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Old 06-17-2013, 12:21 PM   #19066
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I'm curious, why do you think adding weight to the car would help a traction roll problem?????
I was really thinking about getting it back to the point it was when it had a Nicad in it with some added weight down low. But in reality probably not much help with traction rolling.

Most of the traction rolls I had were when I backed off the throttle in the corners but did have one when I was on a sweeper and made a steering correction. I guess I would characterize most of them as snap rolls. It helped to slow down earlier into the corners but still got tippy at times. I had some other problems that limited my experimentation time on the track. The only change I made was the addition of the sway bars that seemed to help.
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:24 PM   #19067
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I had the exact same problems. 100 percent off the traction roll went away when I glued the side walls. I can now drive into a corner with 100 percent confidence again and can make quicker direction changes without worrying
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:55 PM   #19068
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I was really thinking about getting it back to the point it was when it had a Nicad in it with some added weight down low. But in reality probably not much help with traction rolling.

Most of the traction rolls I had were when I backed off the throttle in the corners but did have one when I was on a sweeper and made a steering correction. I guess I would characterize most of them as snap rolls. It helped to slow down earlier into the corners but still got tippy at times. I had some other problems that limited my experimentation time on the track. The only change I made was the addition of the sway bars that seemed to help.
Thanx for the response. You never know until you try it. Might help on a M03. Other than "The Shadow", who knows?

The new S-Grips are a curious tire with many undesirable characteristics. I cannot think of any reason to use them except when forced to by TCS rules.
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Old 06-17-2013, 03:44 PM   #19069
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Thanx for the response. You never know until you try it. Might help on a M03. Other than "The Shadow", who knows?

The new S-Grips are a curious tire with many undesirable characteristics. I cannot think of any reason to use them except when forced to by TCS rules.
Yes, I had seen your comments on them before I put them on so I wasn't totally surprised by what was happening. One of the experiments I was going to try if I had more time was to put the stock tires and wheels back on. It was pretty loose with them previously but I could drive it. It was quite a bit slower then than it is now however. Also thought about putting the stocks on the front first to see what that would do. Lots of possibilites. Just need to try one thing at a time. Very time consuming.
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Old 06-18-2013, 05:59 AM   #19070
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Please excuse the long post, but it's a complex subject.

I've had issues with the M03 traction rolling on various tyres.
The easiest fix for me is to change tyres or tyre compounds. My experience is that the front is the main problem for traction rolling, so go to a harder compound tyre or something with less grip.

Other solutions that can help:
-Keep the ride height at 4mm. Some people run 3mm on carpet if it's smooth enough.
-Run a lighter oil, 30wt all round with 3 hole pistons.
-Run softer springs.
-Run harder springs (yeah, I know it contradicts the previous statement but it's worked for me)
-Run your shocks slightly longer, around 56 - 57mm overall length can help.
-Use a different body - some bodies are quite tall and like to roll over, other bodies have hardly any clearance and can rub on the tyres which can lead to various handling problems, if you're using the 60D radials then use the Cooper S 2006 or Honda CR-X. Both of these bodies have plenty of room around the tyres and can be dumped down fairly low.
-Add weight to the car ... yes, ADD weight. When we first made the switch to lipos in Melbourne, most of us were traction rolling all over the place. Everything was the same apart from less weight due to the lipo. The rules here require a 1330gram minimum weight. So with an M03 using a lipo you have to add about 80-100grams of lead. Once this rule was brought in it settled most of the cars down. But with all the different tyres that came out with more grip the traction rolls started to happen again, so some people opt to run their minis even heavier. The guys who consistently finish in the top 3 are running all kinds of weights, some run their cars right on 1330grams, with the heaviest I've seen sitting on close to 1500grams!
-Play with track width, try 6mm hexes all round, or use the optional spacer set to add more width, up to 8mm, or try 4mm hexes front, 6mm rear or switch it the other way around. It's hard to say which will definitely work for your track conditions so you'll need to experiment.
-End point adjustment and steering rate. If you have these features on your transmitter you can use them to limit the amount of steering available and the speed of the steering. You can dial out the steering until it stops traction rolling .... but you might find your turning circle increases.
-Driving style. Some drivers like to just back off the throttle and turn into the corner, this can cause a traction roll. Try using the brakes. Come up to the corner, brake, then start your turn and get on the throttle. If you have just 1 or 2 corners on the track where you traction roll adjusting the point at which you brake or get on or off the throttle can stop the traction roll.

