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Old 03-03-2014, 09:14 AM
  #20596  
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The spektrum will cause more pain and suffering down the road.

I raced spektrum for 4 years before switching to ko, then futaba... I will NEVER own another spektrum product.
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:22 AM
  #20597  
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Originally Posted by whitrzac
I recommend replacing the spektrum...

Look at the airtronics Mt4, futaba 4pl, etc.
Another +1. I run all Savox servos with no issues once I made the switch to KO.
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Old 03-03-2014, 10:32 AM
  #20598  
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It sounds like a receiver problem to me. The older Spektrum receivers would do what you're describing. Try switching to a later model receiver----the solid grey ones were terrible.
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Old 03-03-2014, 11:01 AM
  #20599  
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Somebody explain to me how the ESC and motor being hot is related to a failed reciever...
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Old 03-03-2014, 11:35 AM
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Because there are a lot of people who dislike Spektrum, for a perceived lack of reliability. Perceived is key. I've never had a problem in my 6 years using their stuff. 3 radios, dsm, dsm2 and dsmr receivers, noisy environments, on-road, off-road, 5 turn to 85 turn motors, Futaba, Savox, Hitec and Blue Bird servos, in rigs weighing anywhere from 200g to 4kg. The only time there was an issue was when one of those hoopty P.O.S. Flysky radios was being used nearby. But in that case, everyone had problems.

I can think of one weak point a Spektrum receiver, especially an older grey one, as Grandpa mentioned. The solder joint holding the antenna to the circuit board gets brittle. I don't suspect that's the problem though.

So, getting away from the radio, if all else is equal and others are running the same hardware on their cars and you have tried multiple cars of your own, the common factor is your batteries. How are they holding up? Are they experiencing a severe voltage sag when run? Have you tried running with the low voltage cutoff disabled?

Your motor/ESC temperatures don't seem that bad. At least not bad enough to set off the safety.

Jim
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Old 03-03-2014, 12:28 PM
  #20601  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
Somebody explain to me how the ESC and motor being hot is related to a failed reciever...
It's not. Just questioning if the problems he was experiencing were due to the esc. It could even be something as basic as a dirty comm.

I've had similar problems with specktrum equipment and after switching components, traced it back to the receiver.

You're right, a "glitchy" receiver probably won't cause the esc or motor to overheat. However, if the receiver had "failed", you wouldn't expect the steering to be working either.

Not being a radio "geek", my usual approach to electronic problems is to check the wiring and solder joints first, then start swapping out components. I'm not gifted enough to go beyond that.

Last edited by Granpa; 03-03-2014 at 12:43 PM. Reason: addition
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Old 03-03-2014, 12:35 PM
  #20602  
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Present system is a DX3S and SR3500 receiver, I did however purchase a DX3Rpro and SR3100 secondhand this weekend, just haven't fitted them yet.

Voltage wise I couldn't tell you what it is doing during the race, all I can tell you is that it takes roughly 1600mah per race. Each pack is discharged after each race, rested and then charged for the race after the following race (if you understand what I mean, each pack is used for 3 races per day).

I'll have to look up the manual to find out how to disable the lo voltage cut out.
I have ordered a fan (45063 TFU-01) to help cool the ESC.

On the subject of Fans, should I be running them directly from the battery or from the AUX port of the receiver ?
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Old 03-03-2014, 12:48 PM
  #20603  
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Just to clarify, the temperature measurements quoted earlier were in centigrade.
61 deg C = 142 deg F
53 deg C = 128 deg F
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Old 03-03-2014, 01:05 PM
  #20604  
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Originally Posted by Granpa
It could even be something as basic as a dirty comm.
The motor is cleaned with Wurth brake cleaner, the com cleaned and bushings reoiled every other race.
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Old 03-03-2014, 01:17 PM
  #20605  
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Originally Posted by marcos graveyar
The motor is cleaned with Wurth brake cleaner, the com cleaned and bushings reoiled every other race.
Because you can't skim the comm on a sealed can motor, the contact between the brush and the comm will still deteriorate over time even with regular cleaning (I've actually stopped cleaning my sealed can motors, seem to go faster dirty!). There is an argument that motor cleaner pulls the natural lubricants out of the brushes.

It may be coincidence that both the motors you tried are at the end of their life, or it may be the Spektrum/Savox combo. I'm firmly in the "Spektrum is junk" camp and I would never let it near my cars (not a fan of Savox either, too inefficient). Sanwa is probably the best bet nowadays although I'm sticking with Futaba as it has yet to let me down in about 20 years of racing.
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Old 03-03-2014, 04:08 PM
  #20606  
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Originally Posted by marcos graveyar
The motor is cleaned with Wurth brake cleaner, the com cleaned and bushings reoiled every other race.
This is off topic, but you don't use motor or brake cleaner to clean or polish the comm. While motor cleaner has a number of uses, cleaning Silver or Blackcan motors is not one of them unless you use VooDoo comm drops to polish the comm. In this case, motor cleaner is used to flush out the comm drops.

More commonly, metal polish is deposited directly on the comm via an old oiling bottle, spun over by hand, and flushed out with warm water. Motor cleaner can be used here, but water works better.

Check out the Silver Can Tips/Tricks thread in this forum. Guys have posted any number of methods to clean motors.
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Old 03-03-2014, 06:54 PM
  #20607  
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Not sure if this is the right place to ask this question... Any online store has Kyosho R246-2003 GAMBADO Mini kit in stock?
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:45 PM
  #20608  
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Default re:M05 body

Finished up a Datsun 510 body for the M05....I trimmed it up and got it ready for spray but had a buddy paint it up as my boy wanted some type of graphics on it and I wasnt up to the task. All the chrome (2 tree's worth) and decals took awhile but in the end it turned out pretty awesome.

It looks good, almost too good since we brought it to the last race but decided to keep on the table....but now we both decided to remove the wipers and mirrors and get it ready to run for the next race. Hopefully wont be too badly damaged.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya mini cooper-20140228_215144_lls.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-20140228_214926.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-20140228_214942.jpg  
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Old 03-03-2014, 08:44 PM
  #20609  
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Is the Miata body still available anywhere? And does anyone know if it fits the M05?

Thanks,
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:04 PM
  #20610  
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cool little 510. i had a real one back in the day. mine was that ugly dark green with the lime green top. lol. i peeled the top off then cleaned it up pretty good. but that was a long time ago.

so anybody been running the rabbit body on the mo5? if so hows it handle? im planning on using it for the summer series and the local tcs races. bought it out of japan and waiting for it to arrive on expedited shipping. what are the good hop ups besides bearings, shocks and the steering upgrades? what else would i need and anybody got a decent asphalt setup? on slicks and what compound would you reccomend?
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