Tamiya mini cooper
All the pictures, including the manual, show Philips.
Don't know if it just the finish or the angle on the photos, but it looks like the portion of the chassis that holds the diff might be narrower. The Bosses for thr bumper screws seem to jut out a little more that before. Also, the front upper arm mounts appear beefier. If this update addresses a lot of the things about the 05 I hated, I may end up shelving the 03. The biggest bonus is the droop adjustment and square batteries. Never having to build dampers to a specific length again is very appealing and finding ROAR approved round packs is getting harder all the time. I can get approved, squared, shorties for less cash. Just in time, too. All my stick packs are getting weak and starting to puff a little.
Don't know if it just the finish or the angle on the photos, but it looks like the portion of the chassis that holds the diff might be narrower. The Bosses for thr bumper screws seem to jut out a little more that before. Also, the front upper arm mounts appear beefier. If this update addresses a lot of the things about the 05 I hated, I may end up shelving the 03. The biggest bonus is the droop adjustment and square batteries. Never having to build dampers to a specific length again is very appealing and finding ROAR approved round packs is getting harder all the time. I can get approved, squared, shorties for less cash. Just in time, too. All my stick packs are getting weak and starting to puff a little.
Hoping that my hex kits will work on this V2
Tech Master
iTrader: (49)
Speaking of hex kits, is there a preference as to which hex kit to go with? I'm not running TCS, but I wasn't sure if that would be an issue or not. Oh, I'd be interested in hex hardware for both M-03 and M-05. Thanks!
Tech Elite
I'd suggest doing a google search for metric hardware. Go thru your instruction manual to find the right sizes. Some sources sell only in boxes of 100 in most sizes and others will sell singles. In many cases, you'll be buying higher grades of hardware. You'll also find steel, aluminum and stainless steel. The last box of 3X10 mm button heads, which are the most common size, cost me a little over $6.
I should add that investing in a 3mm tap is a good ides. I generally will tap the holes part way cause w/out doing that, the screws get difficult to thread. This makes it hard to know when you've cinched the screw down properly. Places like Harbor Freight have them for a few bucks. You don't need a quality tap here cause you're just tapping plastic.
Last edited by Granpa; 05-19-2014 at 10:24 AM. Reason: addition
Tech Master
iTrader: (49)
Thanks, Granpa. You're confirming what I've been thinking. I've done that a few times in the past for other vehicles and I'm used to buying bulk hardware for non-hobby related stuff. I suppose the little kits just seem so appealing for their convenience.
On another note, my 10 year old son built an M-03L yesterday. Just need to tidy up some wiring and paint the body. He's proud of that car, and I'm proud of him for building it himself!
On another note, my 10 year old son built an M-03L yesterday. Just need to tidy up some wiring and paint the body. He's proud of that car, and I'm proud of him for building it himself!
Personally speaking I don't think there are any benefits to changing to hex hardware on a Mini.
The biggest improvement you can make is to start using a JIS pattern cross head screwdriver rather than an American/European Phillips head (the two are not the same). A Tamiya tool would be the ideal choice, I have TOP tools which are JIS, I suspect a few of the other expensive RC brand tools are JIS too. Phillips screwdrivers strip the heads of JIS screws.
The tapping thread of the kit screws is ideal for the ABS plastic most of the car is made out of, the screw hole tolerances are engineered for tapping screws as well. You'll find that machine screws strip out the ABS a lot more often because they don't cut very deep into the relatively soft material.
The biggest improvement you can make is to start using a JIS pattern cross head screwdriver rather than an American/European Phillips head (the two are not the same). A Tamiya tool would be the ideal choice, I have TOP tools which are JIS, I suspect a few of the other expensive RC brand tools are JIS too. Phillips screwdrivers strip the heads of JIS screws.
The tapping thread of the kit screws is ideal for the ABS plastic most of the car is made out of, the screw hole tolerances are engineered for tapping screws as well. You'll find that machine screws strip out the ABS a lot more often because they don't cut very deep into the relatively soft material.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
Interesting point. I read up on Philips screws recently. It was interesting to learn that true Philips screws were designed to strip from the very beginning. They were designed to be a torque limited fastener for automotive production lines. It would be nice if the newer non-stripping versions and their drivers were better marketed, rather than all cross shaped items being called Philips. I don't think Philips even makes the original style anymore.
In any case, I play it safe and use hex head M3 hardware. It's cheap, plentiful and very rarely strips a head.
In any case, I play it safe and use hex head M3 hardware. It's cheap, plentiful and very rarely strips a head.
Tech Elite
Personally speaking I don't think there are any benefits to changing to hex hardware on a Mini.
The biggest improvement you can make is to start using a JIS pattern cross head screwdriver rather than an American/European Phillips head (the two are not the same). A Tamiya tool would be the ideal choice, I have TOP tools which are JIS, I suspect a few of the other expensive RC brand tools are JIS too. Phillips screwdrivers strip the heads of JIS screws.
The tapping thread of the kit screws is ideal for the ABS plastic most of the car is made out of, the screw hole tolerances are engineered for tapping screws as well. You'll find that machine screws strip out the ABS a lot more often because they don't cut very deep into the relatively soft material.
The biggest improvement you can make is to start using a JIS pattern cross head screwdriver rather than an American/European Phillips head (the two are not the same). A Tamiya tool would be the ideal choice, I have TOP tools which are JIS, I suspect a few of the other expensive RC brand tools are JIS too. Phillips screwdrivers strip the heads of JIS screws.
The tapping thread of the kit screws is ideal for the ABS plastic most of the car is made out of, the screw hole tolerances are engineered for tapping screws as well. You'll find that machine screws strip out the ABS a lot more often because they don't cut very deep into the relatively soft material.
I hated the Tamiya screws until I purchased a set of Tamiya screwdrivers. What a difference. Still use hex hardware most places, but have gone back to some of the step screws.
Since i started Changing out the hexs i had to only get 2 of these because i have two mini's and they are fairly inexpensive http://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-ts...h=595_744_1389
You all brought up some good points that i didn't really think of.
You all brought up some good points that i didn't really think of.
IMO the Titanium screws are a waste of money, I can get a full set of stainless steel hex screws for an M05 for less than £6.50 ($11)
You could do that.
Or you could visit your friendly pick-a-part down the road and find the old (seventies? eighties?) Corolla with the original tool set still in the boot. They have a JIS screwdriver as standard. The blade actually pulls out and it's a flat blade at the other end! Cost 50 cents, perhaps?
As for metric hardware, surprisingly (or maybe not), the US is a good source of just about anything you want. Maryland Metrics (?) is a company I used for some really weird stuff like M7 pitch 1 allen head screws that french car manufacturers obnoxiously insist on using! Just don't tell anyone else or my M7 racket downunder will run aground.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
There are virtually none of those sedans left here in the pick a part.
I bought a jis tamiya screwdriver from banzai. It was like $3. Considering I used to sell screwdrivers that were $18, it felt like a bargain.
I bought a jis tamiya screwdriver from banzai. It was like $3. Considering I used to sell screwdrivers that were $18, it felt like a bargain.
Tech Fanatic
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R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
Heres a nice 30 page article on things that look like Phillips but aren't. Link leads directly to page 10: Phillips vs JIS.
Yeah, here too, people have started to pimp them up and sell for serious money. Sometimes you get lucky though. I have two screwdrivers recovered from such finds.