So, plenty of ideas for you there
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:33 AM   #19071
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Lots of ideas Tim K. Thanks. At least I'm not totally off thinking adding weight down low might help.

It was also pointed out to me by the guy who TQ'd that longer wheel based cars work best on our track and I did notice the three best handling and fastest cars were long wheel base.
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Old 06-19-2013, 02:41 PM   #19072
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True, weight is not always bad. Lead flashing in the bottom of the chassis an help plant the car. I added almost 200g to my M03 and it cornered beautifully. Unfortunately, on our short, technical course, it lagged as it lost a tiny bit of speed coming out of every corner. On a more flowing, open track, it would be brilliant.
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:04 PM   #19073
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I noticed on a setup for jiles, that he had a 25tooth pinion with a brushless motor..anyone know how that is possible.. we run 21.5 lipo in our minis..would love to put a 25 tooth pinion on my car..thanks
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:17 PM   #19074
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Soon to be newbie here in the m05 chassis. Am considering on buying a m05 s spec soon. i currently have a tt01e which i race at the local tamiya cup series we have.

Whats the best mini shell for racing? does it matter coz i really want a mini cooper 2006 hehehe but i see a lot of local racers use a suzuki swift as their race bodies or there isn't much difference?
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:42 PM   #19075
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I noticed on a setup for jiles, that he had a 25tooth pinion with a brushless motor..anyone know how that is possible.. we run 21.5 lipo in our minis..would love to put a 25 tooth pinion on my car..thanks
I believe that would have been an outlaw setup for one of the Thai races. They do some crazy stuff to the chassis. I've seen a 40t stuffed in an 05 from there.
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Old 06-20-2013, 12:06 AM   #19076
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so how do they do it?? and is it 48 pitch gears??
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Old 06-20-2013, 12:28 AM   #19077
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Lots of creative carving with a Dremel. They just hack out all the bits that get in the way.
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Old 06-20-2013, 08:35 AM   #19078
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Originally Posted by silverbmr View Post
Soon to be newbie here in the m05 chassis. Am considering on buying a m05 s spec soon. i currently have a tt01e which i race at the local tamiya cup series we have.

Whats the best mini shell for racing? does it matter coz i really want a mini cooper 2006 hehehe but i see a lot of local racers use a suzuki swift as their race bodies or there isn't much difference?
You can build the Mini with 3 different wheel bases---210, 225, 239mm. The 2006 Mini Cooper S is for the 239mm WB. The Suzuki Swift is for the 225mm WB. Both are good race bodies, just for different length chassis.

Isn't the M05 S Spec a 210mm kit????? Since I rarely even look at one of Tamiya's special edition kits, am not sure. Does it come with the aluminum steering bits?????

I still feel that the stock kit, with the body you want is the best way to go. Just add the ball bearings, a good pair of shocks and the aluminum steering. You can add the rest of the upgrades later.

Last edited by Granpa; 06-20-2013 at 08:37 AM. Reason: additi0n
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Old 06-20-2013, 01:01 PM   #19079
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The S comes as a 210, but with bits to change to other wbs. You just can't use the stock S rear aluminum chassis piece, but have to change to plastic for mwb and lwb.
Some minor aluminum steering bits.

Last edited by c-lyon; 06-20-2013 at 10:46 PM. Reason: Correction
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Old 06-21-2013, 08:09 AM   #19080
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Anybody been able to get ahold of one of the Volkswagen MK body's yet and tried it out?

George
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