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Old 03-02-2014, 08:22 PM   #20581
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The new generation S-Grip premounts are a lot softer than the old tires. For most it's instant traction roll if you don't cyano the sidewalls of the fronts. Some will cyano the rears also, but some don't.

If you feel the sidewalls, they fold right over with very little pressure. They also wear out much quicker than the old ones. Once properly treated with glue, they'll give you some good lap times.
Thanks for the tip. Are you using thin or medium cyano? are you also glueing the first rib on the outer edge of the front tires or just the side walls. What about the inside side wall?
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Old 03-02-2014, 08:38 PM   #20582
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Has anyone had success running a Tamiya TA03-RS with a LWB M03\05 body? Does it work, or would it be better to get regular TC bodies?
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Old 03-02-2014, 10:00 PM   #20583
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Jay, I know the M05 is brittle as hell, but why not just slap a new chassis together?
I helped Jay with his car today, and I think we identified the problem. No, it wasn't Jay.

My m03 was somewhere between awful (early) and tolerable (late) but not perfect today. Which is more than I can say for my FF. I learned a whole lot about setting up FWD today, or at least how to fix problems.

Can't wait to test again.
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Old 03-02-2014, 10:01 PM   #20584
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Thanks for the tip. Are you using thin or medium cyano? are you also glueing the first rib on the outer edge of the front tires or just the side walls. What about the inside side wall?
It's much easier to use the standard tire glue rather than the thin. The thin just runs all over the place, but the medium needs to "smeared" in to place.

Fronts----glue outside rib plus the sidewall
Rears-----just the sidewall

Actually, how you glue the tires sorta depends on your set up and how the car's handling. I think you've been around for awhile so won't presume to tell you how to do this. But, you do have to do the fronts to the edge of the 1st rib or it's no good at all. Whether you do the insides or the rears just depends on whether your car is "loose" or "tight".
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Old 03-02-2014, 10:24 PM   #20585
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
It's much easier to use the standard tire glue rather than the thin. The thin just runs all over the place, but the medium needs to "smeared" in to place.

Fronts----glue outside rib plus the sidewall
Rears-----just the sidewall

Actually, how you glue the tires sorta depends on your set up and how the car's handling. I think you've been around for awhile so won't presume to tell you how to do this. But, you do have to do the fronts to the edge of the 1st rib or it's no good at all. Whether you do the insides or the rears just depends on whether your car is "loose" or "tight".
Usually apply thin cyano with a q-tip while the tire is spinning on a balancer And use kicker to get a nice smooth finish. Glad I stil have a ton of he older tires for outdoor racing. Thanks again for the response
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Old 03-03-2014, 02:41 AM   #20586
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Had a very frustrating days racing at our indoor series on Saturday. Set TQ for round 1 and then failed to finish rounds 2 and 3 and each of the 3 A Final legs.

My car runs Spektrum radio/micro receiver, Savox 1251MG servo, Teu105Bk ESC, Sport Tuned Black Can motor, 7.2V 3700mah NiMh cells. I run a 3Racing Motor cooling fan from the Aux port of the receiver and have a glitch buster plugged into the bind port.

In Round 2 the car stopped after 290 seconds, no forward/reverse power but front wheels were able to steer, the ESC and Motor were hot. The gearbox had started to make a noise so before leg 3 I stripped it and found some bent teeth on the intermediate gear, replaced it and rebuilt it.
This time the car only ran for 100 seconds before stopping, after 40 secondss rest it started responding again but only went for a further 75 seconds. A fellow racer measured the temp of the motor/esc at 61 degrees.

For the first leg of the Finals I changed the Esc to a TEU104BK , the car stopped after 130 seconds, rested for 60 seconds and then ran for 70 seconds before coming to a halt again, each time this happens the steering is still working.
I changed the motor for leg 2, car stopped after 120 seconds. ESC/Motor temp 53 deg.
For the last leg of the final I changed to my spare car, It's SWB instead of LWB with same radio set up, savox 1256, 105ESC, no glitch buster, no fan.
I ran the original motor from the qualifying. Got as far as lap 17 and after 245 seconds the car stopped again.

Many of the guys racing use a similar setup to mine yet I was the only one who had any problem during the day. The same car has been faultless throughout the 9 previous rounds of the championship at the same venue this year.

Any thoughts ?
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Old 03-03-2014, 03:28 AM   #20587
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the 104 and 105 esc's tend to become problematic after some time. the 101 is actually more reliable. but if you could use a "higher end" esc, i would suggest you go for it.

also, i remember spektrum having some glitching problems when running along with 2.4G Futaba's and Sanwa's (TITC 2011 i think...)

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Old 03-03-2014, 05:23 AM   #20588
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Get rid of the spektrum

spektrum+savox=
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Old 03-03-2014, 08:24 AM   #20589
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Have to use the kit Tamiya ESC's.

Anybody know what level the thermal cut-ouy is on the 104/105?
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:24 AM   #20590
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:25 AM   #20591
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Originally Posted by whitrzac View Post
Get rid of the spektrum

spektrum+savox=
+1. Savox draws a ton of juice. The cap is just a temp solution.
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:57 AM   #20592
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Any suggestions for a replacement for the Savox ?
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Old 03-03-2014, 10:01 AM   #20593
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I think you need to look at the gearbox/drive system again. Something may be causing a drag resulting in hot motor and ESC. Just a guess.

Good luck.
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Old 03-03-2014, 10:07 AM   #20594
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Any suggestions for a replacement for the Savox ?
I recommend replacing the spektrum...

Look at the airtronics Mt4, futaba 4pl, etc.
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Old 03-03-2014, 10:12 AM   #20595
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Wouldn't it be a lot easier to get rid of the Savox? With one of the upgrade receivers, Spektrum no glitch, which wasn't mentioned as a problem anyway.
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