288LikesTamiya mini cooper
11-07-2013, 01:47 AM
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
There actually isn't clearance to the upper deck Dan. We spaced it up a couple of mm because we didnt have time to do it any other way.
There'll be a way around it but we haven't gone back to it since.
There'll be a way around it but we haven't gone back to it since.
11-07-2013, 08:04 AM
I have a Mini Cooper for sale, minus body. (You'd want your own paint job anyway). Comes with sweeps, stock tires, tamiya shocks and all springs, plus other parts like the better motor, stock motor, servo, esc, spec r gear diff, two higher speed headsets with opinions (never used), carbon shock tower, upgraded bumper, and other stuff I'm sure I am missing. Pm me please.
11-07-2013, 11:08 AM
My experience with the Abarth is on a relatively large outdoors track. I would like to try it on a tight carpet track one day cause the bodies characteristics seem to be more favorable these conditions.
The Abarth is very difficult to find a balance with and can change from corner to corner. Also stuff can happen quickly. Basically, it's damned "twitchy". The Swift doesn't have any "nasty" characteristics. Also the little wing on it can be removed without much if any change in the handling. I always use it, but some of the Mini Mafia here do without it.
The CRX seems to fall between these two bodies. I borrowed one, ran a few laps with it, and promptly returned it. Just did not like it. Locally, the "faster" guys liked it more than the slower guys like me did. What's interesting is that when it really mattered, everyone with a MWB, used a Swift.
The Abarth is very difficult to find a balance with and can change from corner to corner. Also stuff can happen quickly. Basically, it's damned "twitchy". The Swift doesn't have any "nasty" characteristics. Also the little wing on it can be removed without much if any change in the handling. I always use it, but some of the Mini Mafia here do without it.
The CRX seems to fall between these two bodies. I borrowed one, ran a few laps with it, and promptly returned it. Just did not like it. Locally, the "faster" guys liked it more than the slower guys like me did. What's interesting is that when it really mattered, everyone with a MWB, used a Swift.
11-07-2013, 01:41 PM
One of our Alberta racers is putting together a documentary series on RC racing in western Canada. It's not focused on minis, but the featured guys are incredible drivers and the quality of the video is amazing. Here's the trailer...
11-07-2013, 03:05 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (18)
M05 front camber links
Hey Bozo,
It’s been awhile, hope all is well.
As you know, the new links help provide more or less front end grip depending which one you use and at what upper arm position. I personally like the shorter ones has it helped my M05 corner quicker. With the extra -1 of camber in the front I believe will help make this car more competitive against the 03 at Tamiya. Ok, I know that’s a big statement. Tamiya should have come out with this much sooner. I think Tamiya USA as them in now, try'em I think you like them too.
B.
It’s been awhile, hope all is well.
As you know, the new links help provide more or less front end grip depending which one you use and at what upper arm position. I personally like the shorter ones has it helped my M05 corner quicker. With the extra -1 of camber in the front I believe will help make this car more competitive against the 03 at Tamiya. Ok, I know that’s a big statement. Tamiya should have come out with this much sooner. I think Tamiya USA as them in now, try'em I think you like them too.
B.
11-07-2013, 08:05 PM
MO5 Camber Links
Thanks Bensi,
I'll try a set of the shorter arms this Saturday. Best of luck later this month. We expect stories when you return...
Bozo
I'll try a set of the shorter arms this Saturday. Best of luck later this month. We expect stories when you return...
Bozo
11-08-2013, 02:15 PM
I've been trying to wrap my head around the camber change afforded by the new upper link set. I've been using a very informative app called "RC Car Setup Workbench" which does a fair job of explaining how this stuff works.
The difference between the new parts and stock is +/- 0.5mm. That makes the change fairly minimal, but noticeable. You can also change caster very slightly by using the lower inner link mount. As I understand it, this will also increase camber gain, and lower roll center. (I promised myself I'd never discuss roll center. Seems my inner nerd has won.)
