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Old 12-30-2013, 08:03 AM   #20101
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Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
You can use this on engines and motors:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEMG5&P=ML
Identical to what myself and others here locally use as well.

Jason
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Old 12-30-2013, 08:22 AM   #20102
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Radio shack has a similar unit. It's called an IR Thermometer. I bought mine over 5 years ago, so can't swear that it's still something they stock.
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Old 12-30-2013, 08:49 AM   #20103
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When I ran on wooden floor I used the Schumacher minipin tyres on TC sized wheels. That causes some issues in getting a body that fits and obviously you have a pretty big ride-height, but you also have grip.

I've hear of people cutting-and-shutting TC tyres to make them fit a mini wheel (cut a section of the tread out and superglue back together). Never tried it myself though.
This is an old trick we used when the 55m tires were not readily available. The Sorex tire was the favorite. How good the tire was ultimately, depended on how good the TC tire was.

Wish I could remember how long to cut them, but we used to change lengths a few mm to alter the characteristics. Just take a 55 mm tires one piece insert, not the foam ones but the molded ones, and use that as a guide to use for length. Cuts are made with a sharp razor blade cause the edges have to fit very closely. Use thin cyano to glue the edges.

It's not as hard to do as it sounds and can give you a terrific tire. Also, it let me use up the old TC tires. I stopped doing this cause some of the commercially available 55mm tires were almost as good.
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Old 12-30-2013, 09:12 AM   #20104
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Thanks Guys for the info!
Happy New Year All!
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Old 12-30-2013, 09:49 AM   #20105
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Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
Put the steering upgrade on your list if you want to race. Car won't go straight otherwise. The essential parts are the aluminium steering posts and the high-torque servo saver. Keep the budget for a diff aside too, some people manage to do a lot by tweaking the standard diff but it wasn't built to be tweaked, the easiest diff to live with if you must use Tamiya is the TA03 Ball diff, but the 3Racing gear diff is faster.
Oh i forgot to add the steering that in my last post but it shall be done.
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Old 12-30-2013, 12:03 PM   #20106
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Hey Guys

I'm looking for a Tamiya Rear hub/upright which has 1 or 1,5 degree toe-in and is made from plastic. I know there are aluminium versions availeble but I'm wondering if an older tamiya or something has a plastic 1degree hub.
My M03 has a 2degree hub right now, but I find the rear end to much planted. I've tried a lot allready and was wondering if there is a 1 degree hub.

thanks in advance,

Regards Robert
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Old 12-30-2013, 01:10 PM   #20107
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Hi Robert, I've never seen anything but 0 or 2 degree rear hubs in plastic. Is there a reason you won't consider aluminum? If you're running an M05, you could try one of the optional lower rear suspension mounts with 0 degree plastic uprights.
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Old 12-30-2013, 01:32 PM   #20108
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Hi Robert, I've never seen anything but 0 or 2 degree rear hubs in plastic. Is there a reason you won't consider aluminum? If you're running an M05, you could try one of the optional lower rear suspension mounts with 0 degree plastic uprights.
Hey Monkeyracing

I've an M03, forgot to say that. Well I don't like aluminium for it's price and the fact that it will bend during a crash.

Thanks in advance

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Old 12-30-2013, 02:54 PM   #20109
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No problem, but Tamiya aluminum won't bend in a crash like aftermarket aluminum. It's worth the investment for the uprights, front and rear.
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Old 12-30-2013, 03:03 PM   #20110
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Hey Monkeyracing

I've an M03, forgot to say that. Well I don't like aluminium for it's price and the fact that it will bend during a crash.

Thanks in advance

Regards Robert
From personal experience, the Tamiya ones don't seem to. I hold every crash record at the Tamiya USA track. The altitude and distance records are mine as well as the number of rolls, both vertical and lateral. I do believe tho that David Bird has me on style points. Besides,we're talking rear hubs here, so you generally don't hit much with the rear of the car.

Some of the early # Racing stuff used to bend easily, but that was the "blingy" blue suspension arms they made.
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Old 12-30-2013, 05:39 PM   #20111
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Ran my m05 again this weekend thought i'd add to my posts earlier on carpet i swapped out to blue springs from yellow and it loosened up the car a bit bu it still didn't want to rotate so i added 1/2 oz of weight in the front bumper to try and add front tractions again this helped with acceleration traction but again still no rotation as a last ditch effort i ca glued the edges of my rear tires to go with my fronts this made all the difference rear end unlocked alot and it finally started to rotate in the corners however under power it is still pushing but alot more managable in the end i gained about 6-7 seconds overall in a 5 min heat over the weekend. Next up is adjustable camber links play with the toe settings a bit and if all else fails get a gear diff. Cheers if you have any other suggestions let me know. Thanks
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Old 12-31-2013, 09:14 AM   #20112
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Robert I have to agree with The Monkey and Granpa. The aluminum ones they're making these days are a lot better than the old style. Plus theydo hold up better than the plastic does. My driver is right behind Granpa in crashing points and style altho he is getting better! I would invest in the aluminum its really worth it in the long run
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Old 12-31-2013, 09:14 AM   #20113
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Dupe post
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Old 12-31-2013, 04:36 PM   #20114
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Heya, have any of you tried the Blitz RS1 shell? I'm looking for a low profile, mwb option now that HPI has discontinued the MX5.

Also, HAPPY NEW YEAR!
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Old 12-31-2013, 05:42 PM   #20115
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Happy new year guys
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