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Old 10-07-2013, 05:14 AM   #19651
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Two cars bombing down the back straight, one with loads of camber, the other with almost none, how will the top speed of either be influenced?

I've got some ideas. Just looking for perspective.
I'd guess that the camber will cause some scrubbing, giving a slightly slower top end, but probably not enough to notice. If the tires bulge (larger circumference at the center of the tread than at the edge), then the difference will be greater.

Okay, that's my 2 cents. Now let's hear those ideas!
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Old 10-07-2013, 01:04 PM   #19652
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There's something to build on, I think. With the large camber angle and some toe in, the tires (rears specifically) might scrub a little at the inside leading edge. Oddly, my rear tire wear is extremely low. I've got rears from sept, 2011 that are still usable. They've swollen into odd ballooned shapes, but tread wear is quite even.

So, here's a question about fronts: mine tend to become vaguely cone shaped when they wear down. So, the inside of the tire has a smaller diameter than the outside edge. Given that they're rotating at the same speed, will the tire be fighting with itself as the outer edge wants to cover more distance per rotation. EG: roll a cone and it will always turn towards its small end.
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Old 10-07-2013, 01:26 PM   #19653
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So, here's a question about fronts: mine tend to become vaguely cone shaped when they wear down. So, the inside of the tire has a smaller diameter than the outside edge. Given that they're rotating at the same speed, will the tire be fighting with itself as the outer edge wants to cover more distance per rotation. EG: roll a cone and it will always turn towards its small end.
Noob here, but can't you just unmount the tire once it begins "cone-ing" and re-mount it backwards so that the unconed part is on the inside, allowing you to get twice the life out of "coned" tires? Or does that make the tire act funny?
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Old 10-07-2013, 02:45 PM   #19654
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The tire starts doing some funny things, and from my experience with re-mounting tires that were glued with CA, they don't mount quite right afterwards. Usually because you end up cutting portions of the bead when trying to de-bond the tire from the old rim.

......Then again I could be doing it wrong.
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Old 10-07-2013, 04:27 PM   #19655
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
So, here's a question about fronts: mine tend to become vaguely cone shaped when they wear down. So, the inside of the tire has a smaller diameter than the outside edge. Given that they're rotating at the same speed, will the tire be fighting with itself as the outer edge wants to cover more distance per rotation. EG: roll a cone and it will always turn towards its small end.
Yes, but the drag from the scrubbing will be small. I think toe is going to affect the top end more than that.

I played with small amounts of intentional coning on the wide rear (foam) tires of my oval car (sort of like stagger, but for each tire) to reduce scrubbing since the car is spending a large part of its time turning left, but even then I couldn't show that it made a difference.
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Old 10-07-2013, 04:29 PM   #19656
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Noob here, but can't you just unmount the tire once it begins "cone-ing" and re-mount it backwards so that the unconed part is on the inside, allowing you to get twice the life out of "coned" tires? Or does that make the tire act funny?
It sounds like you have raced Formula Vee!
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Old 10-07-2013, 04:34 PM   #19657
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It sounds like you have raced Formula Vee!
I race "Why the hell is a Mini on the dirt track" mostly. RC18T tires fit M wheels, and I re-glue them when the insides wear out. I'm tempted to just get some standard 1:10 Rally tires and toss them on my M Chassis to get some extra ride height and make snowrally easier on it. Either that or building an undertray out of thin lexan that turns it basically into a sled.
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Old 10-08-2013, 04:47 PM   #19658
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Anyone have the manual for this kit?
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Old 10-08-2013, 11:07 PM   #19659
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The greater static camber you run, the less forward traction you have. Sooo the car running closer to zero camber should accelerate faster BUT were talking silvercan and minis here so the difference is akin to running steel wheel nuts vs aluminum nuts. Tell me you can feel a difference...
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Theoretically, yes. But taking tire wear out of the equation, what does it do? EG: Two cars bombing down the back straight, one with loads of camber, the other with almost none, how will the top speed of either be influenced?

I've got some ideas. Just looking for perspective.



For the TA03, no. For the 3Racing you'll need a couple 10x15x4 bearings.
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Old 10-08-2013, 11:27 PM   #19660
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New problem: Rebuilt the gearing tonight, pulled all the grease that had been packed in there from the previous owner.

Now the car sounds like it has a slipper clutch installed (like when you set an electric drill to a low setting and try driving a screw) but only when driving in a straight line. If I drive with even a slight turn, everything is fine.

My only assumption is that the diff I put in is stripped. Would this be a symptom of a stripped diff?
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Old 10-09-2013, 03:55 AM   #19661
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I race "Why the hell is a Mini on the dirt track" mostly. RC18T tires fit M wheels, and I re-glue them when the insides wear out. I'm tempted to just get some standard 1:10 Rally tires and toss them on my M Chassis to get some extra ride height and make snowrally easier on it. Either that or building an undertray out of thin lexan that turns it basically into a sled.
What do you use to dissolve the glue holding the tire to the rim?
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Old 10-09-2013, 04:30 AM   #19662
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Anyone have the manual for this kit?
http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/manuals.htm
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Old 10-09-2013, 07:07 AM   #19663
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What do you use to dissolve the glue holding the tire to the rim?
I use a few different tricks, depending on how much I want to destroy in the process. If I'm lazy, I just cut them (RC18T tires are a little bigger than the Mini tire, so there's extra tire there to use if you cut it. Not recommended as re-gluing becomes a pain if you're cutting off the rim it's going back on to)

If I have access to my friend's art supplies, I use a combination of acetone (not nail-polish remover, but high-concentration acetone) and paint thinner (usually just more acetone, but that's not always the case) and soak one side of the tire for a few minutes, then start wiggling it until it pops off. Repeat for the other side. you can soak the whole tire, but it'll probably eat the foam inside (not that that matters either, as I've started packing the RC18T tires with bubble wrap, craft foam, or packing peanuts).

If you want to just nuke em off (If the tyres are shot completely with no hopes of getting them back to anything usable) then a soak in gasoline for about half an hour should have em in a condition to be removed from the wheel. (not recommended on painted or dyed wheels. Just plain colors)
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Old 10-09-2013, 07:54 AM   #19664
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Acetone will completely dissolve SOME mini wheels.

With offroad tires, after cooking supper, I'd switch off the oven and put them in the 350*f oven and leave for 30 or 40 minutes. Usually the tires would snap off, and if not sometimes dipping them in cold water would do the job.

CAUTION....tires and wheels will be HOT

CAUTION....the aroma may offend your significant other.
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:06 AM   #19665
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Acetone will completely dissolve SOME mini wheels.

With offroad tires, after cooking supper, I'd switch off the oven and put them in the 350*f oven and leave for 30 or 40 minutes. Usually the tires would snap off, and if not sometimes dipping them in cold water would do the job.

CAUTION....tires and wheels will be HOT

CAUTION....the aroma may offend your significant other.
I would think a small toaster-oven would work.
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