Tamiya mini cooper
Anyone know why the M06 Pro is discontinued? I remember seeing it in stock not too long ago... same with the M05 Pro...
Tech Champion
iTrader: (136)
It's discontinued on the Tamiya site.
Tech Elite
Never understood the why for the M05 Pro. It was so much better to buy the stock kit then add our own selection of upgrades.
If the M06 Pro kit was anything like the M05 Pro, it did not have the "good" upgrades. My guess would be that they did a small run of these kits and sales were too slow to warrant another.
So far all the Pro versions of the current Minis were not a good value IMH0.
If the M06 Pro kit was anything like the M05 Pro, it did not have the "good" upgrades. My guess would be that they did a small run of these kits and sales were too slow to warrant another.
So far all the Pro versions of the current Minis were not a good value IMH0.
Thank you captain obvious.
Granpa, the big ones for me were the ball bearings and oil shocks. Was nice to have a bit of blue bling. Oddly enough, I never broke any of the clear shocks on my previous M06 Pro. Going to keep my eyes out, otherwise, may have to just bite the bullet and order a regular kit.
Granpa, the big ones for me were the ball bearings and oil shocks. Was nice to have a bit of blue bling. Oddly enough, I never broke any of the clear shocks on my previous M06 Pro. Going to keep my eyes out, otherwise, may have to just bite the bullet and order a regular kit.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
The M06Pro kit also had a lot of the good upgrades, including upgraded shocks (aluminum, not the claear plastic), bearings, and the highly sought after rear axle weights. Not quite perfect out of the box, but closer then a standard kit by leaps.
All of this is second hand, as I have an M05, but the M06 is very popular at the local track.
I think you mean the M06R. I knew it would be limited edition but wasn't too worried about that. The M06 Pro was available for the longest time (I originally bought my M05 Pro in early 2009, and my M06 Pro in mid 2011).
Sold both of them mainly because at my local track, the fixed gearing was a huge disadvantage. But now that I got high speed gears (thanks monkeyracing!), I'm in the market for a new M06 again. Don't want a used chassis though.
Sold both of them mainly because at my local track, the fixed gearing was a huge disadvantage. But now that I got high speed gears (thanks monkeyracing!), I'm in the market for a new M06 again. Don't want a used chassis though.
Tech Elite
Hello all mini guys I am selling the majority (not all ) of my mini stuff. And I have lots of it! What ever you need I more then likely have it from parts to full cars. If you want me to build a full car just let me know. It will be full race ready minus electronics and motor. In have several items that are discontinued just let me know what you need and I will give you a price. I am selling it very much lower then u can by on the web for. Tires, cars, parts, a few body's some esc's with silver can set ups etc. who and for the TCS guys I have several sets of 1-4 run premounted s grips. Good luck all talk to you later
He's selling his 2010 winning car, an M05M and the 2011 winning car, a M03M. He also has a lot of Deven Whites stuff. Deven was also a 2 time Nationals champ in Mini. Don't know all the details of all the stuff he has for sale, but it's a rare opportunity to pick up two proven race winners. Send him a PM cause they were priced pretty cheap for what they were.
And yes, it is possible to win the Nats twice in unusual circumstances.
Since this thread had slowed, I'd have to say after four sessions as a newbie with my M03, once dialed, mini's are super fun. Then again, everyone here already knows...
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
How soon do you guys rotate the tires? As often as possible to keep them all equally worn or what? Thx.
Always keep them on the same axle, rotate left to right as often as you feel necessary to even out the wear and get the most out of a set. swapping between race meetings should be more than often enough. i get hardly any wear on the tyres with the racing i do so it isn't something i worry about.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
M03s are fun! Off season sucks. Our last race was June 2. The next is July 14. I rotate tires left/right every few heats.
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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OK took my M03 to the track today with it's new Johnson motor, Tekin RS ESC and new S Grip premounts. These were all upgrades since the last race. Car was much faster however I had horrible traction roll. The asphalt had really good traction. Running 3Racing shocks with little or no rebound ,40W front 35W rear, blue Tamiya front springs and yellow rear. Sway bars were recommended so I installed them front a rear, (the large ones). Traction roll a little better but had to drive very carefully to avoid it. Also noticed a lot of outside rear wheel chattering coming out of turns maybe sway bar action.
The reading I've done on the subject so far has been TC focused where a lot more adjustments are available and opinions seem to be divided between softening the suspension or stiffening it as I did.
Softening seems to make more sense to me so the suspension takes up more of the roll before the tires have to start dealing with it but maybe that would actually induce more ultimate force on the tires.
I attribute most of the problem to the S Grip Premounts. I've seen comments indicating they are softer than previous with lots of sidewall flex.
These are my thoughts for a cure:
Lower ride height
Glue the front tire sidewall
Add more weight to the car.
Any thoughts?
The reading I've done on the subject so far has been TC focused where a lot more adjustments are available and opinions seem to be divided between softening the suspension or stiffening it as I did.
Softening seems to make more sense to me so the suspension takes up more of the roll before the tires have to start dealing with it but maybe that would actually induce more ultimate force on the tires.
I attribute most of the problem to the S Grip Premounts. I've seen comments indicating they are softer than previous with lots of sidewall flex.
These are my thoughts for a cure:
Lower ride height
Glue the front tire sidewall
Add more weight to the car.
Any thoughts?
I've yet to see a set of 3Racing shocks that work properly. Unless you got lucky and yours are Tamiya-smooth, bin them and get the real deal.
Most chattering sounds in my experience are due to a lack of droop and being under-damped. I always build the car with about 0.5mm-1mm of shock extension above ride height.
Arms level as ride height is a sound starting point, you can try running a little lower but I don't think you would ever want to run higher unless the track is very bumpy.
I don't find that glued sidewalls on the abrasive asphalt make much difference compared to the big difference they make on carpet but it might be worth trying.
I don't usually run bars outdoors but if I run them on carpet I stick to the softer one and just run it on the rear.
I don't see the point in adding weight. Makes the car slower everywhere.
As far as soft/hard settings to combat traction roll, it helps to work out what kind of traction roll you have.
If the car snaps into a roll at the start of a turn, then the weight transfer is too fast and the car is too hard - so soften it.
If the car gets up on it's side slowly and rolls mid-corner, the suspension is too soft - so stiffen it.
Just my thoughts, no doubt someone else on here has much better ones, hope they help.
Most chattering sounds in my experience are due to a lack of droop and being under-damped. I always build the car with about 0.5mm-1mm of shock extension above ride height.
Arms level as ride height is a sound starting point, you can try running a little lower but I don't think you would ever want to run higher unless the track is very bumpy.
I don't find that glued sidewalls on the abrasive asphalt make much difference compared to the big difference they make on carpet but it might be worth trying.
I don't usually run bars outdoors but if I run them on carpet I stick to the softer one and just run it on the rear.
I don't see the point in adding weight. Makes the car slower everywhere.
As far as soft/hard settings to combat traction roll, it helps to work out what kind of traction roll you have.
If the car snaps into a roll at the start of a turn, then the weight transfer is too fast and the car is too hard - so soften it.
If the car gets up on it's side slowly and rolls mid-corner, the suspension is too soft - so stiffen it.
Just my thoughts, no doubt someone else on here has much better ones, hope they help.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
depends on what tires you run... i run S-grips on all 4 sides... recently found that i can't keep the the tires on the same wheel for too long... front tires break-in a lot faster than the rears and end up grabbing on corner entry (at least that's what i felt). after running 3 heats, my car was all over the place... switched tires front to rear and it all was good after...
Tech Elite