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Old 06-04-2014, 10:59 AM   #21091
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Just getting into the mini racing, Anything else I need for the version 2 pro kit to be ready to race?
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Old 06-04-2014, 02:09 PM   #21092
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The v2 Pro doesn't have a great spec. It will be driveable and raceable but it isn't the Mini at it's "best" (compare with the older #92228 Silver Spec M05 to get an idea of what a real "Pro" kit would have been like)

The clear CVA shocks have a reputation for breaking (never actually owned them myself), I like to have the short TRF shocks on my cars although black plastic CVAs are OK-ish. Use Tamiya's short springs.

The front gear diff is too "open". You can try packing it with putty to get a tighter action, or use a Tamiya ball diff (TA03 diff is preferable is you can find one). Best solution is an aftermarket oil-filled gear diff (I use the 3Racing diff) but you wouldn't be able to use that under some rules. CVD driveshafts are nice too.

You might want to consider upgrading the steering arms and rack to the alloy items as the plastic ones are a bit sloppy. At least it comes with the aluminium steering posts as standard which are a big step forward from the original plastic parts.

Durability wise the plastic front knuckles can get damaged easily on some tracks, the car is generally solid though.

Other parts that I generally like on my car are the stand-up front shock tower (which just makes the car better everywhere for some reason) and the softer of the rear anti-roll bars (which also makes the car better everywhere).
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Old 06-04-2014, 03:07 PM   #21093
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yes, those clear shocks are absolute rubbish. It has no give, so it cracks easily. Don't know why they bother to still make them. Just a ploy to make you buy the TRF shocks lol.
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Old 06-04-2014, 03:23 PM   #21094
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
The v2 Pro doesn't have a great spec. It will be driveable and raceable but it isn't the Mini at it's "best" (compare with the older #92228 Silver Spec M05 to get an idea of what a real "Pro" kit would have been like)

The clear CVA shocks have a reputation for breaking (never actually owned them myself), I like to have the short TRF shocks on my cars although black plastic CVAs are OK-ish. Use Tamiya's short springs.

The front gear diff is too "open". You can try packing it with putty to get a tighter action, or use a Tamiya ball diff (TA03 diff is preferable is you can find one). Best solution is an aftermarket oil-filled gear diff (I use the 3Racing diff) but you wouldn't be able to use that under some rules. CVD driveshafts are nice too.

You might want to consider upgrading the steering arms and rack to the alloy items as the plastic ones are a bit sloppy. At least it comes with the aluminium steering posts as standard which are a big step forward from the original plastic parts.

Durability wise the plastic front knuckles can get damaged easily on some tracks, the car is generally solid though.

Other parts that I generally like on my car are the stand-up front shock tower (which just makes the car better everywhere for some reason) and the softer of the rear anti-roll bars (which also makes the car better everywhere).
When you say steering arms and rack do you mean:



and

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Old 06-04-2014, 04:17 PM   #21095
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Originally Posted by Carnage9270 View Post
When you say steering arms and rack do you mean:



and

Top pic is what I would call the upright, these are a nice part to have but only if the plastic parts break too often for your taste.

The second pic is what I meant by the steering arms. Nice to have, the Tamiya plastic is wobbly and contributes to the M05's greatest weakness (not going in a straight line)

What I call the rack is part #54192.
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Old 06-04-2014, 04:36 PM   #21096
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Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
Top pic is what I would call the upright, these are a nice part to have but only if the plastic parts break too often for your taste.

The second pic is what I meant by the steering arms. Nice to have, the Tamiya plastic is wobbly and contributes to the M05's greatest weakness (not going in a straight line)

What I call the rack is part #54192.
Ahh perfect, thank you. Another question, I'm looking for the DCV's and I'm not seeing anything made by Tamiya, is this one of the parts they don't allow to be 3rd party?
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Old 06-04-2014, 04:52 PM   #21097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carnage9270 View Post
Ahh perfect, thank you. Another question, I'm looking for the DCV's and I'm not seeing anything made by Tamiya, is this one of the parts they don't allow to be 3rd party?
Try Tamiya universal shaft set #53597 if thats what you mean
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Old 06-04-2014, 06:20 PM   #21098
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Originally Posted by 32819toon View Post
can someone explain why arms and motorplate are needed for converting to the new lipo chassis. Why not just the chassis ?
Thanks
The arms probably aren't 100% necessary, but I suspect the motor plate is a little more vital, as it's part of the motor relocation changes. I still think it'd be possible to fit an old motor plate, although you wouldn't be taking full advantage of the changes. The "regular" kit will likely come with a plastic version of the plate anyway.

EDIT: Couldn't resist. Ordered. $118 on Stellamodels.
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:19 AM   #21099
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I'm trying to find some lipos to fit my m05 and am having a tough time. I really don't want to pay $40-50 for the reedy wolfpacks. Many people have said these turnigy ones fit http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=19692 even though the picture shows a square case. Are there any other batteries around that price range that fit? I can't mod anything because I need to stay within TCS rules.
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:25 AM   #21100
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They do fit and they give great punch to your car.
Arrowind batteries are to big.
Yeah Racing has way less C to be so much fun.
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:28 AM   #21101
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You too Monkeyracing. I could not help myself.
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:29 AM   #21102
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Originally Posted by sad_rocc View Post
I'm trying to find some lipos to fit my m05 and am having a tough time. I really don't want to pay $40-50 for the reedy wolfpacks. Many people have said these turnigy ones fit http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=19692 even though the picture shows a square case. Are there any other batteries around that price range that fit? I can't mod anything because I need to stay within TCS rules.
This is what I use:

http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-25c-35...se-direct.html
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:58 AM   #21103
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Cool, thats in the right price range, but a little wimpy compared to the Turnigy one. Is there a noticeable difference between 3400mah 25c and 4200mah 40c? I'd buy the turnigy but its out of stock in the US and I don't want to wait around for international shipping.
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Old 06-05-2014, 07:24 AM   #21104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
...Couldn't resist. Ordered. $118 on Stellamodels.
Where is Stellamodels located?
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Old 06-05-2014, 07:28 AM   #21105
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Originally Posted by sad_rocc View Post
Cool, thats in the right price range, but a little wimpy compared to the Turnigy one. Is there a noticeable difference between 3400mah 25c and 4200mah 40c? I'd buy the turnigy but its out of stock in the US and I don't want to wait around for international shipping.
On the tracks where I run, this is sufficient to spin the front tires for about half the length of the straight (running silvercan). I wouldn't be able to use more power. On a high traction track the result might be different.
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