I)arkness

iTrader: (7)

i never had slop without the droop screws, just meant i had to adjust it with the shock length.

more curious to where the screw will hit to adjust it.

FMW

iTrader: (1)

I really don't know at this point. Once we have samples to build we will know what is transferable.

Schs2013

I have aquired another M05 since summer racing is about hear i want to make a mod mini with a sw3/4600kv on 2s do you guys think it can be done without killing the car?

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Thanks Fred! Pretty sure all us addicts are equally eager to have a first look!

Minis need slop! You know that. I had a set of M03 upper arms once that had droop screws built into them. They were L shaped and the screws butted up against the side of the chassis. Can't remember if they worked, but at this point, anything's better than building and rebuilding shocks to be a certain length. Looking forward to this!

Of course you can. The rc-mini guys have been stuffing ridiculous motors and cheater gears into mini for years, to do velodrome speed runs. They've managed as much as 116kph! I messed around with a 6t motor and speed gears last year. Indoor tracks aren;'t quite enough for this combo.

velo mini!

+ YouTube Video

I)arkness

iTrader: (7)

ah velo, so good, in fact we are doing it again tomorrow

WOO!!

fleetmaster

iTrader: (16)

Droop screws are a big plus !!

Schs2013

Wow 116kph. I was looking at touring/mod touring car speeds.
Thanks for the advice and video link.

KA2AEV

iTrader: (1)

That's really cool to be able to do speeds like that with a mini
Thanks for that video Link!!!

Slot-machine

iTrader: (1)

I have 3 M chassis cars where gear mesh is quite good when using Mabuchi brushed motors. But when I use any brushless motor and same pinion the mesh is too loose. Anybody else have this problem? Ideas to fix?
Thanks

KA2AEV

iTrader: (1)

What sized pinion you using? 20T? motor?
Maybe you didn't line up the motor correctly?

Slot-machine

iTrader: (1)

Using 20 tooth and used the 20 tooth screw position for both motors in each of 3 different vehicles.

Granpa

For some reason, there is more "racket" from the gear train with a brushless motor than with the old Silvercans. Some of this comes from the motor itself and does not have anything to do with the gear mesh. Logic would tell you that the the gear mesh could not change with just a change of motors. In your situation, you could have "worn" gears or a bad pinion if the noise is excessive.

Heads up for all you TCS racers. It looks like this will be the last year the M03 will be a legal chassis for TCS racing. Don't shoot the messenger, but this is according to FMW. I'm really sorry to see this cause the M03 is the "best" chassis IMHO.

Took to the track today with my new KO Propo EX1 Version 3. Radio performed flawlessly and was much quicker in response time than my Euros. It took a bit more "work" to adapt to the programming, but it's user friendly once you figure out where everything is in the program. Another big plus for me was the throttle trigger, in that it's positioning can be adjusted to adapt to my hand size. One of the guys at the track was commenting that he liked the angle of the trigger and the stroke. Yeah, I know the "wise guys" think I should learn how to drive, instead of obsessing over minutia. But, if the stuff is there why not use it and make life a little easier.

Just thought I'd pass this along, cause it came to mind as I was finishing the transmitter prep tonite. I tend to push the foam on the wheel out of place while driving. I've been known to push it so far towards the transmitter, that it rubs and interferes with the free movement of the wheel. Not conducive to good driving. The solution to this is to use the same technique that the F1 guys use to glue on the foam tires. A lot of guys use cyano to glue the foam rubber to the wheel. I don't like this cause it can lead to a messy job and will create hard spots in the foam which feels terrible. The thin double sided tape for the F1 tires will not do this.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

No more M03? That's just silly. Any logic provided for the decision? M05 vII is probably going to be the nail in the coffin anyhow.

visuvius

iTrader: (4)

Just picked up a used M05 and I was about to pick up some stuff from Banzai for my rebuild. Can you guys tell me if any of this stuff is unnecessary:

- 54475 M05 Carbon Damper Stay - Rear
- 54277 M Chassis Rein Gear Set
- 54120 Tamiya RC HT Servo Saver Alum Horn - M Chassis
- 53924 Tamiya RC DF03 Heat Sink Bar
- 53333 RC Touring Car Tuned Spring - Set (Short)

Then for tires I'm ordering:

PS-0454 Slick Tires for M chassis 60 Classic (Medium) - Front
PS-0452 SLICK TIRE 60 CLASSIC, SOFT 2pcs - Rear
50568 Tamiya RC Radial Tires for M-Chassis X 2
51394 11 Spoke Racing Wheels - M-Chassis (4pcs) X 2
53255 Tamiya RC 60D Hard Inner Sponge - (M-Chassis) 4pcs


Does this sound about right? I just want to make sure I get everything I need in one order and don't buy anything unnecessary.

howardcano

iTrader: (37)

It's not silly if one remembers that Tamiya is in business to sell cars; that's the reason they sponsor the series.