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Old 02-22-2014, 11:01 PM   #20536
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I been back tracking in my mind since i had that one crash which stripped my spur gear and unless i hit the boards harder than i thought i don't know. Oh well one for the history records now.
Not really. This is absolutely the most common reason for stripped gears. The spur gear is almost always the culprit, as Sosidge said, it's the weakest link.

Just imagine this. Hold your car up, accelerate to full throttle, then cause your front wheels to come to an sudden stop while under power. Try this a few times and you'll strip a gear. This is exactly the loads your drive train is under when you "bang" the boards.

The reason the Mini veterans don't go thru gears very often is that for one they don't bang the boards that often. The other is that when they make a mistake big enough to take them into a "board", they do it off power.
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Old 02-23-2014, 12:28 AM   #20537
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Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
Moving the rear wheels back (which is how the the wheelbase is lengthened on the M05), with all else being equal, gives better the straight-line acceleration, since front-to-rear weight transfer is reduced and more weight is placed on the front tires. It also promotes understeer, so you may need change springs, sway bars, or tires to compensate.

It will also make the car less twitchy/more stable.

I'm running the JCW coupe on a long-wheelbase M05.
Thanks a lot, which body is best, the Fiat of the Swift, as I think I'm going to go with MWB.
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Old 02-23-2014, 09:45 AM   #20538
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Thanks a lot, which body is best, the Fiat of the Swift, as I think I'm going to go with MWB.
The Swift is the better body. The Fiat just doesn't seem to work as well. Why??? Haven't the foggiest. Haven't seen a Fiat do well at the Tamiya track, anyway. Maybe it might be okay at a carpet or other track with high grip levels. I tried one several years ago and did not like it at all.
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Old 02-24-2014, 04:38 PM   #20539
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Default brushless now?

Ok, I have been a silver can guy for a while. They are pretty consistant a cross the board and only cost 23.00. If you blow one up, no big deal.
Now we are going brushless...
The tuning of motors was the reason I quit racing back in the day. I didn't have a com cutter and couldn't afford one back then. I always thought brushless was supposed to be the simple answer, bolt one in and go. Now I am trying to figure out high rpm, high torque, hybrid motors, adjusting timing...
If some a few of the brushless motor kings here would take the time to explain it to me I would be in your debt forever.
I run in an outdoor parking lot, about 100x50 with typical pvc pipe lane dividers.

I am looking at the following motors, good or bad for a m05
Tekin gen 2.rpm
Trinity killshot rpm
Speedpassion v3
Novak

Thanks, I always get good advice here.
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Old 02-25-2014, 02:43 AM   #20540
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Originally Posted by ncpantherfan View Post
Ok, I have been a silver can guy for a while. They are pretty consistant a cross the board and only cost 23.00. If you blow one up, no big deal.
Now we are going brushless...
The tuning of motors was the reason I quit racing back in the day. I didn't have a com cutter and couldn't afford one back then. I always thought brushless was supposed to be the simple answer, bolt one in and go. Now I am trying to figure out high rpm, high torque, hybrid motors, adjusting timing...
If some a few of the brushless motor kings here would take the time to explain it to me I would be in your debt forever.
I run in an outdoor parking lot, about 100x50 with typical pvc pipe lane dividers.

I am looking at the following motors, good or bad for a m05
Tekin gen 2.rpm
Trinity killshot rpm
Speedpassion v3
Novak

Thanks, I always get good advice here.
Take look at the Hobbywing EZRun 35A/ 13T combo. Works great in a Mini. Just a bit faster than a sivercan, and very smooth to drive.
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Old 02-25-2014, 06:09 AM   #20541
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Take look at the Hobbywing EZRun 35A/ 13T combo. Works great in a Mini. Just a bit faster than a sivercan, and very smooth to drive.
We use TCS rules. I need a 21.5
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Old 02-25-2014, 06:14 AM   #20542
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Novak = bad choice, not enough timing
tekin = I haven't seen one run.
speed passion = decent, but you need the $20 advanced timing senor head. ~$60 Almost as fast as the revtech.
revtech = Fastest one I've seen so far, but they are $90-$100

The turnigy 21.5 is decent for $35...
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Old 02-25-2014, 07:57 AM   #20543
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Originally Posted by ncpantherfan View Post
Speedpassion v3

Thanks, I always get good advice here.
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Originally Posted by whitrzac View Post
Novak = bad choice, not enough timing
tekin = I haven't seen one run.
speed passion = decent, but you need the $20 advanced timing senor head. ~$60 Almost as fast as the revtech.
revtech = Fastest one I've seen so far, but they are $90-$100

The turnigy 21.5 is decent for $35...
I run Speed Passion in all my cars. You mention the V3 which is a good buy on their website right now, 40 bucks. The MMM is the better choice at $60 right now. Speed Passion is funny, the motors are cheap today, tomorrow the MMM might be back to $90. When you see them cheap,buy em.

