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Old 09-01-2013, 05:34 PM   #19411
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So I guess my question you to all out there. I am currently running 22.5Wt all around the car. Should I go lighter in the front in order to quell the rolling issue? I can post complete setup if it would help. Just need to go look at the car to verify everything.

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Old 09-01-2013, 06:47 PM   #19412
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I found better stuff. Wurth HHS-K. I'm using this stuff on my bikes too now.
Sounds good. Where can it be purchased????

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So I guess my question you to all out there. I am currently running 22.5Wt all around the car. Should I go lighter in the front in order to quell the rolling issue? I can post complete setup if it would help. Just need to go look at the car to verify everything.

Jason
The tire you're using can make a bigger difference than set up changes. Since the track is unfamiliar to me, it's difficult to make specific suggestions. If you were happy with the set up before the body change, there are a few things you could try before making wholesale changes to the car. Unfortunately with set ups, everything works together. It's real easy to dial yourself into a mess.

Try using cyano on the front tires. If you can use any tire, go to a front tire with less grip and cyano those if you need to. Try "deadening" the front end a bit.

I"ve run the Coupe body and like it a lot. It seems to have more steering than the 2006 Cooper S or the old BMW body. Dave Weir swears by them. Ive never had a traction rolling problem with it.
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Old 09-01-2013, 08:13 PM   #19413
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Is this a good deal?

Tamiya 1/10 R/C M-05 S-Spec Chassis Kit
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-1-10-...-/121166989481
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Old 09-01-2013, 09:12 PM   #19414
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Grandpa, There is a chance that my setup before the body change was on the verge of being roll happy but was just settled enough to not roll. To me with the old body it felt like I couldn't make it roll. But now I struggled to keep it from doing so.

I can run any tires at home here at HT Fresno. But am trying to prep, tune, and learn to drive a setup that would work well at TCS next year. I know I say that all the time. I could switch back to Mediums on the front and I am pretty sure that might solve it but I can't run that at TCS. So trying to change what I can to work with the spec tires.

I will try some Cyano and see next weekend if it helps. I had seen that some run lower weight shock oils in front shocks than I am and was wondering if that might be worth trying. I did try last night disconnecting the rear sway bar and although it did help, it didn't help enough.

The body does have TONS of steering compared to the cooper S. The cooper S was what I had last after the crappy Mito one.

How would you deaden the front end? Or is the Cyano how to do it?

Jason
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Old 09-01-2013, 09:18 PM   #19415
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Well had a interesting first real run with the JCW body last night. WOW this thing seems to generate serious traction. I couldn't keep it from rolling over. As the night went on it just got worse and worse. I ended up TQing but placing second in the main as I just couldn't run the car at its full potential. As a side note though my being gentle laps to try and baby it from rolling were real close to my fastest laps with the previous normal style cooper body. If I can get it to stop rolling has real potential to be a good bit faster.

Jason
Hi,
Did you running the body with the included wing? I had the same problem with that body and I guess it's that huge rear wing that's generating too much downforce...
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Old 09-01-2013, 09:54 PM   #19416
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Jason, if you are trying to run the new S-Grips, which is the spec tire for TCS, there is no way to use those w/out using cyano on the front tires. Most of the guys at Tamiya or the Mini Mafia will cyano both the inside and outside of the tires. Some even use cyano on the rear tires also. The key is in how you prep your tires. How much and where you put the cyano.

All of the Mafia guys use a rear roll bar. Front shock oils vary from 40-60 and rear 40-30. There are a lot of different set ups that seem to work, but that's keyed to how you prepped your tires.

There are several ways to deaden or make the front end less reactive. Some of this is counterintuitive so you'll need to take my word for it. The first and easiest adjustment to make is to raise the front ride height in relation to the rear. If the front ride height is much over 5mm, accomplish this by lowering the rear. The second is to run a little more toe out----adjust in 1/4 to 1/2 degree increments. You should never have to use more than 2 degrees tho. The third is to use a softer spring or lighter shock oil----but yours is light to begin with. The fourth is to run a stiffer rear spring. The fifth is a heavier roll bar----most of the Mafia guys have settled on the softer roll bar. Do just the opposite for a quicker responding car.

The above is just my opinion, but it's worked for me in the past. There are others, but those are the main ones. With a lot of trial and error, you'll probably come up with your own set of adjustments.
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Old 09-01-2013, 11:34 PM   #19417
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Guddam, Yes I am in fact but it was the point of this body. So I plan to put it to full use if at all possible.

Grandpa, I should have been more clear in the tire department. I run A's with hard inserts in front with S's with hard insert in rear. Maybe I should try the S's? My choices were based on the thinking that the A's would push more than the S's much like the mediums do being slicks as opposed to treaded. Maybe I was wrong and that has lead to most my issues with the setup?

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Old 09-02-2013, 12:53 AM   #19418
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Guddam, Yes I am in fact but it was the point of this body. So I plan to put it to full use if at all possible.

Grandpa, I should have been more clear in the tire department. I run A's with hard inserts in front with S's with hard insert in rear. Maybe I should try the S's? My choices were based on the thinking that the A's would push more than the S's much like the mediums do being slicks as opposed to treaded. Maybe I was wrong and that has lead to most my issues with the setup?

