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Old 02-05-2014, 05:42 PM   #20386
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Unless I'm missing something the 21.5 killshot would not be legal for TCS at this time because its not listed as Approved on the ROAR site? (all I could find was the 17.5 killshot)

Correct me if I'm wrong?
http://roarracing.org/4rmb/showthrea...hot-R-REV1603R
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Old 02-05-2014, 06:00 PM   #20387
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need help with my m05. i bought a TA03 ball diff and installed it but i noticed that whenever i'd run the m05 and turn the steering to the right, the dogbone would look like it would be coming off. did i install it wrong? do i need to buy extra parts for it?
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Old 02-05-2014, 06:02 PM   #20388
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Thanks for the info.

Some clarification with TCS is needed, at this time they are using the published list on ROARRacing.com, not the updated ROAR forums list at ROARRacing.org that shows the more recent approvals.
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Old 02-05-2014, 07:21 PM   #20389
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Post your question on the Tamiya thread in the Racing Forum. Fred is pretty good about answering this kind of inquiry.
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Old 02-05-2014, 07:23 PM   #20390
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Post your question on the Tamiya thread in the Racing Forum. Fred is pretty good about answering this kind of inquiry.
I sent FMW an email to let him know.
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Old 02-05-2014, 07:44 PM   #20391
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Originally Posted by silverbmr View Post
need help with my m05. i bought a TA03 ball diff and installed it but i noticed that whenever i'd run the m05 and turn the steering to the right, the dogbone would look like it would be coming off. did i install it wrong? do i need to buy extra parts for it?
Sounds like you made the same mistakes as we did
You need to get the Universal Drive Shafts and make sure that the little foam
inserts that come with them are installed
or you can just use some rubber (silicone) O rings and put them inside
the cups. Whats happening is the dog bonez are popping out when
you turn the drivers wheel one way or another
Bet you're hearing a chatter too!!!
Good Luck, Let us know how you make out
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Old 02-05-2014, 08:58 PM   #20392
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Cool

Another one bites the brushless.
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Tamiya mini cooper-photo-1.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-photo-2.jpg  
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Old 02-05-2014, 09:14 PM   #20393
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Originally Posted by projectX View Post
Another one bites the brushless.
Nice looking M05!

BTW thanks for the photos, showed me how you are using the Protek battery with bullet connectors. My M05 is TCS ready for the most part. Not the fastest out there but it'll get there with a few adjustments.
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Old 02-05-2014, 10:01 PM   #20394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KA2AEV View Post
Sounds like you made the same mistakes as we did
You need to get the Universal Drive Shafts and make sure that the little foam
inserts that come with them are installed
or you can just use some rubber (silicone) O rings and put them inside
the cups. Whats happening is the dog bonez are popping out when
you turn the drivers wheel one way or another
Bet you're hearing a chatter too!!!
Good Luck, Let us know how you make out
wow thanks for the reply. i did some searching and i read i should use M03 steel dogbones part #53597? are those the same?
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Old 02-05-2014, 11:00 PM   #20395
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Wanted to post some pics of my M03 restoration.
Got it from a race mate donated, who wanted to scrap it because of an cracked chassis. Getting now my fun runner, as the M03 was the only M-chassis I didnīt have. Yesterday the body arrived, but I noticed a very short wheelbase with TL01 2° toe in in rear. So I did fix this with spacers. Otherwise I reused some CVAīs and overhault them. Biggest invest was the M05 Spec-R-geardiff I built in. Needed some mods to the chassis and diff to get it in. Canīt wait to try it. Paint job will be a period like "Jägermeister" theme with b/w roof.
Hope you like it!
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Tamiya mini cooper-m037.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-m034.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-m031.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-m033.jpg  
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Old 02-05-2014, 11:27 PM   #20396
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Restoration? M03 is still my number one go to machine, though I'm loving my 04 right now. Looks good in any case.

How in the world did you fit that diff into the chassis? I looked at the idea once, but taking out enough material to fit 15mm bearings seemed sketchy. Pics?
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Old 02-05-2014, 11:44 PM   #20397
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Restoration? M03 is still my number one go to machine, though I'm loving my 04 right now. Looks good in any case.

How in the world did you fit that diff into the chassis? I looked at the idea once, but taking out enough material to fit 15mm bearings seemed sketchy. Pics?
Hi Monkey, yes, itīs a Resto!

I called it the 1280 trick that brings that diff in.
I made a "How to" in my Tamiya Club section for everyone interested:

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_m...21229&id=34024

My favorite chassis at the moment is the M06, there can be no doubt about it (for me). But you need every M!
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Old 02-06-2014, 12:02 AM   #20398
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I heard the M06 can be a pain to get right handling wise. I've heard some stories. That doesn't scare me though, I plan on buying a used M06 in a few weeks for $50 without electronics. Sounds like a challenge but at the same time once they are setup they are faster then a M05. Last hurricane event top 5 were all M06.

Looking forward to making a deal soon.
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Old 02-06-2014, 12:23 AM   #20399
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Hi Monkey, yes, itīs a Resto!

I called it the 1280 trick that brings that diff in.
I made a "How to" in my Tamiya Club section for everyone interested:

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_m...21229&id=34024

My favorite chassis at the moment is the M06, there can be no doubt about it (for me). But you need every M!
That is smart! Good thing there's enough meat on that diff to make it work. I'd never have thought of that. If we ever race, I'm letting you win.
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Old 02-06-2014, 10:11 AM   #20400
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That is smart! Good thing there's enough meat on that diff to make it work. I'd never have thought of that. If we ever race, I'm letting you win.
Thanks monkey for the offer, maybe it helps me one day to win, if you let me pass!
I finally came to the same conclusion. The Spec-R-Diff was perfect for my purpose (instead of the 3Racing design), as it was quite symmetric and smart with stable closure design. With the 4mm outdrives, there was enough material for turn down to 8mm, and it was to clamp in the lathe as one piece. Also the closing screws are just right located. You have to remember the fact, that the 1280 bearings have to be assembled before the outdrive, and still be able to close the gear diff and be able to tighten the screws with the bearing on.

Besides this M03 hopup, the method can be transferred to many Tamiya models using this diff, as the gear box only looses 1mm material in the bearing diameter, which is usually not a problem for the durability of the gear halfs

Br,
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