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Old 03-17-2014, 09:17 AM   #20671
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Originally Posted by Boons View Post
Silvercan question...

Sorry guys, I know the answer will be on here somewhere but I hoping those in the know can answer my question for me.

I run my Mabuchi silvercan which I got with my standard M05 kit without any tricks or mods apart from soldering on 12awg wire and gold 4mm Tekin connectors.

Off the shelf, is there a silvercan that is faster than the rest? Or is it a case of buying severall and testing them?

Cheers!
This is a "loaded" question, cause the answer depends on what you define as a Silvercan. So simple answer first-----The Tamiya #53689 or 540J is better than your kit motor which was probably a 540SH. There are any number of things you can do to help your motor out, but the most important is to keep it clean and polish the comm every heat.

There's a thread in this Forum, Silver Can Motor Tips/Tricks, that's devoted to the care and feeding of this motor. As usual you'll have to sift out the BS. However, there are a few guys who were posting there that know how to build 25k plus 540J motors. It's not very active any more so you may have to go back a couple of pages to find it.

Now if your or your organization's standard is any thing with a silver colored can, then there are any number of fast editions available. Not an expert in this area cause these motors are considered "cheaters" for racing in my area. With this being said, a lot of people would set their cars up using these motors or use them in practice. The HPI 20 turn and the Stinger are the most popular, tho I suspect there are probably faster ones available. I've used the Stinger and like it cause it's been a zero maintenance motor especially since it's not legal for racing and are just run and run till they give up. Just take the label off and many people won't know the difference. Also, there are organizations where these motors are legal.
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Old 03-17-2014, 11:57 AM   #20672
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With plugs on the side or top? Do you have a link?
http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...=cs&pn=ASC0731

The. Wires come out the side, and they jacked the price up to 42.95 for. 3300
There Reedy wolf packs so there good batteries just a little pricey for me now. Shoulda bought it when I saw it at 19.99

Sorry.
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Last edited by Rcjunk-yard; 03-17-2014 at 12:00 PM. Reason: Wrong price
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Old 03-17-2014, 12:02 PM   #20673
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TQ RACING look for peak lipos.
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Old 03-17-2014, 02:51 PM   #20674
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I already have a Peak lipo from TQ Racing, but having the wires on the side makes the body bulge out on that side.

I am looking for a pack that fits the M03 and has the plugs coming from the top of the lipo.
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Old 03-17-2014, 03:03 PM   #20675
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SerpentCT4S View Post
I already have a Peak lipo from TQ Racing, but having the wires on the side makes the body bulge out on that side.

I am looking for a pack that fits the M03 and has the plugs coming from the top of the lipo.
I use these with bullet connectors soldered at 90 degrees.
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Old 03-17-2014, 04:07 PM   #20676
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Here's hoping that Tamiya squares up the battery slot on the next generation FWD cars, like they did with the 06. As it sits, we're stuck with a single battery, albeit with 2 different stickers. The only thing that could be worse is an M chassis designed around a LiFe pack that you can't buy in N. America and with a whole different motor and gearing. They'd never do that. Right?

Anyway, the ProTek/IP packs are decent and fit well. Just never, ever, ever leave them charged any longer than absolutely necessary.
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Old 03-17-2014, 04:24 PM   #20677
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That's a little pricey for a battery. I just use my M03 to cruise around.

Are there any packs like that that aren't as expensive?
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Old 03-17-2014, 04:26 PM   #20678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SerpentCT4S View Post
That's a little pricey for a battery. I just use my M03 to cruise around.

Are there any packs like that that aren't as expensive?
I have yet to find any...
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Old 03-17-2014, 04:50 PM   #20679
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SerpentCT4S View Post
That's a little pricey for a battery. I just use my M03 to cruise around.

Are there any packs like that that aren't as expensive?
Quote:
As it sits, we're stuck with a single battery, albeit with 2 different stickers.
There is only the one type/brand/model available. This is the only one. It's been said several times in the last few pages.
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Old 03-17-2014, 05:04 PM   #20680
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Has anybody tried any of the machine screw sets that are available? Will they work in a chassis that has already had the kit screws in it? Several companies offer them.

Cheapest set I saw http://www.tonysscrews.com/product.s...&categoryId=60
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Old 03-17-2014, 06:29 PM   #20681
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My thrust bearing plates cracked while I was leading the A3 mini heat at the harbor TCS race.


WTF...

I just checked my other diff. The thrust bearing is cracked in that one too...

Last edited by whitrzac; 03-17-2014 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 03-18-2014, 04:11 AM   #20682
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Originally Posted by rimracker View Post
Has anybody tried any of the machine screw sets that are available? Will they work in a chassis that has already had the kit screws in it? Several companies offer them.

Cheapest set I saw http://www.tonysscrews.com/product.s...&categoryId=60
I originally built my M05 with the kit screws and then bought the Tamiya titanium screw Hop Up Option pack to replace all the kit screws. I've replaced every single one and also bought the titanium hex head motor screws. The chassis screws went in no problem and they have been removed and put back for various changes with no problems at all. I can only run NIMH cells at my club and my 3000mah pack is 345gms, so the screws for me were a weight saving thing. I lost 14gms from switching the screws.
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Old 03-18-2014, 04:17 AM   #20683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
This is a "loaded" question, cause the answer depends on what you define as a Silvercan. So simple answer first-----The Tamiya #53689 or 540J is better than your kit motor which was probably a 540SH. There are any number of things you can do to help your motor out, but the most important is to keep it clean and polish the comm every heat.

There's a thread in this Forum, Silver Can Motor Tips/Tricks, that's devoted to the care and feeding of this motor. As usual you'll have to sift out the BS. However, there are a few guys who were posting there that know how to build 25k plus 540J motors. It's not very active any more so you may have to go back a couple of pages to find it.

Now if your or your organization's standard is any thing with a silver colored can, then there are any number of fast editions available. Not an expert in this area cause these motors are considered "cheaters" for racing in my area. With this being said, a lot of people would set their cars up using these motors or use them in practice. The HPI 20 turn and the Stinger are the most popular, tho I suspect there are probably faster ones available. I've used the Stinger and like it cause it's been a zero maintenance motor especially since it's not legal for racing and are just run and run till they give up. Just take the label off and many people won't know the difference. Also, there are organizations where these motors are legal.
Thanks Granpa.

I pulled my motor out last night and yes it has 540 SH etched on it. I have never cleaned the motor as my car always seemed quite fast. My car/motor was new last July. Now that I've improved my driving and I'm in the A finals, I've noticed some of the other Mini's can pull past me on the straight. From what I've seen they have the motor with the grey end bell like mine.

After blasting my motor out with HPi motor spray I applied Tamiya bearing oil to the outside of the bushes at both ends. You mention about polishing the comm, what is the best method for that?

Cheers!
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Old 03-18-2014, 06:21 AM   #20684
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Originally Posted by whitrzac View Post
My thrust bearing plates cracked while I was leading the A3 mini heat at the harbor TCS race.


WTF...

I just checked my other diff. The thrust bearing is cracked in that one too...
Pics


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Old 03-18-2014, 07:27 AM   #20685
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Wow never seen anything like that. Have you been running them along time? That looks to be
Either a manufacturing defect or a stress fatigue fracture
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