How does one or the other of these options change camber gain? It seems they both do, but with the lower mounting point, I'd assume more gain. What does this do to the car upon entering a corner, for example?
The difference between the new parts and stock is +/- 0.5mm. That makes the change fairly minimal, but noticeable. You can also change caster very slightly by using the lower inner link mount. As I understand it, this will also increase camber gain, and lower roll center. (I promised myself I'd never discuss roll center. Seems my inner nerd has won.)
How does one or the other of these options change camber gain? It seems they both do, but with the lower mounting point, I'd assume more gain. What does this do to the car upon entering a corner, for example?
11-09-2013, 04:16 AM
Tech Adept
Hi all,
I'm looking at the wishbone pins held in place with the C clips. My concern is the C clips might 'ping' off during a shunt.
Does anyone have experience with these? What would be the benefit if any over the screws? And can you get full titanium ones?
Cheers all!
Oh, my M05 is on point on carpet now, it's only taken 5 months to make it feel like my M03
If anyone's interested, here's my set up:
My car is using a Mabuchi motor with a 20t (fluoride) pinion. I'm running 60d M grips all around, blue springs up front with 450cst oil, yellow springs rear with 350cst oil, 5mm clearance front and back, 2mm spacers in between steering arms which are set in the rear holes on the hubs and 3 Racing steering mech, 1.5 rear hubs with 2mm spacer in between adjustable upper rear arms (so minimal camber) my car does have the Tamiya hop up wide shock hangers and I'm using the outer holes front and rear, my rear only sway bar is disconnected, front shocks are 56mm and rears are 57mm, I've put my speed control in the centre of the car which required dremelling out so it would fit flush on the chassis, the rx is mounted on the opposite side of the motor, and my car is neutral when lifted off the ground in the center (so it no longer tips over to the motor side) I have the 3Racing gear diff with 5k oil which works well. I've given the servo -50% on the exponential too which helped a lot. I've also found that using spacers under the battery 'wings' to push the battery down to the bottom of the chassis helped a lot too. I've also shimmed out the slop on my wide alloy hexes.
Sorry, my set up is typed as I remembered stuff in my head!
I'm looking at the wishbone pins held in place with the C clips. My concern is the C clips might 'ping' off during a shunt.
Does anyone have experience with these? What would be the benefit if any over the screws? And can you get full titanium ones?
Cheers all!
Oh, my M05 is on point on carpet now, it's only taken 5 months to make it feel like my M03
If anyone's interested, here's my set up:
My car is using a Mabuchi motor with a 20t (fluoride) pinion. I'm running 60d M grips all around, blue springs up front with 450cst oil, yellow springs rear with 350cst oil, 5mm clearance front and back, 2mm spacers in between steering arms which are set in the rear holes on the hubs and 3 Racing steering mech, 1.5 rear hubs with 2mm spacer in between adjustable upper rear arms (so minimal camber) my car does have the Tamiya hop up wide shock hangers and I'm using the outer holes front and rear, my rear only sway bar is disconnected, front shocks are 56mm and rears are 57mm, I've put my speed control in the centre of the car which required dremelling out so it would fit flush on the chassis, the rx is mounted on the opposite side of the motor, and my car is neutral when lifted off the ground in the center (so it no longer tips over to the motor side) I have the 3Racing gear diff with 5k oil which works well. I've given the servo -50% on the exponential too which helped a lot. I've also found that using spacers under the battery 'wings' to push the battery down to the bottom of the chassis helped a lot too. I've also shimmed out the slop on my wide alloy hexes.
Sorry, my set up is typed as I remembered stuff in my head!
11-09-2013, 05:27 AM
One of our Alberta racers is putting together a documentary series on RC racing in western Canada. It's not focused on minis, but the featured guys are incredible drivers and the quality of the video is amazing. Here's the trailer...