Jason
The Mini Mafia tried the A fronts and S rears. Consensus seemed to be that it wasn't a bad combo, but too slow. My reaction was that it was scrubbing off way too much corner speed. I'd guess that combo would be about a second per lap down to the S-Grips. The spec tire is the #1016 premount tire which is the S grip tire with the hard foam insert and the 11 spoke rim.

Use those, cyano the bejesus out of the fronts, leave the rears alone. Breaking them in is a bear and will try your patience. Worn tires have more grip than new so they go on the rear. If you're starting out all new, start with a combo of 2 sets of fronts to 1 set of rears and break them in as a set.

As I've suggested before, take the trek down. Fresno was my home town and still make an occasional trip to visit friends and family. It'll be a long day, but you'll learn a lot of stuff tailored to the track you'll probably do your TCS racing on. I've made the trip in my younger days so know that it can be done. Actually seeing stuff is better than reading about it. If you do come bring a selection of springs, a selection of Losi or Tamiya shock oils, and a couple of sets of "scrubbed in" tires. Since there isn't a race for awhile, you should be able to get some help.
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Old 09-02-2013, 07:28 AM   #19419
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Thanx, good tip. I've used it on the tranny before and can't remember why I stopped. I run the tranny gears dry now-----probably due to laziness. May go back and try it again on the next diff rebuild.

While we're passing tips around, this is one for the guys who have the R1Wurks Mini universals. On occasion the pin in the universals can work loose which can really bugger up the steering uprights. They used a 3X3mm set screw to hold the pin. IMO the screw is too short and there isn't enough thread to hold the loctite so the screw will loosen. Use a 3X4 or even a 3X5 if it won't rub and run it in on the opposite side. After doing that, you can replace the 3X3 on the opposite side. So far, I haven't needed to

I can see you guys don't play with trains.
I use graphite powder on gears. As in pure graphite (the stuff in your old wood pencils - kinda). You can find it in railway modelling shops. Be careful where you put your fingers after using it though, you will leave fingerprints for a month afterwards. The powder is extremely fine and creates a smudge on everything it comes in contact with.

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Kadee...-p/kad-231.htm
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Old 09-02-2013, 07:55 AM   #19420
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I can see you guys don't play with trains.
I use graphite powder on gears. As in pure graphite (the stuff in your old wood pencils - kinda). You can find it in railway modelling shops. Be careful where you put your fingers after using it though, you will leave fingerprints for a month afterwards. The powder is extremely fine and creates a smudge on everything it comes in contact with.

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Kadee...-p/kad-231.htm
I think I have read on various threads that people use graphite powder on hinge pins and other suspension parts because it it doesn't attract dirt. I think they use it or have used it in the past on pine wood derby cars. But, I could be wrong at my age.
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Old 09-02-2013, 09:23 AM   #19421
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I think I have read on various threads that people use graphite powder on hinge pins and other suspension parts because it it doesn't attract dirt. I think they use it or have used it in the past on pine wood derby cars. But, I could be wrong at my age.

I wouldn't be surprised. This stuff is indeed old school. I got my first bottle in an old fashion car part shop where they also had engineer's blue and other old timer stuff like that.
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Old 09-02-2013, 10:19 AM   #19422
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Hey now, enough with the old timer stuff. Graphite is still used, except it's available in an aerosol now. It's sold right along side the Teflon and goose grease.
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:43 AM   #19423
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Interesting stuff on how to lubricate the gears. What I'd like to know more about is what is an effective lubricant for the universals. I've started using the DUPONT stuff and it seems to be working well. Someone was suggesting another product, HHS-K which I did a bit of research on and at $25 a can, I was not inspired to try it. When you add tax and shipping we're talking more like $35 to 40. The frugality built into my very core prevents me from trying it on the off chance it's better than what I'm presently using.

Putting stuff on the gears may or may not increase performance. Finding a good lubricant for the universals will not increase performance, but increase their longevity. That, for sure we know, is a positive
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Old 09-03-2013, 03:03 PM   #19424
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I don't know of it's made anymore, but Aero-Car used to make this pink wax lube called "Super Speed Gear Lube". That's what I still use, more just to keep things quiet. Just a super light amount is all that's needed.
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Old 09-03-2013, 04:20 PM   #19425
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Good info on the lubes used by all. Will have to get some graphite for my hinge pins and such as I notice mine get sticky from time to time and do now freely move as much I would like. I had used previously small dabs or applications of Glidex II where needed to free things up but like the fact that graphite won't attract dirt like the Glidex II. I know I am behind the 8 ball in terms of the best stuff to lube and use. But I am trying to get there .

Grandpa, Thanks for the tips and will get to work. I am currently running Black/Red front and Black/Blue rear for springs. Are those the softest of the Tamiya's or are one of the others softer? I also have a set of the black/yellow, white/blue, white/yellow, and florescent red springs. Also the ride height was set at 4.5mm front and 4mm rear. Should I go ahead and raise the front to 5mm in accordance to your suggestions?

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