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Old 07-25-2013, 12:20 AM   #19231
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Nearly done. Only mods are ABR speed gears (thanks monkeyracing!) and 3racing suspension arms.
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Old 07-25-2013, 05:53 AM   #19232
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Looking good
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:30 PM   #19233
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Questions?? M-04M Mini cooper body?

Hi there everyone.

I just recently picked up a M-04 from one of the guys at our track. I have been doing some research, and have yet to find an actually Mini Cooper body for this car (it is M-04M model, 225mm wheelbase). I currently have the Eunos Roadster body mounted on it. Also have an HPI Honda Civic waiting to be painted up and mounted. I just wanted to know if there were any actually Mini Cooper bodies that fit the 225mm, medium wheelbase.

Thanks again everyone,
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Old 07-26-2013, 03:01 AM   #19234
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I think you would have to convert it to LWB for the MINI Cooper to fit.
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Old 07-26-2013, 04:26 AM   #19235
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Nearly done. Only mods are ABR speed gears (thanks monkeyracing!) and 3racing suspension arms.
I remember when mine was that clean. LOL
Looks good!
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Old 07-26-2013, 04:28 AM   #19236
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Nearly done. Only mods are ABR speed gears (thanks monkeyracing!) and 3racing suspension arms.
What type of chassis is that???
Lookin Spiffy!
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Old 07-26-2013, 05:56 AM   #19237
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What type of chassis is that???
It's the M06R chassis.
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Old 07-27-2013, 01:55 AM   #19238
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Questions??

Hi all
So first night using my M05 last night at my indoor carpet track. I went quite well but would now like to discuss my findings. My car is equipped as follows

TRF shocks with 3 hole pistons, built as per instruction, 600cst oil in the front, 500cst in the rear, blue springs on the front, yellow on the rear, adjustable upper arms on the rear with a 1mm spacer in between, a 2mm spacer in between the front steering arms, M grip tyres all around (club rules allow standard or m grip 60d tyres) silver can motor with 20t pinion (club rules). The ride height is about 5 or 6mm. I also have the front suspension hanger that allows the shocks to be stood up. I use the outer hole.

I have the 3 racing alloy steering set up with the arms in the front holes, shimmed to be level at ride height, and a high torque servo saver. I haven't done the super glue trick on the edge of the front tyres but here's what I found. The car was quite sensitive with lots of steering, it wasn't uncontrollable but wasn't as forgiving as the M03 I used a couple of times a few weeks ago. I could turn my car on full lock flat out and it didn't roll, but it does 'tripod' and lift its rear wheel, it has that trying to stop itself turn in whilst lifting the rear wheel if you know what I mean. Guys at the club suggested the glue trick but I wonder if the car needs dropping further or more?

Good fun though, even if my lap times were 1 sec down from the battered, friction shock equipped M03 I used the other week........

One last thing, some guys used the O rings behind the shock pivot balls??

Thanks all!
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Old 07-27-2013, 03:05 AM   #19239
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Hi all
So first night using my M05 last night at my indoor carpet track. I went quite well but would now like to discuss my findings. My car is equipped as follows

TRF shocks with 3 hole pistons, built as per instruction, 600cst oil in the front, 500cst in the rear, blue springs on the front, yellow on the rear, adjustable upper arms on the rear with a 1mm spacer in between, a 2mm spacer in between the front steering arms, M grip tyres all around (club rules allow standard or m grip 60d tyres) silver can motor with 20t pinion (club rules). The ride height is about 5 or 6mm. I also have the front suspension hanger that allows the shocks to be stood up. I use the outer hole.

I have the 3 racing alloy steering set up with the arms in the front holes, shimmed to be level at ride height, and a high torque servo saver. I haven't done the super glue trick on the edge of the front tyres but here's what I found. The car was quite sensitive with lots of steering, it wasn't uncontrollable but wasn't as forgiving as the M03 I used a couple of times a few weeks ago. I could turn my car on full lock flat out and it didn't roll, but it does 'tripod' and lift its rear wheel, it has that trying to stop itself turn in whilst lifting the rear wheel if you know what I mean. Guys at the club suggested the glue trick but I wonder if the car needs dropping further or more?

