching is to much..
thanks for your help...
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya mini cooper-foto-1-1.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-foto-2-1.jpg  
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Old 06-17-2014, 02:51 PM   #21311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aitutaki View Post
hy guys,

i am heaving an issue building my V2...
at step 17 -19

building the SWB Model , the rear upper mounts for the uprights do not move as they should when attached. the arms hardly can move if attached.
as long as i think tamiya would have known this before releasing, i guess i made some mistakes
but which ?

as you can see on the photo, the angle after attaching is to much..
thanks for your help...
Looks normal.
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Old 06-17-2014, 02:58 PM   #21312
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Originally Posted by EricP View Post
Looks normal.
thanks eric, so than i have to sandpaper the ends. it really does not move as it should. strange.
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Old 06-17-2014, 03:01 PM   #21313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aitutaki View Post
thanks eric, so than i have to sandpaper the ends. it really does not move as it should. strange.
You shouldn't have to sand anything. I would check if there's binding in other places before sanding anything.

Does it move, or is it actually not moving at all? It doesn't look like the ball connector is rubbing anything. I do know that angle does look strange as the arm articulates.
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Old 06-17-2014, 03:20 PM   #21314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricP View Post
You shouldn't have to sand anything. I would check if there's binding in other places before sanding anything.

Does it move, or is it actually not moving at all? It doesn't look like the ball connector is rubbing anything. I do know that angle does look strange as the arm articulates.
it moves fine as long as i don't attach it to the ball connector.
then it stops moving itself , and only does when i do it manually
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Old 06-17-2014, 03:57 PM   #21315
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Problem temporarily solved. I changed the 5mm ball connectors against the screws from the m-05 Basic Kit . Now it works. But i think it will obly work for the plastic Kit uprights...
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