11-10-2013, 06:19 AM
One of our Alberta racers is putting together a documentary series on RC racing in western Canada. It's not focused on minis, but the featured guys are incredible drivers and the quality of the video is amazing. Here's the trailer...
11-10-2013, 09:28 AM
I've been trying to wrap my head around the camber change afforded by the new upper link set. I've been using a very informative app called "RC Car Setup Workbench" which does a fair job of explaining how this stuff works.
The difference between the new parts and stock is +/- 0.5mm. That makes the change fairly minimal, but noticeable. You can also change caster very slightly by using the lower inner link mount. As I understand it, this will also increase camber gain, and lower roll center. (I promised myself I'd never discuss roll center. Seems my inner nerd has won.)
How does one or the other of these options change camber gain? It seems they both do, but with the lower mounting point, I'd assume more gain. What does this do to the car upon entering a corner, for example?
The difference between the new parts and stock is +/- 0.5mm. That makes the change fairly minimal, but noticeable. You can also change caster very slightly by using the lower inner link mount. As I understand it, this will also increase camber gain, and lower roll center. (I promised myself I'd never discuss roll center. Seems my inner nerd has won.)
How does one or the other of these options change camber gain? It seems they both do, but with the lower mounting point, I'd assume more gain. What does this do to the car upon entering a corner, for example?
Whether this is a good thing or not is that it sorta depends. There are just too many variables to give any kind of definitive answer. For example, if you assume camber gain is a positive thing, when does it become a negative???? Sorta depends right?????
11-10-2013, 10:20 PM
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
So I finally got some free time to fit my Touring Car rally tires to my M03 chassis to see how it will work and handle. Had to trim away some of the front of the body to keep the wheels from rubbing while turning (not that big of a deal, but whatever. The body was starting to crack anyways)
It looks a little odd with the body mounted as high as it is, but it should hopefully help it keep up with my HPI Mini Trophy Truck that is coming in. It now has some actual ground clearance.
Here's some pictures:
http://i.imgur.com/B3MhLZV.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/5Fi5o6K.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/hcCBeIn.jpg
Just have to toss on my aluminum skid plate that I'm working on and it should be all set for fall\winter rally locally. Can't wait! My roommate might be helping me balance the chassis too so that it'll be able to jump a bit better, but that's just a thought right now without much planning going into it.
It looks a little odd with the body mounted as high as it is, but it should hopefully help it keep up with my HPI Mini Trophy Truck that is coming in. It now has some actual ground clearance.
Here's some pictures:
http://i.imgur.com/B3MhLZV.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/5Fi5o6K.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/hcCBeIn.jpg
Just have to toss on my aluminum skid plate that I'm working on and it should be all set for fall\winter rally locally. Can't wait! My roommate might be helping me balance the chassis too so that it'll be able to jump a bit better, but that's just a thought right now without much planning going into it.
11-14-2013, 09:30 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (18)
Greetings from Japan
Hey guys,
Going to the track for practice today. We get (3) 3 minute practice sections, hopefully my base setup is close. I will try to provide updates and pics throughout the weekend. It's 2:30am here and can't sleep.
BTW, went to the Tamiya headquarters yesterday, the place was awesome.
Good night hopefully,
Bensi
Going to the track for practice today. We get (3) 3 minute practice sections, hopefully my base setup is close. I will try to provide updates and pics throughout the weekend. It's 2:30am here and can't sleep.
BTW, went to the Tamiya headquarters yesterday, the place was awesome.
Good night hopefully,
Bensi
Last edited by back9monsta; 11-14-2013 at 11:34 AM.
11-14-2013, 10:03 AM
Congratulations back9monsta!
Best of luck to you!
Best of luck to you!
11-14-2013, 10:18 AM
Good luck, Bensi. Show em how it's done!
I'm insanely jealous that you (or anyone else) got to visit Tamiya HQ.
I'm insanely jealous that you (or anyone else) got to visit Tamiya HQ.