Good fun though, even if my lap times were 1 sec down from the battered, friction shock equipped M03 I used the other week........

One last thing, some guys used the O rings behind the shock pivot balls??

Thanks all!
Try standard tyres on the front and M grips on the rear ... or ... worn M grips on the front and new M grips on the rear.

Try turning down your steering exponential on your radio to stop sensitivity on the steering
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Old 07-27-2013, 03:41 AM   #19240
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The O rings are just to take up any slop that may be in the ball joints. I used to run them but found that they put too much pressure on the joint causing it to pop off on heavy contact. Don't use them any more.

+1 on the expo, I've mine down by 20%
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Old 07-27-2013, 06:22 AM   #19241
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Thanks guys. Is the exponential speed? Or just sensitivity?
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Old 07-27-2013, 08:30 AM   #19242
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Thanks guys. Is the exponential speed? Or just sensitivity?
It's both. In some Tx nomenclature, it's called the steering curve. In most systems reducing the value by going to a negative number cuts down on the amount the servo will move around center, thus reducing the sensitivity around center. Of course that means the servo throw speeds up around the outer part of the servo movement.

Since I've been accused of being insensitive, rough, even rude, please note that none of the following is meant to offend. They are just my opinion and if they differ from anyone else's, please accept my apologies. Also, since my experience on carpet and with M-Grip tyres is limited, my observations are general ones that work on most track surfaces, but may not be applicable to your specific location.

I rarely use expo these days, cause all it does is mask a problem and doesn't cure it. Your car will remain a ill handling car. From your description of the handling of your car, rather than expo, you need to cut down on the servo travel and add some toe out. both will reduce your steering sensitivity. You will need to remove those spacers cause they are useless. You could reduce you ride height a bit and start playing with the ride height "rake". Generally, lowering the front will increase steering and raising will reduce it, that is referencing it to the rear ride height. You can also raise or lower the rear. The differential between the ride heights front and rear is what I call the "rake".

I tend to use much softer springs than you are using and lighter shock oils. I'm assuming you are using the Tamiya Mini springs. My standard set of springs are the #53333 Tamiya short touring car set. Usually a softer spring up front since this cuts down on steering sensitivity without introducing an understeering condition. Generally there is no need to run different shock oils front and rear and using the same shock oil will work 90+% of the time. Stiffer set ups tend to be quicker reacting and need a higher skill level to drive effectively.
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:35 AM   #19243
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That is so cool. Can't wait to try it. Going to order the parts and see if I can get it sorted out next Saturday.
Did you try the news shock positions Grandpa?
If so did you find it to be an improvement or was it a waste of time.
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Old 07-27-2013, 01:32 PM   #19244
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Thank you all, some useful info there. I had another look at my ride height and it's more than I thought, infact I slid a Bic biro pen underneath it and it cleared the chassis easily, the pen is prob 8mm. So I guess I'll drop it! The guys at the club recommended that I get the alloy front and rear hubs mostly for strength. I think I know what front set to get but what about the rear?
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Old 07-27-2013, 02:04 PM   #19245
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Did you try the news shock positions Grandpa?
If so did you find it to be an improvement or was it a waste of time.
No, not yet. This was to be a fall & winter project for a SWB M05 for carpet only. I am just gathering info and feedback from various sources and right now some of the parts are out of stock.

So far my most reliable or knowledgeable source, Tony Tam, believes that it will be more effective on the rear than up front. We both think that it should give a more stable platform that is less prone to traction roll. BUT, that's yet to be proven.

The project is in the "let's find a good base set up" phase. After that, we can play with this to see if it's an improvement.
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