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Old 11-27-2013, 11:42 AM   #19921
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Nope, stock gears everywhere.
Soldering skills are fine. No cold joints. The buds car it's his solder job but the same concept.
The ESC has 2 protection modes, overheat and overcurrent. I am ruling out overheat cuz its really cold and overcurrent is left to see.
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Old 11-27-2013, 01:02 PM   #19922
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Stop trying to make these cheapo ESC's do what they can't do , and get a ”no limit” serious brushed ESC !!! Wow!!!
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Old 11-27-2013, 01:04 PM   #19923
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Stop trying to make these cheapo ESC's do what they can't do , and get a ”no limit” serious brushed ESC !!! Wow!!!
Any recomendations?
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Old 11-27-2013, 01:11 PM   #19924
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Lrp v7.1 , old Novak Gtb ,Gtx, etc..., Tekin RS pro, RS, FX pro, etc..., Duratrax 8T esc, Lrp Qc2/Qc3, if you can find them......

Last edited by bertrandsv87; 11-27-2013 at 03:29 PM.
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Old 11-27-2013, 09:37 PM   #19925
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Basically anything Novak. My Novak Cyclone can handle up to 10 cells, but would need an LVC for a LiPo. It's a tank of an ESC though as long as you don't need reverse. A Futaba MC210CB is what I have running in the other chassis I take care of, and it makes the standard Tamiya Silver Can fly (and has reverse) But both of those are older than LiPo, so you'll need an LVC.
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Old 11-28-2013, 08:13 PM   #19926
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Quote:
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Any recomendations?
Ignore that guy for one.
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Old 11-28-2013, 09:55 PM   #19927
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Ignore that guy for one.
That's the best thing I've read all week! +1M
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Old 11-28-2013, 10:00 PM   #19928
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Beware of the haters on Rctech.... They come in packs of ”partners in life” congratulating each other all the time, if you know what I mean...lol... Happy racing....
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Old 11-28-2013, 10:05 PM   #19929
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Not really, you just spew out a lot of BS. Makes the new guys more confused.
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Old 11-28-2013, 10:21 PM   #19930
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Here we go, another member of the ”partners in...” ! It never fails. They follow folks on here, harrassing them forever.... Keep it up guys.... Bravo...
Moving on, I run my mini with an old Lrp v7.1 no limit esc , and I never worry about overloading the esc. I just time my runs so the lipo won't get down too far, and my motor won't fry... I get well over six minutes solid runtime, and put back about 1200mah in the tp3200 lipo pack to recharge it...... Just helping the newbies not the partners....
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Old 11-28-2013, 11:12 PM   #19931
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I used to race a lot of oval at the very end of the brushed days. I still have my Turbo30 that I used to break in stock motors back in the 27 wind Epic days. I remember with the super soft Orion F brush would pull 8.0-10+ amps at 1 volt. After breaking in the six new Johnson motors I had lying around, the very best one is 1.3 amps at 1v.

Why does this little motor need a big amp speed control?

My current favorite is this one - it's small, light, dependable, and $20.

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/LRP80810/
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Old 11-28-2013, 11:43 PM   #19932
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That micro esc use to cost $149.99, while my lrp v7.1 use to go for $120... Now brushed no limit esc's are also reasonably cheap ($40-$60), but they can run any motor out there, not just mini. I go for big amp ratings for peace of mind, and not having to buy an esc twice if I need to put that esc in another car... I still own many cars with mod brushed motors in them.
The esc is an investment , and the more it can do, the better... If it also can run brushless, then go for it : tekins, Novak gtb/kinetic, etc...,that are a bargain.....just sayin...

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Old 11-29-2013, 03:16 AM   #19933
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I've just fitted my -1 degree front upper arms to my M05. I have taken a shot of it next to my stock M03 for comparison.

I hope I notice some difference when I test it!
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Old 11-29-2013, 02:49 PM   #19934
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I've just fitted my -1 degree front upper arms to my M05. I have taken a shot of it next to my stock M03 for comparison.

I hope I notice some difference when I test it!
cool... got them for mine and i'm curious to see how they work

mine's in the middle of a complete re-build
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Old 11-29-2013, 09:14 PM   #19935
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Default A new setup to test

I have just begun testing the new shorter front linkage, with the MO6 hinge pins and cf rear shock tower. We are also experimenting with the Ride inch ups as a control tyre for future events.
With this combination I have found you need to run softer oil and softer springs. On a short tight track, I found I had issues with understeer unless I got off the throttle, which made my car slower.I am looking at trying some other things to see if I can rectify this.
So far I have shortened the steering link, so it has no spacer, softened the front oil to 30 weight and red trf short spring, rear same oil but fluro blue spring. I am running 6mm axle hubs, but might try thinner up front. I am running two degree rear hubs, which I will change to 1 degree to see if it improves the steering. Ride height is low with the front lower than the rear. I am also using the JCW coupe body. I did increase the length of the shocks so the car would sit properly.
As I say a work in progress.
Any advice will be taken on board for possible testing. I have the new gold edition bottom toe in block, so you can run 2.5 degrees rear toe.

Thanks,
Calvin.
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Tamiya mini cooper-20131128_183519.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-20131128_183551.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-20131128_183714.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-20131128_183613.jpg  

Last edited by caltek1; 11-29-2013 at 09:27 PM.
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