Whitrzac is right about the timing board, you don't have to buy one but it will up the rpm. The V3 comes stock with the black board the MMM comes with the redish orange board. The green yellow and blue boards will go up 10 degrees each. SP also offers rotors The blue one is rpm the green one is torque, not to mention they have a bunch more. I think people get the motors confused, they look similar. The V3 has V3 stamped on the front, the MMM has 3.0 with the MMM logo in the background.

In my F1 I run a MMM 21.5 box stock and am very happy with it. I have not raced mini that often, club rules are blinky 17.5. I run a MMM with a blue rotor. The mini runs good but could benefit from some more timing.

A lot of ways to tune an SP motor or confuse you depending how you look at it. I think the revtech and killshots are good motors, I also think there is a bit of hype to them. I race 17.5 offroad with stock MMM's and do pretty well against them. Get all the motor you want, still have to drive it.
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:05 AM   #20544
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The SP v3 motors are decent performers (have a couple myself) but the timing adjustment and connector system are a pain and I would avoid them for that reason. Plenty of motors on the market that are a lot easier to live with.
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Old 02-25-2014, 09:31 AM   #20545
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Rimracker,
When and why would you go from a rpm to a torque rotor?
What does advancing the timing do for performance?
Wouldn't a rpm work best in a m05 decause we have limited gear choices?

Is there somewhere this is all explained in simple terms?
All I did was bolt my tekin 17.5 rpm in my 417 and go. I am way behind the the knowledge curve on tuning brushless motors.
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Old 02-25-2014, 09:45 AM   #20546
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Originally Posted by ncpantherfan View Post
Ok, I have been a silver can guy for a while. They are pretty consistant a cross the board and only cost 23.00.
Off topic question: Who was charging $23 for a silver can? Even in Canada, where we traditionally get ripped off on exchange rate and retail parity, that would've been silly.
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Old 02-25-2014, 10:34 AM   #20547
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Probably not much help but I'm currently running a Hacker 21.5 in my M03 with a Tekin RS ESC just because I had them. It is motor timed and boosted and runs well. Just club racing with no Tamiya rules. Take the boost and motor timing out and a good Silver Can can keep up. Had a timed and boosted 17.5 Orion in it for a while and it screamed.

I run it on a large asphalt road course and the local guru says go for torque on motor choice.
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Old 02-25-2014, 10:57 AM   #20548
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Originally Posted by ncpantherfan View Post
Rimracker,
When and why would you go from a rpm to a torque rotor?
What does advancing the timing do for performance?
Wouldn't a rpm work best in a m05 decause we have limited gear choices?

Is there somewhere this is all explained in simple terms?
All I did was bolt my tekin 17.5 rpm in my 417 and go. I am way behind the the knowledge curve on tuning brushless motors.
I know you addressed your question to Rimracker, but hope you don't mind if I attempt to shed some light on your confusion. Like you I'm a Silvercan guy, but had to learn a lot in a short time re B/l motors.

First advancing timing seems to roughly work the same way as in a brushed motor. Advancing the timing gives you more rpm at the expense of more heat. Go too far and you can fry a motor even in a Mini. And yes, you're looking for max rpm and for the most part ignore torque, because of the fixed gearing.

Generally speaking, smaller diameter and lower magnetism rotors have higher rpms. So when you evaluate which "tuning" rotor, you would chose a smaller diameter rotor or a shorter one. Of course this gets complicated cause some makers offer several different strength or magnetism in their rotors.

Apparently, the stator has something to do with performance, but my knowledge doesn't extend into that area.

The other thing that gets confusing is that one manufacturers 0 mark may be different different from another's. Thus, just because you can advance the timing on a Reedy to 50 degrees, doesn't mean you can do that to a Speed Passion. I suspect that if all motors had the same 0 point, there wouldn't be the difference in performance that we're seeing now. I'm sure there would be because of stator designs, but, perhaps not so large.

Tried to describe in simple terms. Hope this was of some value to you.
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Old 02-25-2014, 03:47 PM   #20549
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^^ Good Stuff Granpa^^


Quote:
Originally Posted by ncpantherfan View Post
Rimracker,
When and why would you go from a rpm to a torque rotor?
What does advancing the timing do for performance?
Wouldn't a rpm work best in a m05 decause we have limited gear choices?

Is there somewhere this is all explained in simple terms?
All I did was bolt my tekin 17.5 rpm in my 417 and go. I am way behind the the knowledge curve on tuning brushless motors.
You can buy an SP motor and just bolt it in as well. In a "fixed gear" car tuning can become a little more important. Just trying to say you have plenty of options. I am sure other motors out there offer options as well.
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Old 02-25-2014, 06:54 PM   #20550
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23 is for the Johnson silver can as per tcs rules, that is about average. Is there a much cheaper source I didn't know about?


How do you know what parts to swap out on bl motors? Is it just buying a bunch of parts and trial and error?
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